Victorian Punks Ruled at the Adeam Show
Adeam’s Fall/Winter 2017 NYFW show was a full-throttle, punk rock, feminist showdown drawing inspiration from Victorian and Edwardian fashion, yet reconfigured with a modern twist.
The collection featured models walking down the runway in Victorian-influenced long, tiered gowns made of velvet and fitted with ruffles around the waist and lace around the skirt.
Asymmetrical blouses hung off the models’ shoulders in various proportions coupled with baby blue shirtdresses featuring puffed sleeves and cinched in at the waist for a subtle, corsetlike silhouette.
But in contrast to the tight corsets women wore during the Victorian era to emphasize the waist, the gowns in Adeam’s collection allow them to fall naturally over a woman’s curves, rather than forcing any type of artificial waist.
A small yet powerful detail spotted throughout the collection was the tiny pearls found on the garments and accessories. Little pearls detailed the lining of the skirts and slits along the hems of trousers, and also accented the jewelry and boots. In similar Edwardian fashion, the pearls helped bring a slight opulence to the clothing.
The punk rock/goth influence was strongly exhibited in the earrings, chokers, and models’ beauty looks. For example, the multichain ear cuffs paired alongside pearl-accented nose jewelry (playing off the traditional nose ring) and silver, hoop-linked chokers were juxtaposed by the models’ dark plum lipstick and blunt bangs (one model was spotted in a full head of blue hair). This all played into the punk-rock-girl subculture undertones.
And as the last model walked down the runway, she stopped to sit down at a drum set that was previously set up in the show space and began drumming in a free-style manner for the finale of the show, while in the background, the models walked down the catwalk for one last run.
The strong, abrasive drumming paired alongside the dark, brooding clothing felt strongly empowering for all the women involved. It was refreshing to see Adeam counter the stigma of what constitutes a “traditional woman” (especially a woman who lived during the Victorian era). Instead, casting the Adeam woman as a strong, feminine, dark-lipstick-wearing girl with all her chokers and long, black, velvety ruffled gowns was wonderful to see. In this collection, Adeam embraced all the strong-willed women who dominate the punk rock and goth subcultures that exist in our society but are often left out of the limelight.
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