Groove is in Sies Marjan's Heart
As fashion shows go, it was not the most glamorous location. But if fashion shows are really just bi-annual industry conventions, then it made perfect sense that we were all riding the escalators to the New York Hilton’s ballroom for Sies Marjan’s runway show. We walked into a room so brightly lit it was as if the actual sun was trapped inside— a welcome contrast from the dreary and grey weather outside.
Soon the white paper protecting the runway from all the wet and dirty soles was removed, revealing underneath a pristine white felted covering. The first model walked out, loose hair, bare face, in an oversized drape-y dusty pink short sleeve shirt worn over an equally drape-y asymmetric hemmed dusty pink satin skirt and brown platform loafers. The designer has been experimenting with looser silhouette in the past seasons and this season he clearly reached his pinnacle. But while in previous seasons this suggested smarter, more deconstructed clothes, this time the looks fell a bit flat, like a design student’s experimentations with the silhouette.
That’s not to say there weren’t really incredible pieces throughout the show. Sies Marjan has made a name for itself with its deft hand at colors and patterns, and the neon pinks and oranges felt slightly subversive especially when so much of the world seems to be telling women to be quiet, to not make a fuss, to disappear.
The ’90s are still fashion’s favorite decade, but there’s so much more to the ’90s than just grunge and mom jeans, and I couldn’t help but think of Deee-lite’s iconic front woman Lady Miss Kier during the show. She would’ve swooned over the platform loafers with a bell heel (the smart fashion girls will look for vintage John Fluevog’s to fill the gap), especially the peep-toe slingback version in blue patent leather. A few designers have already started experimenting with this ’70s through a ’90s prism (Prada) look and so far it seems like an untapped treasure trove for inspiration. I was glad that it Marjan is heading into this mostly uncharted territory.
Marjan is also bringing some fun back into fashion—something we need right now— with eye-popping looks like a furry neon pink coat, skinny trousers in blue lurex, and a neon tangerine fur stole paired with a fringed camel jacket. These seem to be no-brainer pieces, which can bring some umph into your wardrobe. Because although those pieces may not seem as important as the “little black dress you’ll wear forever,” they end up becoming part of a secret arsenal for when you need your clothes to act like a pick me up, for when you want to be the center attention, for when you want the world to know that your “groove is in the heart.”
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