Hike Canaveral Seashore’s Klondike Beach: A 13-mile trek along wild Florida coastline
Booming waves crash one over another while pelicans fly overhead and shorebirds forage in the sand, comprising the kind of idyllic sunny beachside scene Florida is known for. Except this time, there aren’t people or high-rise condos for miles around.
This was the view during a 13-mile hike on Klondike Beach, the sandy stretch of Canaveral National Seashore that lies between Apollo Beach on the north end and Playalinda Beach on the south side. I was joined by Chris Stevens, a fellow explorer and outdoor writer for Florida Hikes who is known on Instagram (with his wife and family) as the Sunshine State Seekers.
It was Good Friday, and something felt almost biblical about our pilgrimage along the undeveloped seashore as we visited the church of nature and fully immersed ourselves in the wild Floridian coastline. At least we had the weather on our side, with high temperatures in the low 70s and a north wind at our backs the whole way.
I don’t know exactly when or how the idea hatched, but I had this hike on my radar for several years and finally found an ideal day and someone crazy enough to do it with me. My pack and gear kit for the day included 3 liters of water, an Arizona tea, a Publix sub, apples, a wide-brimmed straw hat, a sun shirt and hiking boots.
Adventurers who attempt this should be prepared with plenty of sun protection, food and water for hours in the open sun with no amenities. A $5 backcountry permit (available at either ranger station) is required to venture past Apollo Beach lot 5 and Playalinda Beach lot 13.
We set off southward just after 7 a.m. from the end of the road at Apollo Beach, catching a magnificent sunrise with an amber horizon and whispy clouds over the Atlantic as a bright half-moon shone above the Mosquito Lagoon. We first took a turn onto a section of trail or access road on the lagoon side, which continued for several miles as we observed vibrant sea grape leaves, bright red sea beans, white moonflowers in bloom, the occasional prickly pear cactus and mangrove forests. On both sides of the trail, we were flanked by lush green vegetation and saw palmettos.
Eventually, the trail lets out at the beach, which covers about 2/3 of the hike (or you can take the beach the whole way). A note on the Canaveral National Seashore website advertises that crossing protected dunes is unlawful, so be sure to contact a ranger for the best guidance on where to hike and where to avoid.
It’s remarkable to see so much sand and sea without any humans. Small crabs poked their heads out of the sand, curious but cautious at the sight of visitors.
Away from the development of New Smyrna Beach and Titusville, Chris realized there was nothing between us and Africa but the vast ocean (unless you were to stop in Bermuda). We were engulfed by the natural Florida coastline with no reminders of civilization — except for trash and debris that had washed up with the tide, a consistent sight for most of the hike.
I packed grabbers (which Chris graciously agreed to carry), but we ultimately decided that it would be too energy-intensive to walk on sand for 13 miles with heavy bags of trash. However, we picked up a few stray balloons and pieces of litter that traveled with us into the trash can at the end of the hike.
We soon stumbled upon a small shack along the beach labeled as a biological field station. I imagined it would be used by scientists conducting wildlife research for breaks and storage. We welcomed the chance to stop on its small porch for an early lunch and a snack.
A few volunteers on ATVs, likely conducting sea turtle nesting surveys, seemed surprised to see any other human life out there. Those chance encounters made us believe this hike isn’t something people do very often.
As we meandered onward, we stopped to look at odd pieces of washed-up debris, including large buoys and one ambiguous piece that could have been either maritime or space-related. At one point, we witnessed a trio of roseate spoonbills soaring over on the lagoon side, and pelican flyovers continued as the afternoon approached.
As we resumed our trek southward, closing in on the final quarter of our remaining mileage, NASA’s Vehicle Assembly Building came into view on the hazy horizon. As my mind wandered, I thought of Doris Leeper, a longtime resident of New Smyrna Beach and artist who was instrumental in creating Canaveral National Seashore in 1975.
With the risk of widespread development along the seashore, Leeper fought to preserve the land around her home alongside the Mosquito Lagoon, where she lived with her two Great Danes and created art.
While enjoying the serene scenery unencumbered by beachfront properties and crowds, I also thought about the Indigenous people who first inhabited this stretch of coastline up to 14,000 years ago and the Timucuan people who lived in harmony with the natural landscape for centuries before Europeans ever set foot in Florida.
Within the last few miles of our hike, a ranger pulled up on his ATV and stopped, saying, “I’ve been following your tracks for a long time.”
He asked if we needed any water, but we came prepared for hours outside, although I admitted that we might have a few screws loose for attempting such an endeavor. This wasn’t the kind of outing most normal people decide to do.
As we approached Playalinda’s Beach 13, preparing for the sight of nude sunbathers, we found a congregation of pelicans, flamingoes, gulls and terns gathered on the shore of the lagoon with cormorants perched in the background. We were mindful of our distance but curious to get closer and join in the social affair.
In concluding our hike, I replaced the lens cap on my camera as we began to pass sunbathers in their natural state. We clothed hikers were the ones who looked out of place, gathering curious glances from people inevitably wondering, “Where the heck did they come from?”
After 6 1/2 hours in the sun, Chris and I were delighted to see his wife, Chelsey, and their infant son, who arrived to pick us up from the parking lot. We rushed to Playalinda Brewing Company in Titusville for sandwiches and beer, the most welcome treats after a long day of hiking.
Ultimately, this adventure represented a challenging but beautiful immersion in the wild Florida coastline, one that I won’t soon forget.
Find me @PConnPie on Instagram or send me an email: pconnolly@orlandosentinel.com.
More info
Visit nps.gov to learn more about backcountry hiking at Canaveral National Seashore.
