The best restaurants in Dublin
Vibrant Dublin has more to it's name than historical venues. It is a city full of culinary delights from seafood fresh from Dublin Bay, and trendy little eateries designed to line the pre-theatre stomach, to wonderfully traditional Irish flavours and artisan cafés with sinfully good desserts. Get tasting with Telegraph Travel's Dublin expert, Neil Hegarty.
Expert guide to Dublin
Dublin City
Noshington
Lizzy O'Sullivan has made Noshington, at the corner of Washington (geddit?) Street on Dublin's southside, a cut above the standard neighbourhood cafe. There's an ever-changing, inventive menu accompanied by excellent coffee – or jugs of home-made lemonade. Breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch are done beautifully: try the smashed avocado and poached eggs on home-made brown bread (€8.50/£7.56); while the red velvet cake and Malteser tarts are to die for. Outdoor seating for sunny weather too!
Contact: 00 353 1 410 0414; noshington.ie
Price: £
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 8.30pm-7pm; Sat-Sun, 10am-6pm
Reservations: Walk-ins only
Drury Buildings
Flexibility is the name of the game here. The bar downstairs is good for weekend brunch and for casual bites too, plus a copious cocktail menu. There’s a large, relaxed restaurant on the first floor, and a dinky garden area out back. The look? Distressed brick walls, sporting chunks of exposed mortar and steel beams; sleek, rather nice 1950s-era furniture; and parquet floors. Try the very good pre-theatre menu: wonderful Burren Smokehouse salmon perhaps, with meaty halibut to follow.
Contact: 00 353 1 960 2095; drurybuildings.com
Price: £££
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 12pm-3pm, 5pm-10pm; Fri, Sat, 12pm-3pm, 5pm-10.30pm; Sun, 12pm-4pm.
Reservations: Recommended
Chapter One
Justly famed, Chapter One has been serving up contemporary Irish cuisine-with-a-French-twist for over 20 years. The dining room is comfortable and elegant, with all those starched white tablecloths nicely offset by warm lighting and exposed brick walls. Ross Lewis's food is serious and not cheap: the à la carte prices reflect its Michelin-starred rating – but there are excellent set-price lunch and pre-theatre options too. Combine a Chapter One pre-theatre meal with a visit to the Gate Theatre just a few minutes’ walk away.
Contact: 00 353 1 872 3366; chapteronerestaurant.com
Price: £££
Opening times: Tue-Fri, 12.30pm-2pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm; Sat, 7.30pm-10.30pm
Reservations: Essential
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The Winding Stair
Once upon a time, The Winding Stair’s spacious premises housed a beloved second-hand bookshop and café. Today, it’s a top-notch, Irish-focused restaurant: retaining the name, and emphasising food provenance, with ingredients sourced from local providers. Think meltingly tender beef, Irish charcuterie, Burren smoked fish, excellent cheeseboards, a good range of craft beers and smart wine list. The ambience is marvellous: bentwood chairs, and polished wooden tables and floorboards. And there's still a bookshop on the ground floor...
Contact: 00 353 1 872 7320; winding-stair.com
Price: £££
Opening times: Daily, 12pm-3.30pm and 5.30pm-10.30pm
Reservations: Essential
Best table: Ask for a window table, for fine views of the Ha’penny Bridge and river Liffey.
Trocadero
Beloved of Dublin’s theatrical establishment, this place has been a fixture on the city’s restaurant scene for over 50 years. It offers plush banquette seating, dim lighting and a dreamy intimacy – not to mention crimson-painted walls crowded with photographs of the actors who have dined here. Try the beet-cured smoked salmon to begin, followed by a beautifully fresh piece of Kilmore Quay black sole, with a tangy lime cheesecake to finish. The pre-theatre menu is nicely up to scratch.
Contact: 00 353 1 677 5545; trocadero.ie
Price: £££
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 5pm-11.45pm; Sat, 4pm-11.45pm
Reservations: Recommended
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Dax
The dining room at smart, stylish Dax reflects a certain period charm, with flagged floors, open fires and a smattering of good modern art. Olivier Meisonnave offers modern French cuisine with an Irish twist: the inspiration and the extensive wine list are French, but the ingredients showcase the best of Irish artisan produce. Try a fish feast: the seared scallops, then the firm, juicy turbot, with a selection of fine French and Sheridan's Irish cheeses to finish.
