This Under-the-radar Ski Area Gets Double the Snow of Most Resorts in the American West — and Sits at the Base of an Active Volcano

Mt. Baker is an old-school gem with plenty of powder.

There aren't many places like Mt. Baker Ski Area left. In fact, its CEO, Gwyn Howat, estimates there are only a handful of its size like it across the U.S. While this Washington state ski area offers the same world-class powder skiers and riders look for in larger mountains, it isn't owned by a real estate investment company or private equity firm. Baker has been majority-owned by community members since 1953 and managed by the Howat family since 1968.

"We're not a ski resort. We're a ski area. We don't sell purses or shoes, and you can't get a pedicure or manicure here," Howat said. Her father took over the resort when it had only two chairlifts. Now, with her in charge, it has 10 chairlifts and 1,000 acres of skiable terrain that see an average of 666 inches of snow a year, almost double that of most resorts in the western U.S. The ski area even holds the world record for snowfall: 1,140 inches in one season.

When most ski areas started adding heated chairlifts, building five-star hotels, and opening bougie boutiques, the team at Baker focused on keeping the lifts turning, managing its snow, and ensuring people were smiling. Beyond adding more lifts, not much else has changed since the Howats took over. It's not part of a mega pass, and its lift tickets remain well under $100. It operates off the grid and avoids advertising.

In addition to an old-school feel, Baker has a truly unique setting. It sits less than 60 miles from the ocean between Mt. Shuksan, a glaciated massif, and Baker, an active glacier-covered stratovolcano.

“Part of what makes Baker unique is the place — much like the North Shore is for waves, Baker is for snow,” said Howat. When you’re ready to enjoy the steep and deep of Mt. Baker, here’s where to start.

• The old-school, uncommercial vibe

• Affordable lift tickets

• Double the powder of many resorts across the U.S. West

When to Go

Unlike many ski destinations, there's no official opening date at Mt. Baker. The slopes are ready when the snow is good enough for skiing, and that tends to be between mid-November and mid-December. They remain open through April.

December is typically the snowiest month of the season, but the abundant precipitation and holiday breaks keep the trails busy. Historically, the snow has slowed down through the month of January and ramped back up in February. February and March are safe bets when it comes to good, reliable powder and low crowds.

Where to Stay

Blue T Lodge

You won't find five-star hotels and sprawling resorts in the Baker area, but you'll have everything you need for a restful night at this six-room inn. What it lacks in lavish amenities it makes up for in natural surroundings. When you aren't skiing, you can go for a winter walk in the Mount Baker National Forest right on your doorstep.

Luxury Getaways

For a little more space, opt for a Luxury Getaways cabin rental. The cabins range in size from one to five bedrooms, and you can choose a property tucked in the forest or right on the shore of Silver Lake. Amenities vary, but some cabins have fireplaces, hot tubs, wet bars, and other appealing perks.

Camping

In yet another departure from ski area norms, Mt. Baker lets you camp in your RV right in the Heather Meadows or White Salmon parking lot. Advance reservations are required. There are no amenities, so make sure your camper is self-contained, but if you go this route you'll get unmatched access to the mountain.

Where to Eat

Raven Hut Mid-Mountain Day Lodge

Sitting at the base of three lifts and accessible only by hiking or skiing, Raven Hut is the ideal mid-mountain pit stop for burgers, fries, or chili. As much as people love the food (pulled pork and hearty Baker bowls are local favorites), they're also enticed by the cozy log cabin atmosphere complete with a crackling fireplace.

Wake 'n Bakery

This breakfast and coffee spot in nearby Glacier, about 19 miles from the ski area, is where you'll find skiers and riders sipping lattes and smashing breakfast burritos before heading up the mountain. Stop by to get your caffeine fix and a muffin or scone for the road.

Rifugio’s Country Italian Cuisine

Mt. Baker isn't really the place to go for a fine-dining experience, but if you're in need of a plate of well-made pasta served alongside a glass of full-bodied, PNW-made cabernet, you'll find that at Rifugio's Country Italian Cuisine. It's in Deming, a 37-mile drive from the ski area, and open Friday through Sunday.

Where to Après-ski

Chair 9 Woodstone Pizza & Bar

Après at Baker often looks like beers in the parking lot, but head to this casual pizzeria in Deming for something a little more structured. Chair 9 serves a variety of themed pizzas like the meat lovers' Mt. Baker and a classic margarita renamed The Chute. When there isn't live music, there's often a sporting event to watch on the TVs.

Graham's Bar & Restaurant

Graham's in Glacier is a bona fide dive. It's the kind of place with antler decorations and picnic table seating. Guests can take their pick from an array of draft Pacific Northwest beers at the longstanding spot, often accompanied by live music. You can also eat here — the food menu features beer-battered cheese curds, venison chili spiked with lager, and poutine.

Off-mountain Activities

Swap your skis for snowshoes.

Artist Point is a moderate four-mile round-trip snowshoe route that provides breathtaking views of the Cascade Range. Conveniently, the trail is accessed from the ski area parking lot. Other snowshoe routes are located along the Mt. Baker Highway.

Go for a scenic drive on Mt. Baker Highway.

Even folks who don't stop to ski at Mt. Baker love to road trip on its namesake highway, aka the Baker Scenic Byway. Along it, you get views of the North Fork Nooksack River, Mt. Baker, and Mt. Shuksan. The route stretches 57 miles from Bellingham to Artist Point.

See a frozen waterfall.

It's worth taking the short detour from Mt. Baker Highway to Nooksack Falls any time of year, but the scenery is especially magical when the falls are frozen. About halfway between Glacier and the ski area, turn off the highway onto Forest Road 33 and follow it for a half-mile to get to the trailhead. The easy walk to the base of the falls takes only a couple minutes.

How to Ride

Tickets

A full-day adult lift ticket is about $90, but rookie skiers can access the beginner chair for around $55, and kids six and under ski for free. You can save money with an afternoon ticket, which gets you access to the mountain after 12:30 p.m. for just under $80. In keeping with the old-school vibe, you’ll need to visit the ticket office on the day you plan to ski to pick up a lift ticket — there are no online sales.

However, season passes can be purchased online. There's one that grants you access mainly on weekdays (a little over $1,000) and another that will get you in any day (about $1,100).

Rentals

Though Baker isn't a very developed ski area, there are two rental outfitters on the mountain: one at the White Salmon Base Area and the other at the Heather Meadows Base Area. All rental packages include skis or a snowboard, bindings, boots, and poles for skiing. You can also opt for just the board or skis. Helmets can be rented separately. There are basic and premium packages and half- and full-day options at both locations.

Skiing and Snowboarding Info

There are more than 30 trails among Mt. Baker's 1,000 skiable acres, with beginner and advanced trails making up about a quarter a piece and intermediate making up roughly half. The ski area is split into two sections, the Shuksan side, which has most of the intermediate terrain, and Panorama Dome, split into mostly beginner and expert trails. Seasoned skiers and riders will find the most challenging terrain on three double black diamond runs.

The ski area has 10 lifts, including eight quad chairs and two handle tows. The highest — Chair 8, going up the Shuksan side — climbs to 5,089 feet.

Programming

As Gwyn Howat said, Mt. Baker is not a resort. There aren't many activities or programs offered here, but the ski area does hold lessons daily. There are group sessions for beginners as well as private lessons for individuals and groups of all ability levels. To learn more or reserve your spot, visit the lesson desk in the Mountain Shop next to Heather Meadows Day Lodge.

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