The 20 greatest cities for an autumn break (and where to stay)
As the crowds depart, it's time to soak up the urban charms of Europe. We pick 20 of the best destinations, from Barcelona to Bruges.
1. Amsterdam
Why go?
Forget spring flowers and songs about tulips: autumn is the time to visit Amsterdam. The city is at its best as the summer gently fades, as leaves on the trees along the canals turn shades of brown and drop to reveal even better views of historic gables, and as people slowly withdraw from terraces into the cosy warmth of wood-panelled cafés. This season, you get two cities for one with an exhibition at the Van Gogh Museum (vangoghmuseum.nl; Oct 13 to Jan 7) on Dutch painters (Van Gogh, Breitner, Mondrian) who were inspired by Paris.
Where to stay
Lovers of design will adore the minimalist clarity offset by eye-catching contemporary artworks and intriguing furniture at the newly opened Kimpton de Witt (doubles from £175). Alternatively, opt for the revamped Hotel Arena (doubles £108), where Dutch minimalism meets Seventies retro.
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2. Barcelona
Why go?
Autumn is when Barcelona really comes alive, with a full programme of events and exhibitions, the most notable of which is the Andy Warhol retrospective at the CaixaForum (caixaforum.es; until Dec 31). In the run up to Christmas, don’t miss the fairy-tale market huddled around the Cathedral (Dec 11-24).
Where to stay
New for 2017 is Room Mate Anna (doubles £150), a playful design hotel with funky interiors and a stylish rooftop pool in the heart of Eixample; The Wittmore (doubles £175), well located in Barri Gòtic, has a gentlemen’s club vibe and a cosy bar complete with crackling fire for cool evenings.
3. Berlin
Why go?
Berlin is at its most charming during autumn, thanks mainly to the city’s abundant parks (around 2,500), public gardens and tree-lined streets, which transform into a blaze of reds, oranges and yellows. During October you can visit the Festival of Lights (festival-of-lights.de; Oct 6-15) or catch an exhibition during the European Month of Photography (emop-berlin.eu; Oct 1-31).
Where to stay
Recently opened Provocateur Berlin (doubles £132) offers a flamboyant and seductive interior by Israeli hotshot Saar Zafrir, a fabulous Asian-themed restaurant by celebrated local chef Duc Ngo, and a glamorous bar that’s buzzing at weekends. Service is classy and welcoming. Five-star Das Stue (doubles £184) matches period charm with funky interiors.
4. Bruges
Why go?
The crowds have thinned, the low, golden sun catches the spires and gables, fallen leaves skitter over the cobbles, and restaurants and hotels light their log fires. The Groeningemuseum (visitbruges.be) promises a dazzling show focusing on the 16th-century artist Pieter Pourbus (Oct 13 to Jan 21), and don’t miss the festive Christmas market from Nov 24 to Jan 1 when the historic city centre glows with low-lit stalls – clustered around an ice-rink – selling crafts and seasonal snacks, interspersed with genial pop-up bars offering Glühwein and jenever gin.
Where to stay
Find boutique bliss at Hotel Van Cleef (doubles £155), which has 15 beautifully presented rooms and a pretty canal-side location; Canal Deluxe (doubles £145), an exceptional B&B with cosy interiors and oodles of charm, is perfect for romantics.
5. Budapest
Why go?
Budapest is lovely in autumn, when the sun mellows and the parks turn honey-coloured. Visit during the CAFe Contemporary Arts Festival (budapestinfo.hu; Oct 6-22), when performances of music, dance and theatre are staged in 40 venues around the city. Come winter and there’s romance in the air, with al-fresco skating on the lake in City Park (mujegpalya.hu), and Christmas markets selling traditional wooden toys and steaming cups of mulled wine. For dates, see: budapest.com.
Where to stay
The Corinthia (doubles £115), with its dizzying array of restaurants and top-notch spa, carries itself with an effortless grace that no other five-star in Budapest quite matches. Gerlóczy (doubles £68), a much-loved café-with-rooms popular with locals, offers an authentic slice of the city.
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6. Copenhagen
Why go?
