Local gardens, Rochester Farmers Market see the return of rhubarb

May 22—You can count on it. As soon as the weather starts to warm up, even just a little, rhubarb pushes it's way up out of the ground. Of everything grown in home gardens, it's among the most reliable, resilient and usually one of the first things we harvest and cook/bake with.

The season is pretty short, from May to mid-June, though there are those who push its harvest into July. While it is still very good then, the stalks aren't as tender as they are now. So, when you see it these next few weeks, cut or buy the stalks and make those family favorites.

Anyone for strawberry-rhubarb pie this weekend?

Rhubarb is one of those fruits that folks either like or don't. Because it is so tart, it does need sugar to make it palatable. Others don't care for the texture and stringiness once it's cooked. Most of us automatically think of strawberry-rhubarb pie when we see it in the garden or the market, a natural combination because they ripen about the same time. A similar pairing combines rhubarb with raspberries, also a winner. Its popularity as an ingredient in pies is why ages ago it was referred to as "pie plant."

Over the years home cooks and chefs have become more creative in using this spring staple. A rhubarb jam combined with other fruits, usually berries, is a favorite on toast. Rhubarb muffins and rhubarb breads have been around, but they too are getting updates. How about rhubarb chutney or salsa. What about braising meats like short ribs with a little rhubarb sauce? Bartenders are even using rhubarb juice as a cocktail ingredient.

Rhubarb might also be called a "forever plant," one of those that come back year after year. There are even gardeners who have sections of their grandmothers plants that are at least 30 years old and still producing stalks. As a general rule however they can produce up to 20 years if well taken care of and in their own area of the garden.

A couple who knows all about this are Glen and Judy Mitchell of Pine Island who have two prolific plants.

"These came from Glen's family farm years ago," says Judy. "Originally a cutting went with us to New York, and thrived. Each time we moved we took a cutting or dug up a section. We've been on this acreage for over 50 years and it still grows like crazy. Because of the drought last year, the plants struggled a bit, but this year they're making up for it."

In fact the Mirchells can barely keep up, so some is frozen and the rest they generously give away. (I was lucky to be a recipient.) She does use it as a baking ingredient but mostly pies and desserts she says. The leaves are said to be poisonous so cut them off and compost them. Interestingly, to be affected by them you'd have to consume pounds.

Like so many of our foods, rhubarb has a very long history. It arrived here in the late 1700s having been first sent from Europe as seeds to a Maine gardener. Its early harvest and growing popularity made it spread quickly and within 25 years it was a regular at all the early farmers markets. Today it still is.

1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1-1/4 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature

2/3 cup light brown sugar, packed

1 egg plus 1 yolk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup white chocolate chips

1 cup walnuts, roughly chopped

1-1/2 stalks rhubarb cut in small pieces

1 tablespoon sea salt

Whisk flour. salt, baking soda and baking powder together in a large bowl. Beat the butter and brown sugar together with a mixer until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add egg and yolk, then the vanilla. Reduce speed to low. Add dry ingredients and beat until combined, about 1 minute. Fold in white chocolate chips and walnuts, then the rhubarb. Cover bowl and refrigerate for at least an hour or overnight. Preheat oven to 375. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment. Form dough into balls, place on cookie. sheet, sprinkle each top with a little sea salt. Bake until golden around the edges but still soft in the middle, 14 minutes. Let cool on sheet a few minutes, then transfer to cooling rack.

1/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons salt, more as needed

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

Freshly ground pepper 5 lbs, bone-in short ri bs

2 cups medium diced rhubarb

2 large yellow onions, thinly sliced

1 head garlic, peeled and smashed

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup rhubarb jam

2 cups chicken broth

Add the sugar, salt, fennel seeds, allspice and black pepper to a small bowl and mix together. Rub the short ribs with the mixture, place in a container, cover, and refrigerate overnight. Preheat oven to 475. Add onions, rhubarb and garlic to a medium roasting pan and drizzle with olive oil. Place short ribs on the bed of onions and rhubarb. Bake until the tops of meat begins to brown, about 20 minutes. Lower heat to 325. Add jam in small dollops to tops of meat. Add chicken broth (should reach halfway up ribs. Add water if necessary.) Cover pan with foil or lid and bake until meat is fall-off-the-bone tender, about 2-1/2 to 3 hours. Remove meat to a platter and place pan on stovetop and bring liquid to a boil. Lower to simmer and let thicken. Season to taste. Ladle sauce on top of short ribs and serve.

Caramel Topping

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1/2 cup sugar

1-1/2 cups rhubarb, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1-1/2 cup strawberries, hulled and thinly sliced

1 tablespoon cornstarch

2 tablespoons strawberry jam

Salt

Cake

1-3/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup milk

1/4 cup sour cream

1 stick butter, unsalted, room temperature

1 cup sugar

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Grease a 9x9 cake pan on bottom only. Stir the sugar and 1/3 cup water together in a medium saucepan over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Cool, not stirring, but gently swirl the pan until mixture is amber, 6-8 minutes. Take off heat and carefully whisk in the butter. Watch out because it will sputter. Pour the caramel into the pan, tilting so it covers the bottom. Toss fruit with the cornstarch, jam and a pinch of salt. Spoon on top of the caramel layer and smooth into an even layer. Set aside. For the cake, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a bowl. In another bowl, whisk together the milk and sour cream. Beat together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, 4 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, beating after each, then add vanilla. Add the flour, alternating with the milk mixture. Pour the batter over the rhubarb and strawberry mixture and spread evenly. Bake until cake is golden brown on top, 55-60 minutes. Run a knife around the edge to separate from pan. Cool about 45 minutes, then carefully invert upside down onto a platter. Cool completely.

Post Bulletin food writer Holly Ebel knows what's cookin'. Send comments or story tips to life@postbulletin.com .