Youser Men’s Spring 2020

Korean designer Mooyeol Lee was thinking about yesterday, today and tomorrow with this collection that married the Wild West with his vision of the future.

While there were some nice pieces here — the sage shorts suit that opened the show, and some draped paisley shirts — the collection galloped all too often into conceptual, costume territory, what with patchwork, fringed jeans made to resemble chaps, camo trousers with glossy patent patches, and the suede capes and hats with their mile-long swooshing fringes.

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Lee is a shining star at Seoul Fashion Week, where he was named one of the top 10 brands during the the 2018 spring season, and was a finalist in the 2018-19 International Woolmark Prize. He launched Youser, a combination of the words “You” and “User,” in 2011, and has been the creative director of a contemporary women’s brand, 1159Studio, since 2017.

There were some lovely touches here, and a sustainability angle. The futuristic part of the collection came in the form of recycled or recyclable materials, such as polyester, while accessories included paint-splattered boots and little bags with neon chains. But they weren’t enough to carry this collection over the line into covetable, or commercial territory.

Launch Gallery: Youser Men's Spring 2020

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