One of Copenhagen’s autumn highlights is Culture Night (kulturnatten.dk; Oct 13) when hundreds of museums, churches and other institutions open up behind-the-scenes areas, and lay on special activities, talks and exhibitions. It’s also time for some seasonal fun at Tivoli Gardens (tivoli.dk): Hallowe’en (Oct 13-Nov 5) sees the gardens all decked out with suitably spooky decorations and countless pumpkins; two weeks later they reopen in Christmas mode (Nov 18-Dec 31), with fairy lights everywhere and dozens of wooden chalets selling handicrafts, decorations and seasonal foods.
Where to stay
Revamped 71 Nyhavn (doubles £150) is currently among the city’s most stylish places to stay (think rustic Pomeranian pine alongside contemporary Danish design influences). Or opt for Hotel D’Angleterre (doubles £350), which is favoured by rock stars and royalty.
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7. Dubrovnik
Why go?
As the summer crowds depart, tranquillity returns to Dubrovnik’s stone alleys – cruise ships still call here, but tourist numbers (and hotel prices) drop dramatically. You can walk the city walls and have a candlelit supper in relative peace. On nearby Peljesac peninsula, the grape harvest is underway, making this a lovely moment to take a wine tasting tour. In town, the Good Food Festival (tzdubrovnik.hr; Oct 19-22) sees cookery workshops, special menus and culinary walks.
Where to stay
Romantic St Joseph’s (doubles £295) occupies a beautifully restored 16th-century stone building in the walled Old Town. The chic suites border on boudoir with crystal chandeliers, indulgent beds and sumptuous fabrics.
8. Edinburgh
Why go?
The New Town takes on a golden glow in the soft autumn light and the Old Town becomes moodily atmospheric as the evenings draw in. Time your visit for the Edinburgh Restaurant Festival (edinevents.com/edinburgh-restaurant-festival; Oct 16-29) and you’ll find discounts and special offers everywhere, from pop-ups to farmer’s markets, local cafés to the city’s best restaurants. If you’ve an appetite for culture, catch Constable & McTaggart : A Meeting of Two Masterpieces at the Scottish National Gallery (nationalgalleries.org; until Mar 25).
Where to stay
There’s a cool concept at newly unveiled Eden Locke (doubles £140), where the Instagrammable interiors (think on-trend pastels, spiky plants and statement lighting) are injected with a Brooklyn hipster vibe. Prestonfield House (doubles £190), on the outskirts of the city, is a shamelessly seductive country house hotel complete with log fires and a fine dining restaurant.
9. Florence
Why go?
Temperatures in Florence can be mild until well into November. Around mid-October, the crowds begin to disperse, museum queues dwindle and hotel prices come down. Don’t miss an exhibition showcasing the Florentine Cinquecento with works by Michelangelo, Bronzino, Vasari et al at Palazzo Strozzi (palazzostrozzi.org; from Sept 21 to Jan 21), then nip around the corner for a glass of fizz and an autumnal truffle cream sandwich at historic Procacci 1885 (procacci1885.it).
Where to stay
The delightful Hotel Lungarno (doubles £205), located just steps from the Ponte Vecchio, has recently emerged from a glittering six-month facelift. Happily, the retro air, five-star service and gourmet dining are still very much at the heart of the hotel. AdAstra (doubles £94), with its private gardens and rarefied atmosphere, is a boutique hotel with the feel of an aristocratic private apartment.
10. Lisbon
Why go?
The cultural event of the season is Joan Miró: Materiality and Metamorphosis at Palacio Nacional da Ajuda (palacioajuda.gov.pt; until Jan 8), which documents the artist’s career from 1924 to 1981. Film buffs should time their trip to coincide with the Lisbon & Sintra Film Festival (leffest.com; Nov 17-26), while December brings a rich repertoire of Christmas concerts at venues across the city. For more information, see: egeac.pt.
Greatest best cities
Where to stay
The Lumiares (doubles £164), a new addition to the Bairro Alto district, is housed in a beautifully renovated 18th-century palace complete with spacious suites, an elegant spa and a rooftop restaurant and bar courtesy of acclaimed chef Miguel Castro e Silva. Heritage Avenue Liberdade (doubles £128) is a cool and contemporary bolthole surrounded by some of the city’s most elegant designer shops.
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11. London
Why go?
