Watch: Jamie O'Brien Gets Incredibly Barreled Surfing Famous Fijian Wave
The North Shore's Jamie O'Brien was raised right at Pipeline where he still resides.
Although he wakes up every morning to some of the world's best waves, it doesn't stop him from chasing waves all over the world.
So while his home break is overrun with pro surfers in town to compete, O'Brien chased a swell to Fiji to escape the chaos.
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O'Brien's latest vlog above is the second episode from his Fijian surf trip with fellow pro surfer, Ian Gentil.
He captioned it:
"Heavy Cloudbreak session with a few surfers out."
In the first episode, they surf not-quite-perfect Cloudbreak, Tavarua's famed lefthand reef break.
This time, Cloudbreak's big enough to bust out jet skis.
"It's kinda really good size, it's not too big, it's just about right," O'Brien says. "We're about to paddle out. It is on this morning."
They surf, they score, they pay their dues.
Eventually, O'Brien's beat and climbs into the boat, saying:
"Catching cramps just got caught inside like eighty times. But leash held up, board is still in one piece."
Meanwhile, Gentil didn't get any waves, got pushed into the reef, busted up his board, and climbed back into the boat.
Later on, the waves get better and they surf again and they score.
Post-session, J.O.B. recaps:
"Oh my god, wow. Incredible, that's why you come here. That's why we put in all the hard work, got caught inside a million times."
He says he got a "tricky" wave that slammed him right into the reef.
But it doesn't matter, it's all worth it.
"That's what life's all about, seeing the big storm chasing it across the world and making it happen," he says.
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