U.S. Navy Responds to Hair Controversy with New Guidelines

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This diagram aims to clarify the Navy’s controversial hair guidelines

Jessica Sims served in the U.S. Navy with an unblemished record for 12 years. For over 10 of those years, Sims wore tightly woven dreadlocks pulled back in a bun without comment from her superiors. Then Sims was asked to change her hair to fit in with the Navy’s longstanding regulations requiring a smaller bun size and banning dreadlocks. She was also given the option to wear a wig. When she refused she was given the boot with an honorable discharge this August. Sims felt that the problem wasn’t her refusal, but the Navy’s rigid hairstyle options for African American women.  Sims told the Navy Times, “I do think that it’s a race issue. The majority of the hairstyles that have the strictest regulations are hairstyles that black women would wear.”

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This week, in an effort to be more inclusive as well as clarify exactly what they expect in terms of appearance, the Navy introduced regulations for 19 approved hairstyles.  Dreadlocks are still forbidden. “They are very difficult to get into regs,” explained Lt. Stephanie Homick, Spokesperson for the Chief of Naval Personnel. Commenting on the Sims case, Homick had this to say, “We hold every sailor to the same standard. It’s not on an individual basis. We are the military.”

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With the new guidelines, the military has done some updating, adding a new style—the two strand twist, and increasing the bun size from 2-inches in diameter to 4. There are several options for cornrows, multiple braids, and naturally curly hair.  “We wanted to make sure that we included styles for all types of different hair, wavy, curly, or pin straight,” explains Homick. “The new guidelines we have in place will give women options.”

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They’ve even developed an online hair style guide with pictures, a 360-degree viewer, along with 400 word count descriptions for each look. Some styles, like the bun, are displayed next to virtual rulers. It was clearly a topic that was examined closely and it has paid off for some. “I think the new interactive viewer is awesome,” says Claudia Seawright, Senior Chief Petty Officer. Seawright particularly likes that with pictures as part of the guidelines, the military expectations will be clearer for leaders and their troops. The hope is that this will take away the need for debate. “They didn’t rush into this decision, and they sought a lot of our input. I think all of the styles are professional and everyone I’ve talked to is just so happy with the changes,” she says.

Ultimately, the military claims that the reason for the style limitations are practical, “We have these measurements so that you can be able to wear a gas mask or firefighting gear. We don’t want anything to prevent you from properly wearing your equipment.”

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