Contact: 00 353 1 676 1494; dax.ie
Price: £££
Opening times: Tue-Fri, 12.30pm-2pm, 6pm-9.30pm; Sat, 6pm-10pm
Reservations: Essential
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Fallon & Byrne
In the atmospheric wine cellar at Fallon & Byrne, you can select from more than 600 wines and drink your choice on the spot – corkage charge on 'Happy Mondays' is only one euro – with an all-day selection of charcuterie, cheese and smoked fish boards as a good accompaniment. Alternatively, head upstairs to the sunny dining room, where an elegant à la carte menu is always accompanied by good-value set lunch and pre-theatre options. Reservations are not possible in the wine cellar.
Contact: 00 353 1 472 1000; fallonandbyrne.com
Price: ££
Opening times: Varies; check restaurant for details
Reservations: Essential
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Neon
Bustling Neon is one of the brightest eateries along Camden Street. 'Asian street food' is the tag line: and certainly it’s authentic– and delicious; try the Mekong duck breast with Asian basil and chili. There are a handful of smaller tables, but the space is dominated by a long communal table in dark wood, which seems to add more flavour to the general buzz. This is an in-and-out sort of place; don't hang around – and don’t neglect the ice-cream machine in the corner.
Contact: 00 353 1 405 2222; neon17.ie
Price: ££
Opening times: Daily, 12pm-11pm
Reservations: Walk-ins only
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Chez Max
Chez Max offers a short menu of French classics combined with smart service and affordable prices. The Baggot Street branch, in the basement of one of the area's Georgian townhouses, offers the added allure of outdoor (and heated) seating. You can't go wrong with the steak frites, with green beans on the side; and the wine list – all French, naturellement – is voluminous. The original branch at 1, Palace Street is much smaller, but its location beside the main entrance to Dublin Castle adds a certain je ne sais quoi.
Contact: 00 353 1 661 8899; chezmax.ie
Price: ££
Opening times: Varies; check website for details
Reservations: Recommended
Ely Place
Visit the duo of Ely wine bars for a global wine list and an extensive food menu that emphasises local and organic produce. The original branch on Ely Place promises subterranean comfort and discretion; its sister is housed in the spectacular CHQ building where the old, brick-lined vaults have been converted into a dramatic eating space. Try the County Down scallops to begin, with the classic organic Burren beefburger to follow – crowd-pleasing classics executed with competence.
Contact: 00 353 1 672 0010; elywinebar.ie
Price: ££
Opening times: Mon-Sat, 12pm-midnight; Sun, 12pm-6pm
Reservations: Recommended
Best table: Grab an outdoor table, for views over the lovely CHQ harbour basin.
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Wuff
This sleek and hip little nook sits confidently on its corner on gritty Benburb Street where good restaurants are hard to come by. With its cool grey interior and banquettes, mirrors and large windows, it’s an attractive place, with confident cooking and excellent coffee. This is a perfect spot for weekend brunch – and a great alternative to the glum café at the National Museum of Ireland at Collins Barracks, just a few minutes' stroll away.
Contact: 00 353 1 532 0347; wuff.ie
Price: ££
Opening times: Mon-Wed, 8am-4pm; Thu, Fri, 8am-9.30pm; Sat, 10am-9.30pm; Sun, 10am-4pm
Reservations: Recommended
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Delahunt
Occupying a former Dublin pub, and boasting intact mahogany fixtures and fittings, Delahunt is simply exquisite. And so, happily, is the food: the short, sharp menu is as polished as the bar; and imaginative vegetarian options are always available. The wine list is concise and very European. Weekends are busy, so choose a weekday night for a relaxed treat – and after dinner, repair to the beautiful and comfortable Fifties-style cocktail bar upstairs.
Contact: 00 353 1 598 4880; delahunt.ie
Price: ££
Opening times: Mon, 8.30am-3.30pm; Tue-Fri, 8.30am-3.30pm and 5pm-9.30pm; Sat, 5pm-9.30pm.
Reservations: Recommended
Best table: Ask for the snug table-for-two in the window
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Osteria Lucio
Delightful Osteria Lucio, located under the railway arches at Grand Canal Dock, offers a smart, original take on Italian-with-a-twist cuisine. A few superior wood-fired pizzas, delectable fresh pasta, good Irish beef (this is the twist), a short and quirky list of regional Italian wines – and a wonderful cocktail menu. It's all done very well and there's a great buzz here in the evenings. Try the well-priced pre-theatre menu if you're off to the BGE Theatre, just a short stroll away.
