How to Shop for Antique and Vintage Jewelry at Flea Markets, According to Experts

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There’s perhaps no greater find than a flea market find. Across the globe, from the Cours Saleya Market in Nice to Scott Antique Markets in Atlanta, there are plenty of flea markets to be found. But this brings up the all-important question: How do you shop for jewelry at a flea market? We often find ourselves gravitating towards beautiful tableware and one-of-a-kind furniture, but jewelry can be the most underrated and valuable type of treasure.

“The advantage of shopping at a flea market, compared to other places, is that you can find a variety of interesting pieces at bargain prices. There is a wide range of items and sometimes you can find gems,” shares Boudoir Vintage owner Monica London. “While it can be overwhelming at first glance, a tireless curiosity and a discerning eye is the key for a good hunting trip.”

If you are ready to learn how to shop for antique and vintage jewelry at a flea market, read on for a thoughtful guide that reveals the secrets from seasoned veterans including London, Chairish’s Director of Buying Meg Cass, and Fewer Finer's Founder and Lead Designer Madison Snider Podpirka.

First, Locate a Great Flea Market

You can find a flea market practically anywhere, however, there are aspects to consider before you go. The most important is timing: Some flea markets are only open on certain days of the week or during certain times of the year, so make sure the one you’ve had your eye on is open before making the trip.

How to Shop for Antique and Vintage Jewelry at a Flea Market

Once you’ve made it to the market, allow your eye to wander. Natural instinct can help you find something interesting and guide your search. Snider Podpirka, who has a section of her website dedicated to vintage jewelry finds, prefers to keep the search simple. She knows she’s found something good “when I find something that I feel drawn to, is made of all precious materials (no plating or [cubic zirconias]), and is well constructed,” Snider Podprika shares.

What Should You Look for When Shopping for Flea Market Jewelry?

Knowledge of construction and precious materials is helpful when looking through antique and vintage jewelry at flea markets. As a seasoned buyer for Chairish, Cass also has a detailed understanding of how to discover quality pieces. Here are the three things she says to look for when shopping.

Material

When it comes to sourcing antique and vintage jewelry finds, go for the gold (and platinum). “Precious metals like gold and platinum are common in fine vintage jewelry,” Cass reveals. “It’s helpful to familiarize yourself with hallmarks for noble metals such as 950 or PT for platinum and 14k, 18k or 24k for gold.”

The weight of the gold is also important. “I like well-made pieces that did not 'cheap out' on metal. For example, a vintage ring where the inside is carved out to save on metal weight and cost is something I am usually not drawn to,” Snider Podprika explains. Thicker pieces like the gloriously chunky chains Snider Podprika sells on her website are more desirable finds.

Markings

Like with most types of art, an artist likes to add their signature. Everyone from luxury designer brands to smaller-scale jewelers like to add markings to their pieces, like these fabulous earrings from Chanel.

“Look for hallmarks or maker's marks that indicate the jewelry's authenticity and origin,” Cass explains. “These markings can include the maker's initials, logos, or symbols indicating the metal purity.”

Cass says that just because something has markings doesn’t mean that it’s checked all the boxes. The markings are the jewelry's way of communicating, and just like anything else, there are signs when something is amiss. Unclear markings, missing elements or branding not consistent with the time period are things to be avoided.

Gem Cuts

Vintage jewelry pieces can full of hidden gems (literally!), but it’s important to understand the cuts of those glittering beauties before you buy.

Cass shares that “vintage jewelry may feature classic gem cuts such as old mine cut, old European cut, or rose cut for diamonds, and various cuts for colored gemstones such as emerald, oval, or cushion cuts. These cuts were popular during different historical periods and can help identify the age of the piece.”

A favorite cut of hers is old mine cut which she reveals “were cut specifically to sparkle in candlelight and their true character shows in dimmer, more intimate lighting.”

What to Bring When Shopping for Jewelry at a Flea Market

To help properly see and identify markings and more, London and Snider Podprika use a professional loupe to get up close and personal with markings, gem cuts and other details.

"When I go buying jewelry I like to remember to bring a loupe - which is the small pocket sized magnifying glass we use to see pieces and stones close up," Snider Podprika explains. "It's a great way for anyone to get a more close up look of the jewelry and can be used to check stone and setting quality, see metal marks and other hallmarks, and assess the condition of the piece."

What to Know Before You Buy Jewelry at a Flea Market

After looking through your loupe at your incredible finds, the time has come for you to make a decision. Before you officially decide on your purchase, make sure to test out the piece. Try it on. Take the time to ensure all the clasps, facets and other functions of the piece work well and smoothly. This will make sure that a piece that has already withstood the test of time can continue to live on with you.

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