How to Grow Cilantro Successfully at Home

Get ready for a bountiful harvest with these tips.

Cilantro, or Coriandrum sativum, is one of the most common herbs on the planet, used in dishes across the globe—from Mexico to the Middle East and Asia. This member of the carrot family (Apiaceae) is most known for its polarizing flavor—some find it deliciously zesty and slightly citrusy, while others say it tastes soapy.

Cilantro is not just challenging for taste buds, though. Gardeners have a hard time growing it, because while it sprouts quickly (sometimes maturing in as little as 30 days), it can bolt very easily. And cooks find it’s difficult to keep the herb fresh in the fridge for longer than a day or two.

But once you nail the formula for success when it comes to growing cilantro, you will reap the many benefits. After all, cilantro is best when it’s fresh, and what’s fresher than snipping a few stalks from your own garden? Cilantro, along with basil, is probably one of the best herbs you can plant yourself—here, we detail all the best tips and tricks for how you can grow cilantro at home.

Related: How to Transform Your Rooftop (or Other Small Outdoor Space) Into a Garden

The Best Season and Location for Growing Cilantro

Cilantro is a cool-season herb and requires full sun and well-draining soil. According to Susan Mahr, a gardener from the University of Wisconsin–Madison, prefers full sun, especially as it grows, so pick a sunny spot in your garden. The only exception to this is if you live in an especially hot climate—pick a spot that has some afternoon shade or plant cilantro in pots so you can transfer them to a cooler location. Too much heat may lead to bolting (AKA going to seed) too early.

The best season to plant cilantro from seed is in the early spring if you want a summer or early fall harvest. In general, a full growing season  is typically 100 days, though harvestable leaves will pop up at around 45 days (and sometimes even sooner than that).

If you want tasty leaves, it’s best not to plant in the dead heat of summer. This could result in early bolting, and when this happens, leaves often have a bitter flavor.

Best Soil Type for Cilantro

Cilantro prefers what most other vegetables and leafy greens prefer—slightly acidic soil with a pH of around 6.5. The soil must be well-drained and somewhat fertile.

Planting Cilantro Seeds

The most successful cilantro plants are usually the ones started from seeds. (Transplants have a tough time adapting to their environment.) When you sow the seeds, space them 1 to 2 inches apart, and if you’re doing rows, spread them out there’s at least a 12-inch gap between them. Make sure there’s around ½-inch of soil on top of the seeds.

They will germinate in cool-ish weather (between 55 and 68 degrees), but make sure they remain moist at this time, so water them on a weekly basis to maintain moisture levels. Though they shouldn’t be soggy non-stop, either! Aim for around an inch of water per week.

FYI, once a cilantro plant has matured, it will drop seeds (AKA coriander!) and propagate itself.

Tips for Growing Cilantro Indoors

While many opt to plant cilantro outdoors, it’s totally possible to have a successful harvest indoors. Choose a planter that’s quite deep, as cilantro roots can be long. Something that’s about 12 inches deep should suffice, and choose something with drainage holes. As for room temperature, ensure that it’s less than 75 degrees Fahrenheit so the soil doesn’t get too warm. Keep your pot away from a heat source or sunny window if you must.

Besides the traditional container method, hydroponic (or water-based) systems have also become popular for indoor growing. Fascinatingly, the cilantro can grow directly in water with the help of a grow light.

Related: The 12 Easiest Herbs to Grow Indoors

Caring for Cilantro Plants

Water

Once your cilantro is established, typically after 45 days, you can taper your watering. The soil should still be slightly moist, but you’re better off slightly underwatering them at this point. Cilantro does not do well in damp or humid environments.

Light

While cilantro grows, they love full sun. But once it’s a full-blown plant, it’s best to ease up a bit on the sunlight to reduce the chances of bolting. Aim for no more than 6 hours of direct sunlight. If your cilantro is in a planter and it’s especially hot outside (above 80 degrees fahrenheit), move your cilantro to a shady spot in the afternoons. You can also manufacture shade if you’ve planted your cilantro in the ground by moving tall plants nearby, or invest in a shade cloth.

Temperature

Cilantro loves cool weather, doing best in climates of 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. However, it’s still sensitive to frost so if you want to protect your seedlings, cover them up with a cold frame.

Mulching

Mulching can be quite handy if you want a vibrant bunch of cilantro. It can keep soil cool when the weather warms up, and it prevents weeds. Straw is often used for cilantro, but till shallowly to reduce the risk of root damage.

Related: How Much Mulch Do You Need for Your Garden?

Tips

Bolting is often the enemy for most gardeners. Mandy L. Smith, master gardener at Penn State Extension, succinctly details the requirements for a cilantro plant that doesn’t bolt quickly—full sun and well-drained, acidic soil are the start for a solid harvest. Water and mulch your cilantro to maintain cool-ish temperatures, and choose a planting location with afternoon sun for super hot locations.

Harvesting Cilantro

The best part of cilantro is harvesting the leaves! Once the stalks are at least 6 inches, you can start collecting the fruits of your labor. Snip off leafy stems near the ground, but don’t chop off more than one-third of the plant. This will encourage more growth. You can also cut the entire plant, but leave an inch of the stem if you want it to regrow for a second cutting.

Common Pests and Diseases

One of the most common pests for cilantro is aphids, which are attracted to the herby scent, though “a good hard spray of water is an easy control method,” says Smith. Cilantro is also prone to bacterial leaf spot, which usually manifests itself as water-soaked spots with a yellowish edge. Eventually they will grow and turn brown or black. Dispose of these plants immediately, but don’t compost them. To prevent this in the future, up the air circulation and water at ground level, not overhead.

Related: 8 Indoor Herb Garden Tips That'll Get You Growing

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