Yohji Yamamoto RTW Fall 2021

Booth Moore
·2 min read

Yohji Yamamoto went digital for fall, showing a kind of hybrid film and look book that included info about the fabrication of pieces popping up as interstitials. Clocking in at 23 minutes (it is Yohji, after all), the show featured the designer’s voice and songs, with Japanese photographer Takay’s eye capturing the poetic layers in motion.

The look: Punk romantic, with nods to 19th-century silhouettes and 21st-century streetwear, a realm in which Yamamoto has renewed currency since his 2020 collaboration with Supreme.

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Quote of note: As he said on the voiceover, “Women’s clothing is a landscape on which an infinite journey unfolds.” As with most of his collections, this season’s infinite journey was through a palette of mostly black, red and white. Corsetry was abstracted to more of a suggestion on a trio of gorgeous long black dresses with tangles of lacing. Deconstructed jackets and tailcoats had zippers and free-floating panels creating shape and volume. Other pieces were embellished with white thread work; leaf-like cutouts, gestural flounces, folds and pleats.

Standout pieces: While it is always a joy to see Yamamoto’s freeform, conceptual approach come to life, some of the pieces that resonated most were more structured, including elegant black dresses draped in wires and chains from an upcoming jewelry collection. Also memorable? A pair of supersized blazers, one in a fraying black-and-white tweed, the other fastened with a humongous safety pin. Leather pieces were also strong, including a super-cropped black biker jacket. In the spirit of streetwear, pants came with busted out holes, and artful coats splatter-painted or graffitied.

Takeaway: Less bustled historicism, more badass rebel — and more current-feeling for it.

Launch Gallery: Yohji Yamamoto RTW Fall 2021

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