Contact: 00 353 1 662 4199; osterialucio.com
Price: ££
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 12pm-3pm, 5pm-10pm; Sat, 5pm-10.30pm; Sun, 5pm-10pm
Reservations: Recommended
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Pepper Pot
A gleaming star in the Dublin café firmament, the Pepper Pot offers delicious and thoughtful breakfast, lunch and tea options from a bright balcony above the glazed atrium of the Powerscourt Centre. Excellent salads too, plus a judicious selection of freshly-baked cakes and sweet things; and home-made jams and chutneys. The sesame-seed-sprinkled sausage roll is a perfect morning pick-me-up, while the roasted pear and bacon sandwich will set you up for the rest of the day.
Contact: 00 353 1 707 1610; thepepperpot.ie
Price: £
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm; Sat, 9am-6pm; Sun, 12pm-6pm
Reservations: walk-ins only
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Gaillot et Gray
Gilles Gaillot and Emma Gray established this Franco-Irish enterprise less than two years ago – and it has found its niche, as one of the best and most atmospheric places to eat in the city. It's a bakery by day, selling excellent sourdough, coffee, salads and sandwiches. After 4pm it morphs into a pizzeria (made using Emmental, not mozzarella) and wine bar. Think short, smart menus: pizza, and a few choice French wines served up in funky, low-key surroundings. There's a lovely little garden at the back too.
Contact: 00 353 1 454 7781; facebook.com/gaillotgrayp
Price: ££
Opening times: Tue-Sat, 8am-10pm
Reservations: Walk-ins only
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Craft
This is one of the best of Dublin's new neighbourhood restaurants, and is worth the trip from the city centre to Harold's Cross. Philip Yeung's establishment offers smart, modern Irish/European cuisine: fresh seafood, excellent meats, luxurious desserts – and the best of local ingredients. Try the County Mayo pork belly, followed by a vivid rhubarb mousse with meringue. Lunch, an excellent Early Bird (‘Neighbourhood’) menu, and a weekend brunch, are also on offer.
Contact: 00 353 1 497 8632; craftrestaurant.ie
Price: ££
Opening times: Wed, 6pm-9.30pm; Thu, 5.30pm-9.30pm; Fri-Sat, 12pm-3pm and 5.30pm-9.30pm; Sun, 11am-3pm
Reservations: Recommended
Best table: At the front to appreciate the views
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Etto
A real little gem right in the heart of the city – and with only 38 covers in its long, narrow dining room, 'little' really is the operative word. Come here for a wonderful, buzzing vibe, and for honest and delicious Italian food that's cooked simply, using excellent ingredients. The menu is short – try the venison tartare, and the sherry-braised pig cheek – and there's a super, European-dominated wine list on hand, too.
Contact: 00 353 1 678 8872; etto.ie
Price: ££
Opening times: Mon-Wed, 12pm-9.30pm; Thu-Fri, 12pm-10pm; Sat, 12.30pm-10pm
Reservations: Recommended but walk-ins accepted
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The Fumbally
This bright, friendly joint is a neighbourhood sort of place: quite funky, industrial chic mixed up with sofas, standard lamps and scattered pouffes. You’ll find terrific organic coffee and baking, but the beautifully fresh savoury element is the central plank of the operation: try the falafel sandwich heaped with salad, or the green eggs and ham. Very family-friendly, and very popular; expect to table share if you arrive at peak time. Try the gregarious Wednesday dinner, when the café stays open late.
Contact: 00 353 1 529 8732; thefumbally.ie
Price: £
Opening times: Tue and Thur-Fri, 8am-5pm; Wed, 8am-5pm and 7pm-9.30pm; Sat, 10am-5pm
Reservations: Walk-ins only
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Murphy's Ice Cream
Suggesting an ice-cream on a damp Dublin day might not sound like the best idea, but do sample Murphy’s ice-creams as you saunter along Wicklow Street in the city centre. This is serious stuff: the brand originates in Dingle, County Kerry, and it’s made of Kerry cream. Try the delicious sorbets, which change with the season – blackcurrant in high summer, for example, and cranberry in winter. This little shop has seating tucked in at the back, and it also offers chocolate fare and coffee.
