Dior’s Pre-fall Campaign Has the Dietrich Look

YOU’VE GOT THAT LOOK: The spirit of Marlene Dietrich hovered over Dior’s pre-fall campaign, with models wearing looks that reflected the legendary Hollywood star’s androgynous allure.

But whereas Dietrich was a master of lighting who worked with director Josef von Sternberg to fashion her enigmatic public persona, U.S. artist and photographer Collier Schorr shot models Alice McGrath, Diane Tassigny, Ena Poppe, Nayonikaa Shetty and Ying Ouyang in her signature naturalistic style.

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A tailcoat and shorts channeled Dietrich’s career-defining turn in the 1930 classic “The Blue Angel,” while beaded evening gowns brought to mind her stage performances during the latter part of her career. Accessories included a mini version of the Lady Dior handbag and monochrome Spectadior pumps.

Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of womenswear at Dior, has frequently referenced Dietrich, whose career and public image were intricately tied to the French house, and whose gender-bending style has influenced everyone from Yves Saint Laurent to Madonna.

“No Dior, no Dietrich” is what the German actress and singer reportedly told Alfred Hitchcock when the director selected her for a role in “Stage Fright,” a 1950 film noir.

The makeup by Peter Philips and hairstyles by Olivier Schawalder exalted the retro feel of the images. Margot Populaire provided the creative direction for the campaign, which was styled by Elin Svahn.

The collection, spanning 116 looks, was presented online in December and is set to receive a runway outing with a fashion show at the Brooklyn Museum scheduled for April 15.

Chiuri wove in a sub-narrative about Paris and New York, dynamic cities that both Dietrich and Dior straddled, the latter adapting his creativity to U.S. lifestyles and setting up a workshop in Manhattan to serve a vast market that embraced his Parisian sensibilities.

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