Making the Grade: Emilio Pucci get’s a B+ for Spring 2016
Designer Massimo Giorgetti, who also designs the street style MSGM, debuted his first Pucci runway show in a cavernous warehouse in Milan and the house was packed with every major editor. The first thing I noticed was the location: a raw-looking warehouse instead of the usual rich palazzo where the Italian house usually shows. My other observation? There was no glittery front row crowd or Pucci party girls that the former designer Peter Dundas used to attract. So how did our man do? Let the grades begin.
Inspiration: Founder Emilio Pucci’s love of all things related to summer and the seaside, reinterpreted by Giorgetti. The main theme, according to Pucci’s official release was ‘cinematic seascapes for urban mermaids.’ What does it mean in real life? Beachy clothes that cool girls could wear in the city. It worked for the most part. GRADE B+
Ready to wear: The previous Pucci girl liked to parrrrty hard. She was brash, OTT and overtly sexy. The new Pucci girl likes to tone it down a little and is a bit more fashion forward, mixing her fabric and throwing on layers. There were nautical-style looks in what seemed like a stretchy wool, sequin skirts with slits, and tops and skirts that resembled coral. Coral-, sea shell- and fish-shapes caught in black netting could have looked like the catch of the day but translated well as embellishments on dresses, skirts and tops. (Giorgetti is known for his patchwork style.) It was definitely a departure from Dundas’ Pucci, but it also felt a little disjointed. Perhaps that was the point, but the looks didn’t seem to flow as well as usual. GRADE B
Bags: There were four styles in various shapes, sizes and prints but the standout was a satchel covered in a fringe-like rope. GRADE B
Shoes: Sandals that looked like fish bone but actually spelled out ‘Emilio’, marabou feather heels, sandals with pearl detailing, and others with a knotted rope heel. GRADE A
Attendance: There were no major celebrities and definitely no scantily-clad Pucci goddess— it was just press, buyers and friends. If you were judging this show by the celeb factor, you would grade this a D, but on a professional level, it was an A+. There were six American Vogue editors in attendance and you can’t get any more major than Anna sitting front row without her sunglasses on! B
Overall Grade B+
All photos by Getty
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