I’m a Black traveler who reviews popular destinations. Here's what I want others to know
In 2013, I was so excited to cross the Atlantic for the first time to study abroad in Florence, Italy, as an American student. I expected the same country Hollywood told me was the land of romance, passion and pizza.
Instead, I got ignored by locals when I asked for directions, and noticed they avoided me on the street. I was often either regarded with what felt like disgust or called by the name of famous Black women I look nothing like. I witnessed locals watch as my friend was assaulted by a man, who I punched in the arm so he would let her go — and they continued to do nothing as he threw beer at us and called us “disgusting Black women.”
This couldn’t be the same Italy that Hollywood showed me, I thought. But unfortunately, in my experience, it was.
As I traveled around the country during my semester abroad, I learned three important lessons. First: Being Black means my experiences are not only different from others living in the United States, but also in countries around the world. Second: Anti-Blackness is not just an American issue. And finally? Black people and people of color need to be aware that the travel narratives shown in the media are often told through a white lens.
The first time I publicly addressed my negative experience in Italy was in 2018, when I wrote an essay for The New York Times.
After it was published, I received messages, comments and responses from people around the world. Many used racist insults, called me naive for not knowing the realities of life abroad or denied the existence of racism in Italy altogether. But it was the outpouring of messages from those sharing their own negative experiences in Italy and other countries — readers who were thankful to finally see someone talking about the issue — that hit me the hardest.
It became apparent to me that there was a void in travel education that addressed the safety of travelers from underrepresented groups, and there was a need for this information to be amplified. As terrible as my experience was in Italy, I didn’t let that stop me from exploring new countries for fun. In the last nine years, I've traveled to Tokyo, where I lived out all my childhood anime dreams and ate some of the most Instagrammable food; Mexico City, where I started my Spanish immersion; Prague, where I had a wonderful time taking in the upscale scene without the upscale price; and Colombia, the country that stole my heart. And as I went around the world, I was taking mental notes of how I was being treated.
While I didn’t want to be pigeonholed as “the girl who hates Italy,” I could never fully pull myself away from the topic.
I felt compelled to say something in August 2022 when a Black Nigerian man in Italy was killed in broad daylight while others stood by, The Associated Press reported. While xenophobia toward African migrants in Italy is well documented and may have played a role in this case, racism and anti-immigrant sentiment can often go hand in hand as it’s difficult to tell members of the African diaspora apart. That means skin color or other Afro-centric characteristics can be the main determinant of who is discriminated against.
In mid-2023, I decided to make my TikTok more focused on helping Black people and people of color feel confident and safe in their travel plans. In December, I shared my first official travel review of Marrakech, Morocco. Since then, I’ve posted several others and started sharing them on my Instagram as well.
When it comes to my travel reviews, I give ratings from 1-10. I start with things to do and any positive encounters surrounding my experience, unless the trip was sullied by negative situations — in that case, I’ll take ample time to explain those encounters. My reviews are based on my personal experiences, or from what I have learned from other Black travelers and travelers of color who have traveled to the area, plus other research. I share my rating at the very end, and if necessary, I explain what impacted the score. If, in my experience, an area treats Black travelers and travelers of color generally fine and has a lot of things to do, I’ll most likely give it a rating of 7 or above. However, a low rating doesn’t necessarily mean the country isn’t a safe space for Black travelers and travelers of color; the rating could also be due to lack of activities, like I explain in my review of Grand Turk.
It’s important to note that my experiences and opinions could be vastly different from others' experiences, depending on a number of factors. I never want to encourage anyone to let racism or prejudice stop them from seeing the world, and thankfully, resources like Green Book Global now exist to help prepare travelers for trips abroad — with a mission similar to that of the monumental Green Book, which sought to prepare Black travelers in the Jim Crow era for journeys across the United States by providing information on safe places.