With the tourist crowds subsiding and the city’s parks and squares turning golden, Londoners share a sense of quiet pleasure at the approach of autumn. And the subsequent winter chill provides impetus to explore the capital’s array of blockbuster exhibitions, including: Basquiat: Boom for Real at the Barbican (barbican.org.uk; Sept 21 to Jan 28), Balenciaga at the V&A (vam.ac.uk; until Feb 18) and Harry Potter: A History of Magic at the British Library (bl.uk; Oct 20 to Feb 28).
Where to stay
Claridge’s (doubles £390) remains one of the capital’s most glamorous places to stay. On the other side of town, The Curtain (doubles £230), a hipster hangout with handsome rooms, tequila bar and glamorous rooftop pool, is Shoreditch’s hippest new opening.
12. Madrid
Why go?
The extreme heat has subsided but it is still warm enough to sit at a terrace café and the cultural scene is buzzing too. Highlights of the season include Carmen at the Teatro Real (teatro-real.com; Oct 11 to Nov 11) and the Picasso/Lautrec exhibition at the Thyssen-Bornemisza museum (museothyssen.org; Oct 17 to Jan 21).
Where to stay
Serious luxury has come to Madrid with the opening of the five-star Gran Melia Palacio de los Duques (doubles £250). Superb service, luxe materials, outstanding food and soothing design combine to create a secret haven in the heart of the city. Posado del Leon de Oro (doubles £60) is a smart four-star with a buzzing tapas bar.
13. Marrakech
Why go?
The city’s big cultural event for autumn is the eagerly awaited opening of the Yves St Laurent Museum (museeyslmarrakech.com) on Oct 19. Fashionistas will delight at the rotating display of haute couture pieces, sketches and photographs from the iconic designer. October is also the perfect time for wandering the city’s public gardens, as well as catching new exhibits at galleries such as David Bloch (davidblochgallery.com) and Galerie 127 (galerienathalielocatelli.com) in the trendy Gueliz district. Or visit in December for the city’s celebrated film festival (festivalmarrakech.info).
Where to stay
Embrace the fashion vibe at L’Hotel (doubles £385), the first hotel from the designer Jasper Conran and home to pieces from his private collection of art and antique furniture. Fashion duo Cyrielle and Julien are behind Riad Jardin Secret (doubles £95), where five soulful rooms are arranged around a flourishing garden.
14. Paris
Why go?
The city thrums with new life for the autumn “Rentrée”. The café terrasses fill once more and cultural events abound. In early October, Yves Saint Laurent’s former studio on Avenue Marceau reopens as Musée YSL (fondation-pb-ysl.net), while the Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton (fondationlouisvuitton.fr) will host a haul of MoMA’s masterpieces for Being Modern, opening Oct 11.
Where to stay
Instagram satisfaction is guaranteed at the Hoxton Paris (doubles £155), where original 18th-century period details collide with on-point décor to create the city’s hippest new hotel. Drawing Hotel (doubles £198) is an art-themed address with bright rooms that provide a refreshing counterpoint to the historic grandeur of the neighbouring Louvre.
15. Prague
Why go?
Autumn is a fantastic time to visit the Czech capital. Not only are its handsome baroque and neo-renaissance facades bathed in the season’s soft light, but local wine tastings are ubiquitous, and music fans can enjoy seasonal festivals like the Dvorak Prague Festival (dvorakovapraha.cz; until Sept 23), Strings of Autumn (strunypodzimu.cz; Oct 20-Nov 9) and AghaRTA jazz (agharta.cz; Oct 2 -Nov 15).
Where to stay
Four Seasons Prague (doubles £298) remains one of the city’s plushest and best-located hotels. Décor and furnishings are a mix of classic and modern, service is impeccable throughout and all just moments from Charles Bridge. The romantic Nicholas Hotel Residence (doubles £68) has nine charming rooms and great breakfasts.
16. Reykjavik
Why go?
There are many great reasons to visit Reykjavik in autumn. For one thing the crowds are thinner, but it’s also the season where prices for hotels and car hire fall, the cosiness of the city’s cafés and bars begins to emerge, and there’s more chance of seeing the Northern Lights too. Don’t miss The City Being exhibition at Nordic House (nordichouse.is; until Nov 5), which explores various aspects of our modern cities, with Reykjavik as the main focus, or visit during the annual Airwaves music festival (icelandairwaves.is; Nov 1-5) which showcases new Icelandic and international talent.
