Schiaparelli’s Packed Front Row, a Golden Yves Saint Laurent, Nolan Gerard Funk Talks Ties

·9 min read

DROPPING IN: Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli show officially opened Paris’ couture week with a jam-packed front row. Emma Watson and Natasha Lyonne met for the first time, while Rita Ora, Brazilian singer Anitta and K-pop star CL exchanged touring tips. With all the action, it was a tight squeeze between the seats and the elevated runway.

“It’s early, but we all showed up in our looks,” Ora said of the trio, divulging that she had just come over on the 6 a.m. Eurostar from London. “The things you do for fashion.”

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Lyonne has been living it up all weekend with director Janicza Bravo in what the pair joked is their official red carpet debut.

“We have a whole life together that we’re working on,” said Lyonne of the trip, which has involved spas, swims and massages. “We’re sort of debuting as lovers properly right now, and we’re using Paris as our entrée to the month that we’re gonna spend in upstate New York,” added Bravo.

The two worked on a Miu Miu short film that premiered in March, and together will be shooting “Poker Face,” Rian Johnson’s upcoming detective drama, with Lyonne executive producing and Bravo directing.

In a chaotic circle of conversation, the duo ultimately described the show as part “Columbo” and part mystery-of-the-week with Lyonne as the lead. It won’t be their last public event though.

“You’ll see us a lot more, don’t worry about us,” joked Bravo, with Lyonne adding: “This is just part of an overall global world takeover that we’re planning.”

Watson returned to Paris Fashion Week after a few years following a chance meeting with Roseberry. “Funny story, I actually just strolled into the store one day not expecting to meet Daniel but he happened to be there,” she said.

They tried on clothes together and when he sent the invite, she asked if she could wear a jacket they had seen that day. “He just feels like a real human being, he’s just really understated and kind,” she said of why she connected with the designer — just before spotting the real star of the show.

“Sorry, I have to go see that dog,” she said as she dashed across the black velvet runway to pet a small white pup a guest had brought as their plus-one.

The trio of pop stars exchanged tour stories and tips. Anitta, who will be jetting from Paris to Poland only to return for Lollapalooza in a week, said “all the important stuff” comes with her after losing luggage one too many times.

Ora said it comes down to one major choice: “Do you eat or do you sleep? It’s like that, it’s hard, it’s hard,” she said of keeping up the pace. “It’s not like the ’70s anymore.

Rita Ora - Credit: Stephane Feugere/WWD
Rita Ora - Credit: Stephane Feugere/WWD

Stephane Feugere/WWD

“I’m going to a premiere tomorrow with my boyfriend for his film,” she added, of hitting the red carpet for Taika Waititi’s “Thor: Love and Thunder.” Ora showed her seatmates pics of the outfit she has planned. But while she wouldn’t divulge if she will be wearing Schiaparelli, she said Roseberry’s designs “really connect with me and my vision.”

An always jubilant Jeremy O. Harris shared that he will be walking in his first Paris show later this week. “I’m all over, just poppin’ around. It’s my first time walking [couture] and I’m really excited,” said the American playwright. His preparation secret? “I’m going to a place called ‘Sweat Lab’ today that all the models told me they love.”

Karlie Kloss also divulged that she will be walking later this week. While the model/activist said the past week has been “tough” in light of the U.S. Supreme Court decisions, she said she is always happy to return to the runway.

“I keep a foot in both. My roots are in fashion and I grew up in this business and it will always be in my heart. Honestly, I just love being on the runway so when it makes sense I love to do it, but so much of what I spend my time on is Code with Klossy and making impact in any way I possibly can. And there’s a lot going on right now,” she said.

The model sported an oversized blazer and some ginormous gold earrings. “I have to admit they are heavy,” she said. “Beauty is pain, right? But they are worth it.” — RHONDA RICHFORD

GOLDEN YEARS: From the buttons on his iconic pea coats to gowns that glitter from head to toe, gold punctuated Yves Saint Laurent’s collections and was an inspiration throughout his career.

The Musée Yves Saint Laurent will celebrate the 60th anniversary of the designer’s first collection under his own name with a monochromatic exhibition exploring his use of gold, set to open Oct. 14 and run through May 14 next year.

A gold sequined gown from Yves Saint Laurent’s fall 1966 haute couture collection photographed by David Bailey. - Credit: David Bailey/Vogue Paris
A gold sequined gown from Yves Saint Laurent’s fall 1966 haute couture collection photographed by David Bailey. - Credit: David Bailey/Vogue Paris

David Bailey/Vogue Paris

The “Gold: Les Ors d’Yves Saint Laurent” exhibition was curated by Elsa Janssen, named director of the Paris museum last March, with the help of art historian Anna Klossowski — daughter of Loulou de la Falaise and Saint Laurent’s goddaughter.

Around 40 haute couture and ready-to-wear gowns, including an allover sequined dress from Saint Laurent’s fall 1966 haute couture collection, photographed by David Bailey, and glittering designs sported by Zizi Jeanmaire and Catherine Deneuve, will be part of the installation. It will explore his use of gilded fabrics like brocade, lace, lamé and leather, his use of sequin and embroidery embellishments, and showcase a selection of accessories, jewelry and other objects. — ALEX WYNNE

TIE SCORE: Nolan Gerard Funk dons some expensive designer suits — Dior, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana — for his role in the upcoming Netflix series “Partner Track,” about the interpersonal dynamics at a New York law firm. Neckties galore, too.