When you're a Black traveler or traveler of color, being unprepared for how to move or what to expect when going abroad can lead to physical or emotional harm. I want to do what I can to keep us safe and help others be better informed than I was a decade ago.
So, if you are a Black person or person of color interested in travel and want to know which cities might be the most welcoming, here are my suggestions on where to go — and where to exercise caution:
Most welcoming: Colombia
Where to stay:
Cartagena
Cali
Bogotá
Santa Marta
Barranquilla
Chocó
Things to do:
Taste the delicious local and international food options.
Dance the night away at a disco or salsa club.
Experience nature.
Paraglide over the scenic landscape.
View the art scene.
Take a day trip to an island getaway.
Visit the historic village of San Basilio de Palenque, which was founded by escaped slaves.
Experience the Black culture and history.
Visit Valle de Cocora (the place that inspired the setting for the film "Encanto").
Check out the museums and beautiful colonial architecture.
What Black travelers and travelers of color should know:
Colombia is by far my favorite country to visit, with Medellin and Cartagena being my favorite cities. I’ve met travelers of different races who have only had good things to say overall, and Blackness is not only welcomed here — it’s celebrated in some ways. You can see it in the locals’ artwork, and I was once told by an artist in Cartagena that Black women were la moda, which means “the fashion” in Spanish. I’ve never felt so appreciated as a Black woman as I do when I’m in Colombia; I’m never stared at, asked for photos and treated like a spectacle or criminal. However, commenters have told me that my positive experiences could be because I’m from the U.S. After doing some research, I learned of the racial tension and violence toward Black Colombians, and how the experience for Afro-Colombians who grew up here is very different. But because there is a variety of Black people in Colombia, I feel that I blend in pretty well until I speak. Even in silent interactions, I’ve felt welcomed.
Surprising observations:
While Colombia has a history of violence and drugs, notably during the time of the infamous drug lord Pablo Escobar, I felt safe in this country, especially in its major cities. In Medellín, locals told me they actively fight against the negative reputation with the equivalent of “neighborhood watch” groups, who are ready to put a stop to any foul play. But as with any country, you should exercise caution: Try not to stand out as a tourist, avoid wearing expensive clothes or jewelry and use street smarts to avoid being robbed or pickpocketed.
Most welcoming: Prague
Where to stay:
Near the Vltava River
The Old Town
Things to do:
Tour the Old Town.
Cross the Charles Bridge.
Visit Prague Castle.
Watch the hour change on the astronomical clock attached to the Old Town Hall.
Go to St. Vitus Cathedral and St. George’s Basilica.
See the historic Jewish Quarter, also known as Josefov.
Go during the holidays to witness the Christmas market in the city center.
What Black travelers and travelers of color should know:
I’ve been to this central European country twice and I’ve had no issues both times. I’ve rarely felt uncomfortable and people are incredibly kind. While I often feel like I'm one of only three Black people in the city, I'm never stared at. This isn’t to say racism doesn’t exist here, but the displays aren’t as overt as other countries, from what I’ve witnessed. Whenever I’ve talked about Prague in my videos, I’ve rarely seen a response from a person of color who had a bad experience.
Surprising observations:
While Prague felt fancy and expensive, especially in the Old Town, it was generally affordable. Even some of the more sophisticated dining options weren’t overly priced.
Most welcoming: Caribbean
Where to stay:
Trinidad
Jamaica
Puerto Rico
Aruba
Antigua
Barbados
Providenciales, Turks and Caicos
Things to do:
Engage in aquatic sports.
Take in the surrounding nature.
Go horseback riding.
Take an ATV tour.
Learn about indigenous and colonial history.
Relax on the shores.
Party (especially during the Carnival seasons).
Try unique cuisine influenced by a mix of cultures including African, indigenous, European and Asian.
