These Skincare Products Are Scientifically Proven to Make You Look Younger
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IMAGINE A MOISTURIZER that works with your genetics to reduce cancer risk. Or a serum that communicates with your skin cells to keep collagen pumping. That may sound Blade Runner-y, but the next wave of products that will revolutionize your grooming routine is either hitting shelves now or really close. “We are moving toward changing how we age by reversing what happens to our cells,” says Julie Russak, M.D., a New York–based dermatologist. We asked experts about the four game-changers in grooming—and what it all means for the future of your face.
Exomes
How They Work
These nanoparticles allow skin cells to communicate with one another. “They are the active component of stem cells and tell the cell what to do,” says Los Angeles-based plastic surgeon Jason Diamond, M.D. “They’re an important part of the body repairing itself” because they carry proteins, lipids, and growth factors from cell to cell, he explains.
The Promise
Some skincare brands claim their exosome-targeting serums improve cell-to-cell communication. This results in enhanced collagen and elastin production, processes that battle wrinkles, among other effects of aging.
The Science
Still developing. There aren’t many studies on exosomes and “none looking at them in humans,” says Evan Rieder, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City. Yet some manufacturers are running with their claims—despite the fact that no FDA-approved exosome products are currently on the market.
The Products
Exoso-Metic Eye Serum
bluemercury.com
$435.00
Apply it around your eyes and the exosomes and growth factors in the formula may help reduce signs of aging, like fine lines.
Daily Serum
platedskinscience.com
$268.00
This daily topical has Renewosome—a platelet-derived exosome—and a growth factor complex.
Epigenetics
How it Works
Scientists have known for decades that everyone has their own genetic code. Now they’re turning to epigenetics, the study of how environmental and behavioral factors affect certain genes. The hope is that this may reveal how to switch to a gene that, for example, predisposes you to skin cancer.
The Promise
The Australian-based skincare brand Rationale uses a cheek swab to test your genetic makeup and then curates a routine for your unique skin. By examining certain markers, such as how well your skin responds to antioxidants, the company says it ensures that its customers use only the most effective products.
The Science
Promising, but not there yet. “Skincare brands aren’t allowed to say that anything is working on a genetic level,” says Dr. Rieder. (The FDA would have to clear it.)
The Product
#2 The Serum
neimanmarcus.com
$176.00
This company’s genetic testing determines which of its products, like this vitamin C serum, will be most helpful for you and your skin.
Biomimetics
How it Works
Your skin, operating as a defense system, can sometimes mistake the active ingredient in a product for a pathogen and block it from being absorbed. Biomimetic ingredients are lab developed but mimic natural ones, like collagen, that your skin recognizes, allowing the good stuff in.
The Promise
Since your body easily identifies these ingredients, it knows how to use them. Plus, because they’re synthetic, skincare brands can “develop ingredients in a more ethical and sustainable manner,” says Ron Robinson, a cosmetic chemist and the founder of BeautyStat.
The Science
It’s already here, with solid research behind synthetic growth factors.
The Products
Dr. Diamond’s Metacine InstaFacial Plasma
drdiamondsmetacine.com
$200.00
This serum contains biomimetics and a line-smoothing neuropeptide.
Pro Collagen Banking Serum
amazon.com
$89.00
It has biomimetic amino acids for collagen production and a peptide/enzyme combo to preserve existing collagen.
Artificial Intelligence
How it Works
AI-assisted molecule discovery is helping scientists find new ingredients for skin and hair care that could work better and have fewer side effects.
The Promise
More and better ingredients. Evan Zhao, Ph.D., chief science officer at Oddity Labs, says his team uses AI to comb through millions of molecules to unearth those most beneficial for skincare.
The Science
Also promising. AI-assisted molecule discovery has been used in pharmaceutical development for a few years. Dr. Russak says AI could even lead to the ability to regrow dying hair follicles.
Neuropeptides: The Next Generation
Peptides act as signaling molecules that can produce collagen and repair damage. Studies have shown that a new kind, called neuropeptides, can tell your face muscles to relax, which smooths wrinkles almost as well as Botox.
The Product
Peptide Wrinkle Relaxing Moisturizer
beautystat.com
$72.00
It contains two different neuropeptides—and moisturizes, too.
This article originally appears in the March/April 2024 issue of Men's Health.
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IMAGINE A MOISTURIZER that works with your genetics to reduce cancer risk. Or a serum that communicates with your skin cells to keep collagen pumping. That may sound Blade Runner-y, but the next wave of products that will revolutionize your grooming routine is either hitting shelves now or really close. “We are moving toward changing how we age by re- versing what happens to our cells,” says Julie Russak, M.D., a New York– based dermatologist. We asked experts about the four game-changers in grooming—and what it all means for the future of your fac
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