Contact: 00 353 86 031 0726; murphysicecream.ie
Price: £
Opening times: Daily, 12pm-10pm
Reservations: Walk-ins only
Dolce Sicily
Dinky and sweet, Dolce Sicily is a lovely café offering what appears at first sight to be standard fare – soup and panini – but the ingredients are first class and authentically Italian; try the mild and fragrant fennel salami. The main event, however, are the desserts and cakes: try the crisp cannoli filled with vanilla or chocolate cream, the strawberry cake, the pineapple upside-down cake or the moist and rich Nutella tart. Bear in mind, Dolce Sicily fills up fast at lunchtime.
Contact: 00 353 86 840 7360; dolcesicily.ie
Price: £
Opening times: Mon-Wed, 7.30am-8.30pm; Thu-Fri, 7.30am-9pm; Sat, 9am-9pm; Sun, 10am-8.30pm
Reservations: Walk-ins only
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Lock's
Lock’s has been a Dublin fixture for decades, enjoying an excellent reputation and a beautiful location on the banks of the Grand Canal. Today, it’s under new management – but the charm of the place has not faded. The cooking today is contemporary Irish, with the best of local ingredients. Try the smoked Irish trout with seaweed butter, and the shank of aged venison to follow. There’s another dining room upstairs, quieter and with fine canal views – lovely on a summer evening.
Contact: 00 353 1 416 3655; locksrestaurant.ie
Price: £££
Opening times: Tue-Thu, 5.30pm-9.30pm; Fri-Sat, 12.30pm-2.3opm and 5.30pm-9.30pm; Sun, 12pm-6pm
Reservations: Recommended
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Bewley's
It's impossible to visit Dublin and not investigate the new incarnation of Bewley’s, reopened after years of restoration. This fine old coffee house was a firm favourite for close on a century, and its recent reappearance is a cheering sight. Come here for coffee, savouries, sweet treats (including the signature Bewley’s cherry buns, and ‘Mary cake’, a rich confection of apricot and chocolate) – and to admire the glorious Harry Clarke stained-glass windows which illuminate the café.
Contact: 00 353 564 0900; bewleys.com
Price: ££
Opening times: Mon-Wed and Fri-Sat, 8am-8pm; Thu, 8am-9pm; Sun, 9am-8pm.
Reservations: Walk-ins only
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Garden Room
Recently inaugurated and overlooking the lovely garden quadrangle at the Merrion Hotel, the Garden Room restaurant is one of the most pleasant dining spaces in Dublin. It offers a changing menu of snacks, light lunches, coffees, afternoon tea – all leading up to the main event of a wonderful dining experience. Try the sweet and tender culatello with sourdough, and the steamed halibut with a tomato consommé; while the raspberry soufflé is divine. Service is top-notch, and the wine list is impressive.
Contact: 00 353 603 0608; thegardenroom.ie
Price: £££
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 7am-10.30am and 12.30pm-10pm; Sat-Sun, 7am-11am and 12.30pm-10pm
Reservations: Recommended
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Cavistons
Famous Cavistons is simply one of the best fish and seafood restaurants Dublin, and a great place to which to repair after a bracing walk on the Dún Laoghaire seafront. It’s an idiosyncratic place: tiny; they run three sittings a day for lunch and two for dinner; and fish really is king here. Try the fresh sardines, and the haddock with tangy samphire if available, but always go with the seasons here. The oak-smoked salmon is a speciality of the house: do visit the deli next-door.
Contact: 00 353 1 280 9245; cavistons.com
Price: ££
Opening times: Lunch sittings: Tue-Sat, 12pm-1.30pm, 1.30pm-3pm; 3pm-5pm. Dinner sittings: Thu-Sat, 6pm-8pm, 8.15pm-10.30pm
Reservations: Essential
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The House
The House occupies a lovely spot on one of Howth's steep, atmospheric streets. Drop in for breakfast, brunch or afternoon tea; have a good lunch after a stroll on the pier; or step out in the evening to sample the smart dinner menu. The dining room – bentwood chairs, cream walls and wood-burning stove – is elegant without undue formality, and al fresco eating is a possibility. Try the daily roast-in-a-roll (€8.95/£7.97), and the excellent all-Irish cheese and charcuterie boards.
Contact: 00 353 1 839 6388; thehouse-howth.ie
Price: ££
Opening times: Mon, 8.45am-4pm; Tue-Thu, 8.45am-9.30pm; Fri, 8.45am-10.30am; Sat, 10am-10.30pm; Sun, 10am-9pm
Reservations: Recommended