The Inventive Way That Designers Are Fighting Against Knockoffs
On the left, a dress by Quiz. On the right, a look from Mary Katrantzou’s Spring 2015 collection.
Some say imitation is the finest form of flattery, but for fashion designers whose creations are being knocked off –just days after a runway debut, in some cases – that’s a small consolation.
These days, the world of the fashion forgery feels like a far cry from the illicit allure of a counterfeit designer bag from a street vendor or trunk of a car (surely we weren’t the only ones tempted by the Sex and the City episode with Samantha’s fake Fendi obsession?)
The oversaturation of knock-off fashions, available everywhere from Zara to Forever 21, in the latest runway prints, silhouettes and pieces feels more prevalent than ever – but designers have found a nifty way to fight back.
An article in Friday’s Wall Street Journal explores how designers have started experimenting with their own fabrics to create one-of-a-kind pieces that can’t be replicated.
On the left: a look from Céline, on the right a top from Zara
Prioritizing quality and craftsmanship in her creations, designer Mary Katrantzou – once known for her explosive digital prints, which were, unsurprisingly, ripped off by down-market copy cats – has been using custom-made embroidered jacquards from a Swiss mill and guipure in her latest designs.
Meanwhile, Proenza Schouler duo Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez have been devoting time, money and energy to creating new fabrics, like their foil-printed pleated skirts, while Nicolas Ghesquière’s deceptively simple looking silhouettes at Louis Vuitton are made from complex and unexpected materials (like a sequin-embroidered georgette silk baby doll dress trimmed with lambskin and eel leather).
These exciting and innovative new fabrics come with some out-of-this-world-for-most-of-us price tags, so despite their wearable silhouettes and everyday appeal, is there still the attraction of going the Forever 21-knockoff route for customers?
On the left, a sweater from H&M. On the right, the original knit by Prabal Gurung
“When fast fashion companies offer trendy pieces at great value, it pushes us to seek out special designer pieces to offer our clients,” says Nancy Zhang, VP/COO of New York and L.A. designer boutique, Otte. “Otte clients are fashion insiders, so they are very much aware of where the fast fashion ‘inspiration’ comes from.”
“At the end of the day, consider it value vs. quality trade-off – regardless of how many knockoffs are in the market, our clients invest in designer pieces that are iconic, of high quality and of great craftsmanship because they take pride in their personal style,” Zhang says.
And even though they’re not on the same level quality-wise, instead of seeking out industry knockoffs, the rest of us can console ourselves with the many designer-chain collaborations that are constantly being rolled out. Happily for Mary Katrantzou fans, her sporty-bright Adidas collection is available now…
Related: The Sincerest Form of Flattery? Forever 21 Knocks Off Mansur Gavriel’s Bucket Bag
