The Ultimate Milan Restaurant Guide
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Rome has the Colosseum, Florence has the Ponte Vecchio, and Venice has its winding canals. And while Milan has long been an overlooked city when it comes to tourism, it too is bursting out of the woodwork as of late. “In the past, I didn’t go out of my way to visit Milan,” says Kathy McCabe, host of Dream of Italy on PBS and founder of Dream of Italy Magazine. “I felt that the big three—Rome, Florence, Venice—had more depth and were more of a sensory experience. But recently, I stand corrected.” For McCabe, the city has since come to terms with its cosmopolitan core. In fashion and design, yes. But also in food.
“The once-sleepy restaurant scene in Milan has recently been shaken up with the opening of tons of new restaurants dotted all over the city,” shares Eric Egan of L’Artigianato, a Milan-based interior design studio. Egan is one of many designers who have made the annual trek to Milan ahead of the industry’s design Mecca, Salone del Mobile, which is in full force this week. And for most of its participants, the design events are only half the reason to come. If anything is worth traveling halfway across the world for, it's a sizzling plate of “transcendent fettuccine with triple butter” (in the words of Italy-based food writer Katie Parla) at Michelin-starred Trippa, or maybe a sultry bite of saffron-tinted risotto from Ratanà, something McCabe has dubbed the official dish of Milan. Is your mouth watering yet?
Whether you’ve come ready to carbo-load or are sticking to more minimalist dishes, there’s something for everyone in this foodie haven. Make the most of your Design Week visit, or any trip to the Fashion Capital of the World, and harness those la dolce vita vibes, starting with our must-visit list of restaurants, food stalls, and bakeries in Milan. Read on for expert picks from travel professionals, food writers, and design enthusiasts.
Trippa
Katie Parla, a notable Italy-based food writer and three-time cookbook author, has a few favorite Milanese restaurants. And in her humble opinion, Trippa stands out from the crowd. “Book well in advance at this neo-trattoria that, even seven years in, remains one of the toughest reservations in town,” Parla says. “Though the name promises tripe, there’s so much more than offal on the menu, including a transcendent fettuccine with triple butter,” she adds. Trippa is also a Michelin-starred spot! According to the famous guide, try house specialties like Milanese risotto with grilled marrow, vitello tonnato, and of course, tripe in this old-school eatery.
Macelleria Popolare
Another Parla pick is Macelleria Popolare. “Though not a restaurant in the traditional sense—Macelleria Popolare is a butcher stall with a kitchen in the Ticinese Market—you’ll be hard-pressed to find meat that is more expertly fried, braised, roasted, and grilled. Anywhere,” she holds. This food stall offers grass-fed beef items, like panini, kabobs, meatballs, and beyond.
Antica Trattoria della Pesa
One of Milan’s most historic spots is Antica Trattoria della Pesa, which has embraced regional cuisine since 1880. “In the tile-and-wood-accented inner sanctum of this historic trattoria, choose simplicity with the austere risotto al salto, a rice patty crisped in butter, or luscious and luxurious saffron-tinted risotto alla milanese with osso buco,” Parla suggests.
Cantina Piemontese
CEO and co-owner of textile company Dedar Milano Caterina Fabrizio says she enjoys Cantina Piemontese for its intimate, classic vibes, fantastic wine cellar, and petite garden. “It’s a lesser-known restaurant to go to if you’re looking to make a discovery,” Fabrizio adds. Try classics like risotto al Castelmagno, torretta cuore di bue, ravioli del plin, tartare di Fassona, or tajarìn al brucio. Elevate your meal with some of the over 600 wines available at this centrally located gem.
10_11 at Portrait
Fabrizio also enjoys the restaurant at the Portrait Hotel, 10_11. “Since I get to see the Dedar fabrics there, I feel at home,” she says. Her go-to lunch order? Pasta in bianco, or white pasta, is a simple Italian comfort food made with pasta, butter, and Parmigiano Reggiano. Portrait’s version utilizes the rinds to boost the rich, nutty cheese flavor.
Il Baretto Milano
For classic Italian food, lunch or dinner seven days a week, consider Il Baretto Milano. “There has recently been the reopening of a great classic in the city: Il Baretto Milano,” Fabrizio says. Enjoy the eatery’s pretty outdoor seating or cozy tartan interior while noshing on traditional dishes like osso bucco, gamberi e mammole, and riso al salto. We won’t say no.
Marchesi 1824
You can mention food in Italy only if you consider the pastry side of things. Milan excels in this realm, with Marchesi being a favorite of Fabrizio’s. “Walking around, you always see a Marchesi pastry shop,” she explains. “My favorite is the one on Corso Magenta, Marchesi 1824.” Sample her regular snack, a slice of Aurora cake, plus coffee, candies, chocolates, and other baked goods. Brandon Berkson, founder of Hotels Above Par, also loves the plum cake and croissants. “This might be touristy, but each time I return to Milan, I grab a pastry and espresso at Marchesi 1824,” he says.
Vesta Fiori Chiari
Berkson also recommends Vesta Fiori Chiari in Brera, which the travel pro describes as “a swish seafood restaurant with a striking entrance—an angle-varied marble staircase and open-air bar that’s perfect for summertime Aperol spritzes.” Housed in the former church of San Carpoforo and crafted by architect Stefano Belingardi Clusoni, the charming space is the prime backdrop to enjoy the establishment’s delectable raw bar and main courses like veal fillet and sea bass.
Ratanà
For McCabe, ofDream of Italy on PBS, there’s no better dish in Milan than saffron risotto. “Riso all zafferano is perhaps the official dish of Milan, and the best of the best is likely chef Cesare Battisti’s at Ratanà,” she says. Ratanà is another Michelin Guide restaurant known for its breezy outdoor area, high-quality ingredients, and unique building. Fun fact: It’s housed in a former cinema.
a Santa Lucia
“Lately, I have been going back toa Santa Lucia, a wonderful Neopolitan trattoria just off of Corso Vittorio Emmanuele near the Duomo,” shares designer Eric Egan of L’Artigianato. “This place was last big in the 1980s, and nothing has changed since then.” Note the daily rotating menu posted on a large chalkboard in the main room. Try the linguine with clams, Caprese salad, and traditional pizzas for a taste of southern Italy in the country’s northern reaches.
For more Milan travel inspiration, check out the ever fashionable Valentina Ciuffi’s guide to the city: where to eat, shop and sleep here.
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