The Models Were Literally on Fire at Moschino
Photo: Getty Images
If you’ve ever seen fashion fans mob the Moschino show entrance the way tweens flock to Justin Bieber, you know Jeremy Scott’s Milan runway is one of the week’s hottest tickets. But on Thursday, his catwalk wasn’t just a smoke show of bombshells in gowns — it was literally on fire.
The signs started early: Moschino’s invitation came with its own pack of designer matches. The set featured dripping wax and broken candelabras. The air smelled like rave-strength smoke machines. And then came the clothes — a chandelier gown, cigarette jewelry, and two finale dresses that emitted swirls of thick black smoke every time their models, Anna Cleveland and Molly Bair, took a strut forward.
Those dying to feel the heat can buy runway pieces right now. Or if you’d rather just bask in the afterglow, read our exclusive backstage chat with Scott himself.
Yahoo Style: A flaming runway looks cool, but your clothes always have a deeper intention than just “wow, let’s Instagram that.” Can you shed some light — pardon the pun — on all the fire?
Jeremy Scott: Fashion is double-edged, right? Just like a flame, we’re drawn to it, and it can be nurturing and illuminating and warm … and also dangerous and all-consuming. And there’s so much in the vernacular — you know, “bombshell,” “smoke show,” “hottest look” — that indicates that. The double entendre of smoking and burning up with those phrases is where we started.
But you have lots of ideas. Why take this one to the runway?
Because it can be sexy and smart and fun, for sure. But also because it uses the decay and the burning of the fabric to show the couture underpinnings of these gowns and the construction of these really complicated pieces. By glimpsing what’s underneath so many of these pieces, you’re seeing the incredibly hard work, plus the technique and the craftsmanship that goes into every collection we do. That’s sexy and interesting, and it’s a tribute to our team’s talent, which makes me feel so excited.
Can we talk details? You’re in a studio in Milan … and you’re setting clothes on fire. How’d your fire alarms handle it?
We were so lucky. We never had any fire alarms go off. But it’s Italy, you know, so even smoking [cigarettes] in the office never triggers the alarms. But we had to test it out here at the show venue because the technical marvels of this show were extreme. I don’t think there’s ever been a dress that literally emits smoke when it goes down the runway.
Yeah, how did that even happen? Anna Cleveland showed us the tiny smoke machine that was taped inside her dress. She said she couldn’t feel anything.
Yeah, it looks like real smoke, but we tested it extensively before the models even put it on. No models were harmed in the making of this collection!
How did they prepare to wear those dresses?
It was a lot of work to get it just right. When we did fittings and rehearsal, we had Anna and Molly walk toward a mirror so they could literally see how the smoke and the clothes go together. Anna loves to move around and Molly is a really strong walker — you know, she does so many other major shows. But we learned pretty quickly that if you stay still for a few seconds, you can actually control the smoke and how it features your figure. Anna’s, like, the master of the twirl. Even if there wasn’t smoke in the dress, she would somehow make it appear. And Molly is fearless.
So nobody was nervous when you said, “Guys, we need to make couture gowns and burn them, and have a few girls in flames on the runway.”
I mean, when you put it like that… [Laughing] My assistant was very nervous, I won’t lie. When I said, “We need to set these sequins on fire,” there was an audible gasp, like, “Can’t we just burn regular fabric?” And I said, “Absolutely not. For this to be special, we need to burn lace. We need to burn leather and silk. We need to burn sequins and expose parts of evening looks.” I wanted everything to disintegrate. I wanted there to be ashes and glamour and decay and light, all at once.
Despite working on two collections this February, you came to support your friend Rihanna at the Fenty fashion show. What did you think of the collection?
I thought everything was stuff that she would wear, from start to finish. I thought, “That looks like stuff that’s fun to do and it looks like stuff from start to finish that she would want.” To me, that kind of celebrity collaboration is a real success. With that price point, with that kind of customer base, I thought it was a rock star collection because it meets the customer where they are. And I know I’m biased because Rihanna is ride or die with me. But I’m also really honest — you know that! — and if I didn’t think it was great, I’d say something like, “I’m so proud of her as an artist,” and then change the subject. But I mean it — it was a cool collection for her and perfect for her fans.
You have some very cool cigarette accessories in this collection. But smoking is bad for you!
Well, the bags mean what they say: Fashion kills!
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