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If you’re going to wear a full face of makeup in the middle of the summer, you want to make darn sure it’s not dripping off. Who better to tell you how to avoid melting foundation than Matin Maulawizada, the genius makeup artist responsible for the impeccably bronzed models in this year’s Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue. Anyone who can paint a long-lasting, fresh-faced look for an all-day photo shoot in Brazil’s tropical rainforest is our cosmetics hero. Read on for how to prep, apply, and preserve your own makeup in any summer weather conditions.
“The most important step is to exfoliate your skin,” says Maulawizada. “You want the surface to be ultra-smooth so that products will stay on.” He also advises using a primer without silicone to prevent it from sliding all over your skin. Try Korres Pomegranate Mattifying Primer ($33) to anchor your products.
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Maulawizada says on hot days you need to surrender to your skin’s dewiness and use cream products. “Avoid heavy texture and powders,” he says. “The more texture you use, the more your skin sweats and rejects it. Trust me, it will get muddy and gross.”
For cheeks, he suggests pinching your flesh with your finger and thumb so it turns that reddish pink. “Find a cream blush close to that color for the most natural, vibrant look.” He favors Make Up For Ever Flash Color Pots ($19) and Nars Cream Blush ($30). For dark skin, Maulawizada says MAC Cremeblend Blush ($21) is the best. Put the blush on the back of your hand and use a brush to thin it out, making it even sheerer. Apply the product just to the apples of your cheeks. “When you’re looking up close in a mirror you should see your skin with sheer color over it—you shouldn’t see the texture of the makeup.”
Maulawizada says many women—especially fair-skinned ladies—can go overboard with the bronzer. “What you want is a shade that’s just a tad darker than your skin,” he says. While Sports Illustrated models go for an ultra golden look, it’s not the most practical for every day. If you must use bronzer, he says Clinique’s Non-Streak Bronzer for Men ($19) is the best product with staying power. “You have to work fast with it, so quickly rub it on your hands and pat it onto your face where the sun hits or even a little on your neck. It won’t budge.”
Definitely skip anything that feels thick, heavy, or opaque. “I’m not a fan of long-lasting foundations—it looks too much like makeup and is really unattractive,” says Maulawizada. “The goal is a natural glow, so it’s best to use the basics.”
Throw any contoured smoky eye ideas out the window. Instead, you want a creamy, shimmery shadow that stay put. “Laura Mercier’s Caviar Stick Eye Shadows ($26) won’t move once they’re dry,” Maulawizada says. “Just use one or two shades on your lid, just above the crease and blend.”
If you want to mask dark circles, Laura Mercier’s Secret Camouflage ($33) is Maulawizada’s go-to. “It’s not sheer, but it looks like skin, so it’s great if you look tired or have a pimple.”
Instead of heavy lipstick or gloppy gloss, Maulawizada suggests applying sheer lipstick or tinted lip balm in a watermelon shade. Try Maybelline Baby Lips Crystal Moisturizing Lip Balm in Crystal Kiss ($4.49) or Clinique Chubby Stick Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm in Woppin Watermelon ($17).
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To set your makeup in place, use a translucent powder on your t-zone. He likes Laura Mercier’s Loose Setting Powder ($35) for fair to medium skin or the brand’s Invisible Pressed Setting Powder in Universal ($32) for darker skin. If you start to get dewy, Maulawizada says to brush some on the tops of your cheeks and side of your nose to look instantly fresher. “A tiny bit goes a long way, so again, brush it on the back of your hand before applying to your face.”
Lastly, keep blotting papers on hand. “The benefit of using creams is that you can just blend it right back in with your ring finger if it starts to budge.” The point is, don’t worry about looking perfect—it’s summer!
And don’t forget the sunscreen!
When models are out in the sun most of the day, Maulawizada says it’s vital to use a sunscreen with high SPF. For outdoor activities he recommends applying Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunscreen SPF 55 ($8.99) under everything. It’s strong, lightweight, and won’t mess with your makeup. Whew.
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