Off Season Italy: Restaurateur Francesco Panella’s Guide to Eating Your Way Through Rome in Fall
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This is part of Off Season Italy, a collection of guides highlighting the year-round appeal of Italy's most popular destinations, courtesy of our favorite local tastemakers. Read more here.
Roman, with a capital “R,” Francesco Panella has visited over 150 world capitals. And the more he has seen, the more Roman he feels. Every time he returns to his hometown, he recognizes the extraordinary beauty of the city, with all its flaws and precariousness. "I wouldn't trade any city in the world for mine, and I’ve visited many places," he says. A food entrepreneur, he’s the restaurateur behind Antica Pesa, a trattoria in Trastevere that’s more than 100 years old (a favorite of Russell Crowe and Anne Hathaway) and has an outpost in Brooklyn. He’s also a television personality—his show, "Little Big Italy," is now in its seventh year—and the author of books on Italian food around the world.
Is there ever a quiet time to visit Rome?
In Rome, there really is no more off-season. People struggle to find hotel rooms even in January, February, and March. It’s a remarkable revival because visitors have discovered it’s a livable city year-round. Sure, it gets a little colder in January, but the thermometer never drops below 15 degrees. December is more of an off-time than the rest of the year—though the word “off” isn’t entirely accurate. There are just fewer people.
What do you love most about Rome?
I like Rome at night, particularly between 10:30 p.m. and 11:30 p.m. The restaurants begin to empty, and so do the piazzas. After that, the nightlife starts. At that time, I go home—preferably on foot to enjoy that special time. I also like Rome in the morning, very early when the city is still asleep. It’s one of the few metropolises with six million inhabitants that slows down in the morning, and it’s because Romans never tire of its visual beauty. You’ll often find cars stopped in front of the most beautiful sights, like the Gianicolo in front of the Spanish Embassy. Romans love their city, but they also kind of hate it. They’re always angry with Rome, but they would never leave—they are the city's guardians. They can speak ill of Rome, but they won't let anyone else do so. I’m a true Roman: Woe to anyone who slanders my Rome! It would be like insulting my mother or grandmother.
Come December, what’s your favorite local restaurant?
I often go to neighborhood osterias just to support them in my own small way. I like places that are not famous. I'm used to gourmet restaurants, but places like Cesare al Pellegrino—a small 25-seater in Piazza Farnese—reassure me. I often stop at Roscioli's. If they're full, I eat on a stool. That’s how close we are; we've known each other since we were kids. I arrive and ask, “Me dai da mangià?” (Can you give me something to eat?) Also, the bar next door is fantastic for lunch. For breakfast, I go to Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere for a cappuccino and maritozzo.
Do you have a favorite seasonal dish to order in December? And where is the best place to get it?
Carbonara, all my life—like the one at Roscioli's, which I eat often. It never changes, and I like it just the way it is. The only way to define carbonara is carbonara. I also eat artichokes alla giudia and alla romana in the ghetto and at Sora Lella.
What are the parts of Rome that travelers should know about?
Right now, the Roman suburbs are being reborn and they’re populated with locals. I’m talking about areas like Cinecittà, Piazza Bologna, and Esquilino. At Danilo's in Esquilino—the carbonara and products from the countryside are exceptional. They only serve one round of pasta. If you arrive too early, you wait, but you’ll be seated on the street level. If you arrive late, you get the timing right for the pasta but you eat in the basement. Alessandro Pipero’s spot, Pipero, is below my house and serves genuine Roman cuisine. I also stop at Anthony Genovese's Il Pagliaccio restaurant for a glass of wine or Giulio Terinoni's Per Me.
What is the weather like in Rome—are there any times to completely avoid?
You can go out year round, except at the end of July and August when you wither from the heat—especially during the last five years. In Rome, you’re generally fine because the city’s seven hills provide magnificent ventilation. Spring and the famous ottobrata romana (Roman October) are sensational times.
It’s Saturday and it’s the off-season. What’s your perfect way to spend the day?
Saturday is the most chaotic day. As a restaurateur, I rush to work. If you want to eat well, arrive at the restaurant before everyone else. That also applies to the off season because the Romans are there. Then I like to take a walk to Gianicolo because it reminds me of my childhood. I stop for fresh juice at Bar Gianicolo or to eat something at Antico Arco, which is famous for its revisited cuisine.
Originally Appeared on Condé Nast Traveler
