The Artist Speaks: Vanessa Beecroft on Tod’s, Kanye, and Karlie
Vanessa Beecroft installation for Tod’s; Photo: Getty Images
Vanessa Beecroft is famous in two realms: the museum world, and the Kanye one. Since 1993, she’s created performance art pieces using fashion models instead of paint. Since West launched his first Yeezy collection, she’s been his hands-on collaborator, staging shows that were part catwalk, part gallery installation, and part hip-hop legend.
But today in Milan, Beecroft paired with a very different label—Tod’s—to present VB Handmade, a living picture starring Karlie Kloss and 12 other models perched on a giant table. The girls were wrapped in needle-studded leather from Tod’s artisans. Some wore silicon breast covers instead of tops; Kloss donned a redheaded wig similar to Beecroft’s own hair.
What did it all mean? According to the show notes, “Vanessa interprets the quality and craftsmanship of Tod’s artisans, translating their art into contemporary glamour.”
Translation: ask the artist herself. So that’s what we did.
Yahoo Style: A lot of brands must want to work with you. Why say yes to Tod’s?
Vanessa Beecroft: I’ll tell you how it happened. I called [Vogue Italia editor] Franca Sozzani, and I said, “Should I do this?” She said “Call them back right now and say yes.” She said that [Tod’s President] Diego Della Valle is an art collector, and he’s sensitive to the creative process of artists, not just the commercial or cool aspects of hosting an art show at a fashion event. And therefore, I felt like I was entering a sphere that was safe.
Have you seen the new collection?
Oh sure. And it’s part of why I said yes to doing this. It’s not like this is immediate—like, uh, fast or very trendy?—fashion. Tod’s is more of a classic brand and they take such care in their products. So I felt they would take such care of an art piece, as well.
We’re like two feet away from Karlie Kloss, who’s laid out on a giant slab. Do you want to walk us through how she got there?
The inspiration was, I started with a photograph by Guy Bourdoin where a woman is lying on a table, and she’s naked. That was the original concept.
Wow.
Eventually, they wouldn’t let me do that with [Karlie Kloss]—not just her, with any of the models! I had to wrap something around the women’s bodies, and Tod’s asked if I could do something in relation to their handbags. So I wrapped them with leather pieces and stuck them with needles to recall Azzadine Alaia. So it was kind of an adventure, figuring it out.
In this art piece, Karlie’s hair is long and red, and kind of boho-beachy like yours. What products do you use to get it like that?
Nothing. I never put anything in it! In fact, this morning, I didn’t even brush it, because I was so nervous. I’m very nervous right now, honestly. So I just walked out of my bed and came to work. [Laughing] And now, I’m even more nervous, because I just remembered that!
This marks the second time you’ve been on the fashion calendar this season. How is VB Handmade different from the Yeezy collaborations you’ve done with Kanye West?
Well, with Kanye it’s a different project because I am connected to Kanye as if he were a brother, a brother with the same soul of art. When I do something for Kanye, I do it as if I were doing it for myself. It’s not a job. It’s a mission, and I’m only going to do it for Kanye. The freedom he gives me is really wide. There are no restrictions. It’s not until the execution comes that some of the details begin to get compromised.
It sounds like you really like each other.
It’s a whole other level of art, to me. It’s so strong and so pure. In fact, I wish I could only work with Kanye!
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