Experts Share How to Do a Hot Oil Treatment for Hair at Home
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When your hair feels dry and frizzy, it’s hard to resist seeking a quick fix to restore its lustrous shine. Hair oiling benefits are not new—many have touted the benefits of rosemary oil and batana oil on strands. But what happens when you add some heat? Hot oil treatments for hair are thought to remedy everything from lackluster texture to hair growth, but experts have mixed opinions.
Meet the Experts: Yolanda Lenzy, M.D., F.A.A.D., a board-certified dermatologist and licensed cosmetologist who specializes in hair health; and Chaz Dean, celebrity hairstylist and founder of WEN haircare.
Ahead, a dermatologist and hair pro share whether or not these treatments are legit, its benefits, risks, and how to do a hot oil treatment for hair at home.
What is a hot oil treatment for hair?
“Hot oil treatments are not something new,” says Yolanda Lenzy, M.D., F.A.A.D., a board-certified dermatologist and licensed cosmetologist who specializes in hair health. “I used to do them a lot back when I was doing hair in the ’90s.”
Essentially, it consists of warming up your oil of choice (more on that below) and applying it to the scalp and/or strands, depending on what you want to accomplish. Oiling the scalp may help dislodge stuck-on product build-up before shampooing, whereas oil on the strands can help tame frizz and restore shine, says Chaz Dean, celebrity hairstylist and founder of WEN haircare.
Regardless of your approach, the oil should always be washed out after dwelling on damp or dry hair for a minimum of 30 minutes, per Davines Haircare. For frizziness, hot oil treatments are thought to best permeate clean hair, which means you should expect to shampoo twice—before oiling and after—if you go that route.
Best oil for hot oil hair treatment
Due to its low molecular weight, studies indicate that coconut oil successfully penetrates the hair shaft and prevents protein loss. However, that doesn’t mean you need to slather it on thick, Dr. Lenzy says, as it can be hard to wash out. She also recommends opting for alma oil and jojoba oil, as they “tend to be a little bit lighter.”
Hot oil treatments for hair benefits
The benefits of hot oil treatments vary depending on your hair needs and goals.
When Dr. Lenzy administered the treatment years ago, the benefit of heating the oil was to, presumably, help it better penetrate the hair shaft. “Now I know a lot of this is not proven,” Dr. Lenzy says. In other words, there is no research to confirm that heating oil improves its permeability.
But, hot oil treatments for hair may:
Yield soft, shiny strands
Oil is an emollient, meaning it can make tresses soft and shiny if not overused.
Lock in moisture
Dean adds that hot oil treatments can reset dry, frizzy strands—especially those that have taken a beating from weather or hot tools—so by sealing the hair cuticle. This locks in whatever moisture it does have, which may help prevent strand breakage and maintain existing hair length. It can also just... feel nice.
Boost blood flow to scalp
You may have heard that hot oil treatments benefit hair growth, but there is no research to support that it does so directly. Research shows that certain oils may boost blood circulation, which in turn may stimulate scalp hair follicles. But again, more research is needed here.
Help with plaque psoriasis symptoms
Pre-wash scalp oiling can be especially beneficial if you have plaque psoriasis, Dr. Lenzy says, which is an autoimmune condition that causes dry, itchy, raised patches of skin called plaques. “Many times, it’s very difficult to get the scales off of the scalp. People can shampoo two, three times and the scales are still there,” she says. “Oil treatment can be very beneficial to really help dislodge those scales from the scalp and allow the shampooing to be more effective.”
Remove product buildup
Similarly, the scalp oil method can also help soften build-up from hair products (which is different from dandruff) and make shampooing a bit easier.
Hot oil treatments for hair risks
Aside from the fact that putting hot oil on your hair can burn you, especially if you heat it too thoroughly, there are other ways hair oiling can be harmful, Dr. Lenzy says. It all depends on your hair type and the health of your scalp.
For example, scalp conditions like dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis, a type of inflammation that results in flaking and a rash, can actually be worsened by oils, Dr. Lenzy adds. Dandruff is caused by excess yeast: “You apply oil, that actually feeds the yeast and causes it to overgrow,” she says.
Oiling your hair too frequently can also weigh it down, cause greasiness, and make it repel water, Dr. Lenzy explains. Oil and water don’t mix, and when there’s too much in your hair, it can block strands from drinking up the hydrators in your shampoo and conditioner (i.e. water, glycerin, hyaluronic acid). “The remedy is really to shampoo it—really get the dirt and oils off so that water can really enter the shaft,” she says.
Lastly, especially if you have sensitive skin, some oils may cause irritation. So it’s always a good idea to perform a patch test on an inconspicuous area of skin before applying it to your head.
Best hair types for hot oil treatments
The people most likely to benefit from hot oil treatments for hair are those with textured natural hair—specifically, those with coily, curly hair. This is because those hair types have a high porosity, which means they quickly absorb and lose water, often leaving them feeling dry and frizzy.
Who should avoid hot oil treatment for hair
On the flip side, “people with really fine hair obviously need to be careful with a lot of things that will weigh their hair down,” says Dr. Lenzy. And then, as previously mentioned, people with inflammatory scalp conditions should consult a dermatologist before proceeding with a hot oil treatment.
How to apply hot oil treatment at home
If you want to try a hot oil treatment, Dr. Lenzy recommends doing so at a salon, where stylists know how to apply the oil correctly without burning the scalp. To safely apply oil at home, you can do so straight from the room-temperature bottle to your strands and scalp before shampooing. “I don’t think the heating of it makes a huge difference,” she says.
If you’re still super curious about warming up the oil, Dean says you can do the following:
Put oil in a heat-safe jar and give it a warm bath in a saucepan on the stove.
Test the oil’s temperature on your wrist: “It should be just warm enough to feel soothing,” he says.
Using a dropper or squeeze bottle, apply it to strands or scalp.
Let it sit for 30 minutes.
Shampoo and condition hair to remove oil.
If you aim to soften scalp buildup, you can apply the oil to dirty hair. If you want to treat frizz, slather it onto clean strands.
How often to apply hot oil treatments for hair
Both Dean and Dr. Lenzy say hot oil treatments can be done on an as-needed basis. “If your hair is feeling extra dry or looking frizzy, then it is time,” says Dean. Dr. Lenzy adds that, if you’re oiling to resolve build-up, you can use it every time you wash your hair until your scalp feels squeaky clean.
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