Where to stay
Canopy by Hilton Reykjavik (doubles £204) boasts a central location, stylish rooms, hot pool and a dedicated karaoke room. Uber-cool hostel Oddsson (doubles £27) gives some of the city’s boutique hotels a run for their money in terms of interior design as well as facilities. Aside from a range of private rooms, it also offers a yoga room and rooftop pool.
17. Rome
Why go?
This autumn, three major exhibitions make the Italian capital a cultural magnet: Picasso’s journey from Cubism to Neoclassicism is charted at the Scuderie del Quirinale (scuderiequirinale.it; Sept 22 to Jan 21), while the Ara Pacis showcases Japanese artist Hokusai (ara-pacis-museum.com; Oct 12 to Jan 14) and Monet takes over the Complesso del Vittoriano (ilvittoriano.com; Oct 19-Feb 11).
Where to stay?
Hotel Eden (doubles £675) reopened earlier this year after an 18-month refurbishment and it was well worth the wait: visit chic rooftop La Terrazza restaurant and adjacent Il Giardino Restaurant and Bar for the views as well as the food and drink. Albergo del Senato (doubles £115), located near the Pantheon, stands out for a delightful rooftop terrace and elegant decor.
18. Seville
Why go?
Seville’s cultural life kicks off in autumn against a backdrop of warm days and mild evenings. Catch Spanish impressionist Sorolla’s glorious A Garden to Paint (until Oct 15), and Andalucia in the Imagination of Fortuny (Sept 21 to Jan 7) at the new, avant-garde CaixaForum (obrasociallacaixa.org). Celebrations of Golden Age painter Murillo’s 400th anniversary continue with a programme of concerts and exhibitions, see: murilloensevilla.com.
Where to stay
Mercer Seville (doubles £245) is a temple to contemporary design with sharply-styled interiors and cutting-edge comforts. Casa del Poeta (doubles £140), housed in a 17th-century mansion, is so discreet it doesn’t even have a sign. Expect five-star service, nightly live guitar performances and a large roof terrace with cathedral views.
19. Venice
Why go?
Autumn in Venice is full of surprises, bringing days when lunch al fresco feels like summer, when the city lies wrapped in a misty shroud or when acqua alta brings the lagoon water lapping over pavements. Highlights of the season include: David Hockney’s 82 Portraits at Ca’ Pesaro (capesaro.visitmuve.it; until Oct 22); Vittorio Zecchin’s superlative glass designs remain on show at the Stanze del Vetro (lestanzedelvetro.org; until Jan 7); Damien Hirst’s monumental Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable continues at Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana until Dec 3 (palazzograssi.it). Just before closing (Nov 26) is a great, quiet time to catch the sprawling contemporary art Biennale.
Where to stay
Wonderfully decadent and very quirky, the décor at The Metropole (doubles £159) harks back to Venice’s historic trading relations with the east, especially in the tenebrous ground-floor lounge with its comfortable corners and smoky mirrored ceiling. Out back, there’s a delightful garden.
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20. Vienna
Why go?
Autumn brings mellow, golden days to Vienna, with crisp walks in city parks and the Wienerwald woods, and local wines at the city’s plethora of Heurige taverns. New-wave art enlivens independent galleries, including at the Vienna Contemporary (viennacontemporary.at; Sept 21-24), curated by Vienna (wirtschaftsagentur.at; Sept 15-Oct 14) and the Long Night of Museums (langenacht.orf.at; Oct 10).
Where to stay
Park Hyatt Vienna (doubles £285) is located on Am Hof, Vienna’s oldest square, just steps from the “Golden Quartier” – the city’s pedestrianised luxury shopping district boasting big brands and flagship stores – and a short walk from the Hofburg Palace and St Stephen’s Cathedral. The hotel’s restaurant, with its soaring alabaster ceiling supported by huge marble columns, boasts serious wow factor.
Contributors: Rodney Bolt, Annie Bennett, Kerry Christiani, Sally Davies, Suzanne King, Fiona Flores Watson, Jane Foster, Anne Hanley, Paula Hardy, Mary Lussiana, Linda Macdonald, Lee Marshall, Antony Mason, Hannah Meltzer, John O’Ceallaigh, Adrian Phillips, Caroline Shearing, Paul Sullivan, Nicky Swallow