What Black travelers and travelers of color should know:
The Caribbean is often a go-to destination to relax, and people of all races regularly travel here. I usually have a good experience when I’m in the Caribbean because you can rarely go wrong when you have amazing weather and good food. I’ve never personally experienced or witnessed any negative encounters, but as someone of Caribbean descent, I know that you might find anti-Black American sentiment, colorism or microaggressions against people of other races, and anti-Black racism in general. I’ve been warned by my family not to stay out in the sun before I get too dark, heard the stereotypical assumptions made about Black Americans shared by some in the Caribbean community and have had to correct people for using words like “Chiney” or “Chinese” to refer to any East Asian person. I’ve also heard others casually use an anti-Asian slur, often used against those of Indian descent, when referring to South and East Asian people.
Surprising observations:
When land in the Caribbean is purchased, locals might become unable to use formerly public areas, like beaches, as they turn into private property. However, I learned that Barbados prohibits people from privatizing beaches, with the Barbados tourist board stating that “all beaches in Barbados are open to the public and access to them is considered a right of every Barbadian.” Maybe you could be swimming next to Barbadian singer Rihanna one of these days.
Most welcoming: West Africa
Where to stay
Accra, Ghana
Kumasi, Ghana
Ada Foah, Ghana
Lagos, Nigeria
Abuja, Nigeria
Cape Verde
Cotonou, Benin
Grand Popo, Benin
Things to do
Learn about the history of the transatlantic slave trade and the harrowing journey enslaved people took on ships bound for the Americas.
Take in the natural sites.
Tour the markets.
Go to an Afrobeats party.
Lay out on the beach or enjoy some water activities.
Go on a safari tour.
Check out the local art.
Experience a festival celebration.
Learn about the traditions of voodoo.
Immerse yourself in the distinct cultures.
What Black travelers and travelers of color should know
I’ve heard from other travelers that their visits to West Africa are usually a positive experience. Unfortunately, I’ve never been because most of my trips so far have been self-funded and flights to West Africa are too expensive for my budget (I usually never pay more than $500 for a round-trip flight). But parts of the region are known to have issues with colorism and anti-Black American sentiment that is the result of years of strife between Africans and African Americans.
Least welcoming: Italy
Why Black travelers and travelers of color should be weary
I won’t beat a dead horse on this one. While Italy is a beautiful country with good food and interesting history, it’s the place I recommend the most caution with to all Black travelers and travelers of color. While some people go there and have no issues, there are many who share a similar experience to my own, including the feelings of disgust from locals and poor treatment. In addition to Italy’s problem with racism being heavily covered in the news, it’s one of the countries I hear most about from travelers when it comes to overt displays of racism against Black and Asian people. If you’re going to visit here, be prepared.
Least welcoming: Spain
Why Black travelers and travelers of color should be weary
Like Italy, I’ve had enough issues in Spain that I’m not very interested in visiting the country again. I’ve been at a restaurant where I was one of two people of color in the section I was in and we were both ignored, watched as people avoided sitting next to me on the metro only to sit next to a white person as soon as the chance arrived and have observed people reluctantly take my photos when asked, as if they’d rather not touch my phone or interact with me, among other issues. I also know some Latin American people have negative experiences in Spain attributed to stereotypes and anti-Latin American sentiment. For me, the best part about Spain is the ability to get cheaper flights to North Africa.
Least welcoming: China
Why Black travelers and travelers of color should be weary
Anti-Black racism in China is well documented, and came to the forefront during the height of the pandemic when African immigrants were discriminated against and accused of carrying the virus, as reported by many outlets, including NBC News. But even before the pandemic, Black travelers in particular have expressed feeling like a spectacle when visiting major tourist destinations in China. Thankfully, when I visited Beijing, I had a good time and it almost felt like people didn’t notice me with my sister (who is also Black), perhaps because we were with a Chinese guide. When looking up experiences or speaking to Black travelers who have been to China, I’ve rarely come across incidents that are worse than them getting started at or having photos taken of them. But given the clear anti-Black sentiment in the country, I suggest preparing yourself for anything.
This article was originally published on TODAY.com
