The Only Bomber Jacket You Really Need
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There was a moment, not all that long ago, when I thought I might be done with bomber jackets. This was around the middle of the 2010s, when the classic nylon MA-1 was so ubiquitous, it felt like you couldn't walk a single city block without encountering three dudes rocking it with skinny jeans and suede Chelsea boots à la Kanye. So I decided I would zig while others zagged. My wardrobe would be free of any aviation-adjacent inspiration. At the time, I thought this was kind of clever.
How wrong I was. In the intervening years, the hoopla around the bomber tapered off—an inevitability considering just how huge the trend was at its peak. And then, lo and behold, guys started wearing them again. Because that's how it goes with the classics. They ebb and flow in popularity, but they never go away. And now that we as a society have had a little time to recalibrate, it's clear that trying to deny the appeal of the MA-1 bomber is a fool's errand.
It's an imitable distillation of form and function. A countercultural icon that also happens to keep you comfortable, warm, and dry. A foundational piece that every guy should have in his wardrobe. And though designer iterations abound, when it comes to bang for your buck—and a legitimate legacy—you simply can't beat the one from Alpha Industries.
It’s the real deal.
If you think shoving yourself in a coach seat to cruise at 40,000 feet for a few hours sucks, consider the plight of the mid-century pilot. As fighter jets climbed to new heights, aviators needed jackets that could handle the cold temperatures of the upper atmosphere. Shearling sopped up moisture and was prone to freezing. Plus, it was bulky—a big problem in cramped cockpits jammed with ever more instruments. The solution: a nylon topper that was streamlined but sealed in heat. The design, introduced in the '50s, was dubbed the MA-1. In 1963, Alpha Industries was awarded the contract to produce it for the military. Now, more than 50 years later, the brand still strives to keep its "heritage" version of the MA-1 as close to military specifications as possible, right down to the blaze orange interior (it's reversible, by the way) that made downed pilots easier to spot. Granted, this isn't the kind of down-to-the-stitch vintage reproduction you'll get from specialist brands like Buzz Rickson's. But it's a faithful interpretation of the genuine article—not something merely "inspired by."
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It’s damn comfortable.
Here's the thing about military garments: They have to work. In the case of a jacket like the MA-1, that means keeping you warm, fending off the elements, and letting you move. The water-resistant nylon shell and polyester lining—substantial but not stifling—take care of the first and second points. Zip it all the way up and you're protected from the morning chill or a sudden rain. Leave it open and you can make your way through a sunny spring day without worrying about overheating. The cut of the MA-1 addresses the third point. If you're accustomed to slim-fit stuff, it may take some getting used to. The body is cropped, hitting just above the hip—all the better for wearing while sitting down in a cockpit—but the fit through the torso and arms is generous. It's all about ease of motion, and once you've acclimated to it, you'll wonder why you ever swaddled yourself in a too-tight jacket in the first place. (Plus, the cinched waist and broad shoulders create a particularly flattering line for pretty much any body type.)
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It’s just plain cool.
Honestly, if this is the only point you take away from this whole story, I'm okay with that. The MA-1 is simply, undeniably cool. The functional military history lends its fair share of street cred, to be sure, but it's the bomber's civilian track record that really seals the deal. It's part of the uniform of so many subcultures, it's difficult to keep track. Mods and punks snapped it up in the '60s and '70s. So did skinheads (of both the anti-racist and racist variety, so be careful about wearing yours with combat boots and tight jeans). It filtered into the LGBTQ community in the '80s, became a part of the early hip-hop uniform, made its way onto the backs of skaters and rockers and fashion models walking runways in America and Europe. And that's all thanks to not just its utility but its mutability. It works as well with wide-leg chinos and a white oxford-cloth button-down as it does with ripped jeans and a black T-shirt. You can channel rebellion or creativity or classicism—and then you can switch it up the next day if you so desire. It's the kind of garment that works for everything. (Well, nearly; don't wear it to a wedding.) The word "icon" gets thrown around a lot, but the MA-1 genuinely deserves the distinction.
Shop Now $200, alphaindustries.com and amazon.com
Photography by Joe Lingeman. Prop styling by Heather Greene.
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