“It was funny because we were shooting in an actual office building, at a real law firm, on the 49th and 51st floors…and there would be people going back to work in the elevator. And they would always look at us and be like, ‘You’re in the show because we don’t wear ties anymore,'” the Canadian actor related with a chuckle.

Nolan Gerard Funk. - Credit: Courtesy of Delvaux
Nolan Gerard Funk. - Credit: Courtesy of Delvaux

Courtesy of Delvaux

Funk, who recently appeared in “Flight Attendant,” was among VIPs mingling in Palais-Royal, where Delvaux had set up an idyllic garden party outside its original Paris boutique. Fans were handed out, but a breeze kept revelers cool as they sipped martinis and rosé wine mixed with strawberry puree.

Dressed in a white linen jacket, Delvaux chief executive officer Jean-Marc Loubier greeted the likes of deejay Laura de Greef, creative director Fredrik Robertsson and French actress Gaïa Weiss, who recently appeared in a Delvaux campaign spotlighting its summery Canvas Story bags and totes.

Belgian musician Sylvie Kreusch capped off the evening with a performance. — MILES SOCHA

GLAM BEACH: Loro Piana is debuting a resortwear collection that pays homage to “La Dolce Vita,” a moniker drawn from Federico Fellini’s namesake movie which epitomizes the quintessentially Italian indulgent lifestyle.

The range of beach-ready options includes the first Loro Piana swimwear collection for women, which draws its colors from earthy and natural nuances including kummel, coral, ocean blue, emerald green and sandy beige.

Crafted from marine and aquatic jerseys, the former with a more decidedly sportswear bent, and the latter coming in bikini and swimsuit versions intended to be worn beyond water sports activities, both are embellished with charms shaped like a wave, life belt, boat and boat’s wheel.

The retail price for the one-piece swimsuit is 360 euros and the bikini goes for 390 euros.

As part of the “La Dolce Vita” collection, the luxury brand under the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton umbrella is also making a push on accessories, globally seen as strong drivers for luxury sales.

The range includes a new iteration of the brand’s signature White Sole slip-ons bearing the same marine-inspired charms of its swimwear with an 860 euro price tag, and a new summer-inflected handbag called Eolian Basket, which plays on the popular panier style.

Loro Piana’s Eolian Basket handbags part of “La Dolce Vita” collection. - Credit: Courtesy of Loro Piana
Loro Piana’s Eolian Basket handbags part of “La Dolce Vita” collection. - Credit: Courtesy of Loro Piana

Courtesy of Loro Piana

Crafted from handwoven regenerated organic cotton in a nod to Loro Piana’s knitwear expertise, the bag is enriched by brown calfskin handles woven, according to the macramé technique. A range of knots inspired by boats’ ropes reference the collection’s marine inflection. It is available in three sizes, including a mini, small and large version, the last two framed in calfskin and bearing additional shoulder handles. The bags retail between 900 euros and 2,200 euros.

The collection, which is complemented by other resortwear options in lightweight fabrics, including underpinnings, breezy shirts, roomy pants and technical anoraks, as well as accessories such as crochet cloche hats and striped flats, is available at the brand’s flagship stores and online. — MARTINO CARRERA

RESORT POP-UP: 10 Corso Como will open a pop-up store in Italy’s luxury resort town Forte dei Marmi on Thursday,  standing for the whole summer season until Sept. 30.

The store spans more than 1,512 square feet on the entire ground floor of a building facing a courtyard of Via Carducci, in the heart of the Tuscan town. A frescoed sundial stands out on the facade.

“I’ve known Forte dei Marmi since I was a child. For me, it’s always been synonymous with summer and I am happy to bring a small part of 10 Corso Como to the sunny Versilia coast,” said Tiziana Fausti, chair of 10 Corso Como.

Similarly to Milan’s storied and original concept store, it reflects the aesthetics of American artist Kris Ruhs, and it will offer a selection of fashion brands from Comme des Garçons and MM6 to Visvim and Yohji Yamamoto.

The airy and light-filled shop shop will also carry a number of co-branded products in agreements with Levi’s, Sacai, Stephen Jones and Maison Margiela, to name a few. Design objects from Cassina or a bicycle from Rossignoli as well as fragrances from Laboratorio Olfattivo and Paris-based Miller & Bertoux will also be available.

Last year, 10 Corso Como celebrated its 30th anniversary, coinciding with a new phase after Fausti in 2020 took over the brand and the company branch that manages the store and its restaurant, aiming for international and online expansion.

The retailer is now under the direction and business development of Fausti and the artistic, image and communication direction of founder Carla Sozzani. The store reflects her personal taste, pioneering a retail concept that blends fashion, cuisine, art, music, design and lifestyle and over the years carrying brands from Balenciaga, Prada and Maison Margiela to Dries Van Noten and Azzedine Alaïa — the late designer a close friend of Sozzani’s.

 

Inside the 10 Corso Como pop-up in Forte dei Marmi. - Credit: Celian courtesy of 10 Corso Como
Inside the 10 Corso Como pop-up in Forte dei Marmi. - Credit: Celian courtesy of 10 Corso Como

Celian courtesy of 10 Corso Como

There are two existing 10 Corso Como units in Seoul, opened in 2008 and 2012, respectively in Cheongdam and Avenuel. — LUISA ZARGANI

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