Could Designer Exchange Programs Be the Answer to Fashion Week Dilemma?
Between Couture shows in Rome and Resort shows in Rio, it's clear that the traditional fashion capitals-New York, Milan, Paris, and London-no longer have a monopoly on fashion "week." What's less clear, however, is how emerging designers-who almost certainly don't have the funds to stage shows in far-flung locales-will fit into the changing landscape.
MADE-acquired last year by IMG-has an idea: The company, which describes itself as "a year-round, dynamic platform that connects emerging talent in fashion, music, art and culture with visionary brand partners" is expanding outside of the U.S. and helping to foster creative exchange between design hubs with its just-launched designer exchange program.
"I think fashion weeks [in secondary markets] will continue to play a greater role in fashion over the coming years," says MADE's managing director Barnett Zitron. "Fashion culture is strong in so many places around the world. There are industry icons, creatives and fashion consumers in all these cities, and their impact is global."
Over July 4th weekend, the company kicked off its new global push with a dinner during Berlin's Fashion Week that celebrated the Spring/Summer collection of the first brand to be selected for the designer exchange program: Ottolinger, founded by Berlin-based designers Christa Bosch and Cosima Gradient.
"We've been so impressed by Berlin's fashion culture," says Zitron. "This city is a creative capital and IMG has been a longtime supporter of the talent here. Cosima and Christa from Ottolinger have uniquely strong visions that deserve global recognition and we felt giving them a platform at MADE New York would be the perfect way to kick off our designer exchange program."
"It's an amazing opportunity for us," says Bosch. "We're very excited to go and have a new experience and reach a new crowd." The program is undeniably a boon to Ottolinger's global profile-yet it also provides an opportunity for MADE to make in-roads within Berlin's creative community. The company has proven itself adept and thinking outside the box and last week's Berlin event was no different: Held at the iconic Galerie at Alte Teppichfabrik, which is, essentially, an abandoned carpet factory in East Berlin, the dinner, sponsored by AirBerlin, brought together a mix of fashion insiders from both Germany and the U.S.
Afterwards, NYC-based cool kids Eckhaus Latta hosted a party on the first floor of the factory, in which they had pinned up thrift store finds from Berlin's famous HUMANA stores. Guests were welcome to take whatever items they wanted. It was a perfect example of the kind of event that might actually help to foster a dialog between brands, designers, and editors from separate markets. Shows are great for a lot of things (branding, social impressions, presentation), but the audience is passive; last week in Berlin, everyone was a participant.
"We do think more and more designers will move toward putting on events versus traditional runway shows," says Zitron. "As part of WME | IMG, MADE is very well positioned to help designers realize their creative visions with music collaborations, entertainment aspirations and brand partnerships. How designers make their collections come to life is really up to them. The opportunities are limitless." An emerging brand could never hope to put on grand spectacles like the big brands can--recent shows put on by Louis Vuitton (at Niteròi Contemporary Art Museum in Rio de Janeiro) or Fendi (atop Rome's Trevi fountain) come to mind-but they can innovate and collaborate in new ways. Says Zitron: "Often times the new generation of designers push the boundaries for the traditional industry cycle, and so it's important to support them on their journeys."
