Nacho mania: Seven of our favorite plates of chips, cheese and more in the east metro

Jess Fleming, Pioneer Press
·4 min read

For a casual lunch or dinner, especially when sharing with friends, nachos are king.

It’s a full meal on a plate — carbs (chips), vegetables (I mean, at least salsa or tomatoes), dairy and protein. Plus, if you’re having a meeting (or just a meeting of the minds), it’s great to have something you can nosh on casually when someone else is talking.

Great nachos must have plenty of cheese, be it shredded or in queso form, but also a protein, be it meat, beans or both. House-made chips are definitely a bonus, but not strictly necessary if the toppings are good enough.

Here are the best versions I’ve found around town. If I missed your favorite, let me know at eat@pioneerpress.com.

Nico’s Tacos

These are, hands-down, the best nachos I have ever eaten. House-made chips, whole pinto beans, phenomenal queso, stellar salsa, guacamole and crema are layered so well that you get a little bit of everything with every bite without even trying. Honestly, these are what all nachos should aspire to be.

They are obviously crafted with care by someone who knows, and loves, good nachos. We had the chicken, but you can choose your own adventure — all the proteins at Nico’s are fabulous. Get a margarita while you’re at it. Nico’s serves some of our favorites.

  • Nico’s Tacos: Three Twin Cities locations, including 2260 Como Ave., St. Paul; 651-450-8848; nicostacobar.com. $13 at lunch or dinner.

Pajarito

Although these beauties are available only at happy hour, they are worth an early visit to this West Seventh Street eatery.

The house-made chips here are some of my favorites in town, and the salsas are pretty much unmatched, so this little boat of happiness was sure to be a winner in my book. The chips are topped simply with your choice of protein (we chose the tender, tasty chicken tinga), a stellar, creamy house-made queso, pickled jalapenos and a little pico for freshness. A lovely roasted tomato salsa is served on the side for extra heat and flavor.

  • Pajarito: 605 W. Seventh St., St. Paul; 651-340-9545; pajaritorestaurant.com. $8, happy hour only (Monday-Tuesday, 4-6 p.m.; Wednesday-Friday, 3-6 p.m.)

Juche

Nachos at a Korean place? Yes. Are they delicious? Also, yes!

This addictive plate starts with the restaurant’s killer Korean-spiced chips, which are layered generously with nacho cheese, lettuce, sour cream, pickled jalapenos and a little Korean hot sauce. We added the smoky, umami bulgogi bacon, and there were zero regrets around the table (and also zero leftovers).

Juche, in the former Cook St. Paul space on Payne Avenue, keeps getting better — and busier — with good reason. Chef Chris Her knows how to make craveable food.

  • Juche: 1124 Payne Ave., St. Paul; 612-490-3380; juchestpaul.com. $12; add bacon bulgogi for an additional $4. Dinner only.

Urban Growler

I’ve long been a fan of these nachos, which start with house-made chips and a smooth beer cheese made from the brewery’s flagship Cowbell Cream Ale. Pickled jalapenos, pico, sour cream and a roasted tomato salsa finish things off nicely. We added the flavorful chicken tinga, but bacon, pork and black beans are also options.

Urban Growler: 2325 Endicott St., St. Paul; 651-340-5793; urbangrowlerbrewing.com. $12, add chicken, pork, bacon or black beans for an additional $3. Dinner only on weeknights, lunch and dinner Friday-Sunday.

Homshuk

I’ve got to say I’m a little sad this new Apple Valley Mexican restaurant with its adjacent market and deli isn’t closer to my home. Still, it’s worth a little road trip for authentic, soulful dishes and craft cocktails served in a modern space.

Everything we tried here was phenomenal, including these nachos, loaded with refried beans, house-made queso, pico, guacamole, salty cotija cheese and fresh red serrano chiles.

  • Homshuk: 6999 W. 152nd St., Apple Valley; 651-300-1380; homshukmexicankitchen.com. $14, includes choice of meat. Lunch portion, $10.

Iron Ranger

This Grand Avenue restaurant and bar is one of my favorite spots to meet friends for drinks — especially during the summer months, when we can sit on the cute, sprawling patio.

And what goes better with drinks than nachos? True to brand, the nachos here are topped with the restaurant’s very tasty, very Iron Range porketta as well as spicy, pickle-y giardiniera, black beans, corn, cheddar and basically everything but the kitchen sink. The portion is ginormous — four of us split a half order last time I was there — and $3 off during happy hour, which ends at 5 p.m. every day except Saturday.

Habanero Tacos

We’re loving this new addition to Snelling Avenue, with its expansive menu of Mexican favorites. The nachos start with house-made chips (excellent) and canned nacho cheese (not so excellent). We’re willing to forgive the neon orange sauce, though, as the other toppings are plentiful and good, including meaty carne asada, refried beans and guacamole.

  • Habanero Tacos: 80 N. Snelling Ave., St. Paul; 651-666-3961; habanerotacosstp.com. $16 lunch or dinner.

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