Sister Act: An Inside Look at Trademark, Louisa and Pookie Burch's New Store
“It’s one of those things where you have huge dreams and then no ideas at all,” explains Louisa Burch about the brainstorming process behind Trademark, the fashion label she launched with her older sister Pookie in 2014. There were plenty of mood boards and long hours bandying about names and concepts with brand director Alex Hawgood, but from the beginning the sisters had a specific vision. ‘There was something missing from the market,” says Louisa. “There was an aesthetic missing— something classic and American but not in that heritage way.”
Indeed they weren’t going for that LL Bean preppy of yesteryear look. They wanted something more timeless. “I studied photography in college and was always curious about the Black Mountain College in North Carolina. What would the energy be like back in the thirties?” says Pookie. Artists like Merce Cunningham, John Cage and Joseph Alber attended and taught at the legendary art school. Vintage pictures from the school show students in slouchy pants, crisp white shirts and jaunty scarves. Pookie also looked to the art of Barnett Newman and Ellsworth Kelly.
So how does this translate into clothes? There are lots of geometric shapes, primary colors and clean design— think A-line skirts in heavy cottons, cozy colorblocked sweaters and minimalist sandals. You can see why the sisters already have gained a cult following among the girls who want to wear Celine but not at Celine prices.
The sisters certainly have fashion in their DNA: their father is Chris Burch, who owns C Wonder, while their stepmom is Tory Burch, fashion’s golden girl. Of course, they know the inevitable is coming. Did your parents give you any advice? “They gave us encouragement, especially during the moments when you feel overwhelmed but there wasn’t specific lessons,” says Louisa. “But they were always teaching us things along the way. We learned more from them growing up.” She then thinks about it for a second and then offers this. “Actually my dad gave us a piece of advice that really stuck: the customer is always right.”
To that end their first store, which opened in September in Soho has a rich gallery feel with lush maple paneling, a dramatic staircase and various objects carefully placed around the space. But it’s welcoming: the staff are friendly and the objects are mementos from their childhood like baskets from Nantucket (where they spent their childhood summers) and their grandfather’s paintings. The store feels as luxurious but accessible as the clothes. The whole vibe feels very much like the Burch girls: sophisticated but relaxed.
Despite the fact that fashion is a family affair, what’s it like working with your sister on a daily basis? “As sisters we are both very committed, there’s a huge sense of trust and we speak the same language,” says Louisa. “But because we are sisters we can get annoyed at each other much more quickly. But then we are back to normal more quickly.”
Photography Emily Johnston
