Men’s wear generally takes a backseat to women’s during New York Fashion Week, and this year was no exception, with most of the big names merely sprinkling a couple of men’s looks into their shows. But there were a handful of men’s-specific showings, nearly all during New York Men’s Day, which returned with a flourish on Wednesday with 10 emerging designers presenting their collections at two separate showcases at Canoe Studios on Manhattan’s far west side. KoH T, Onyrmrk, Stan, Teddy Vonranson and William Frederick showed in the morning while A.Potts, Carter Young, Chelsea Grays, Fried Rice and The Stolen Garment displayed their wares in the afternoon. In nearly all the collections, colorful prints and patterns were juxtaposed with a subdued palette of neutrals in soft sportswear and slouchy tailored clothing. Here are a few of the standouts.
Courtesy of Stan
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The look: Designer Tristan Detwiler continued his use of antique textiles to produce one-of-a-kind pieces from repurposed fabrics. But this time, in addition to using quilts, the look he has become known for — and criticized for as a copycat of the Bode collection — the surfer and model stepped out into other materials such as duffel bags, terrycloth and crocheted cotton.
Quote of note: “This is a continuation of my practice as an artist,” he said, adding that he sourced many of the textiles for the spring line from communities around the world. Front and center at his presentation was one of the members of the Bumann Quilters in his home state of California, a group that welcomed him as a member and taught him how to most effectively rework antique quilts.
Key pieces: The see now, buy now line of patchwork blazers, bomber-style jackets, knee-length shorts and coats created with quilts were juxtaposed this season with a crocheted pullover with a fringed bottom over matching shorts, a jacket from World War II duffel bags that was screen-printed with photographs of where he learned to surf in San Diego, and a terrycloth set. One of the most personal pieces was a coat and shorts in a yellow sunburst quilt pattern that Detwiler said was created from a piece owned by his great-great-grandmother.
The takeaway: His use of textiles other than quilts added a new, and welcome, dimension to the collection.
Courtesy of Teddy Vonranson
The look: Although known for his reinterpretations of American classics, designer Teddy von Ranson traveled to French Polynesia and the paintings of Paul Gauguin for inspiration for his spring collection.
Quote of note: “I took a European eye to classic American surf culture,” he said, pointing to rich colors, strong shapes and eye-catching prints that he used to offer a new take on several traditional silhouettes such as cropped peacoats, softly constructed suits, wide-legged sailor pants, track shorts and leather bomber jackets.
Key pieces: While many of the pieces were familiar, von Ranson’s use of materials pushed them to another level. For example, he used exploded Hawaiian prints on short-shorts in addition to the classic button-down, and a fisherman’s sweater was offered up in a V-neck style without sleeves. The designer also used cummerbund-style belts in both solids and florals, to update slouchy pants and blazers. But the showstopper was a coat he created from raffia, a fabric he also used in accessories such as bags.
Takeaway: With this collection, von Ranson took a giant step forward in his men’s wear journey.
Courtesy of Carter Young
Carter Altman got his start in the fashion industry at the tender age of 15, with stints at Kith and Helmut Lang. With that rich résumé, the Detroit native presented the spring collection for his unisex label Carter Young, drawing inspiration from traditional men’s wear staples and aesthetics that blended classic tailoring, charming details, and simple silhouettes.
The look: Classic Americana staples with undertones of Western meets Vaudeville.
Quote of note: “There is a bit of undertone of horror and intrigue where I am from, so I am trying to represent those visions of Americana on bodies that aren’t typically represented.”
Key pieces: A cropped tan linen suit with a structured shoulder, an upcycled tailored and cropped bolero style jacket with copper boulion trim originally produced in France from 1930 and originally used for military uniforms, and a matching jacket and denim set with a graphic white and black collage of horses.
The takeaway: Altman’s denim and separates feel playful and unconventional, yet would still blend into any wardrobe for easy everyday wear.
Courtesy of ONYRMRK
Los Angeles-based Mark Kim and Rwang Pam’s Onyrmrk offers up comfortable men’s ready-to-wear with an eco-conscious, ethical edge. For their spring collection — and first time showing during New York Men’s Day — the duo focused on their emotions and reflections post-COVID-19 with a lineup that blurs the lines of sexuality through a genderless undertone.
The look: Flowy and oversize constructions marked by earthy and black tones with generous layers.
Quote of note: “We looked to evoke softness, either in tactility or essence, because there is power in softness. We also sought to offer versatility in each garment, creating opportunities for one to ultimately define elegance for themselves. Our goal is to create space so people like us can find themselves and express themselves freely,” Pam said.
Key pieces: Billowing shirts with ties, relaxed and baggy trousers with slit openings at the bottom, oversize shirt jackets with utility detailing and flowy U-neck transparent tops.
The takeaway: Onyrmrk covered all the bases for that someone who may want to wear something traditional one day and more trend-focused the next.
Courtesy of Fried Rice
Fried Rice is distinguished by its unisex approach, quirky “mashed up” creativity, inventive styling details and mad obsession with outstanding fabrics. For spring, designer Maya Wang sought to celebrate the diversity of creative perspectives by bringing together a cast where everyone had an artistic or entrepreneurial mission. The roster of creatives included musician Annalise Azadian, dancer Amir Panahi, photographer Sissi Lu, musician Hass Irv and trans model and photographer Z Walsh.
The look: A mix of streetwear staples with oversize shapes, playful pockets and bright colors.
Quote of note: “If we were going to make an authentic contribution to New York Fashion Week, we would want to share what makes us most excited and inspired about what we are doing here: being a part of a dynamic creative community.”
Key pieces: A powder blue corduroy jacket and trousers set with utility pocket detailing, multicolored striped silk camp shirt, a tan oversize tan jacket with matching oversize pockets paired with a pastel-colored plaid camp shirt, and a military green cargo pant with oversize pocket detailing.
The takeaway: The brand’s goal is to celebrate the diversity of artistic and cultural perspectives in urban life in New York City and around the world, and Wang’s distinct point of view is helping bring that to fruition.
Launch Gallery: Stan Men's Spring 2022