Yes, Retinoids Can Treat Your Body Acne. Here's How They Work.

When it comes to acne, there are multiple ways to treat and prevent new and existing breakouts. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, among all skin conditions, acne is, by far, the most common one in the United States, affecting around 50 million people across the country. Though it’s typically teens and young adults that deal with acne, adult acne is also a thing and the numbers keep increasing.

Finding information about facial acne – whether it’s the newly popularized maskne or hormonal breakouts – is quite easy, but tips regarding body acne specifically are somewhat harder to come by, which means it is still often largely overlooked and stigmatized. While body acne is nothing to be ashamed about, like any other skin condition, it’s something that should be monitored and, if needed, treated. Our bodies deserve just as much care as our faces and one of the most effective ways to treat body acne can be found in topical retinoids.

What are retinoids and how do they work?

A retinoid, much like retinol, is a derivative form of vitamin A. However, as board-certified dermatologist Stacy Chimento, MD, explains to Teen Vogue, “retinols are a much weaker version of retinoids.” These days, there are both prescription-grade and over-the-counter retinoid treatments available on the market and they are often found in acne and so-called “anti-aging” products. But how exactly do retinoid creams and serums work?

“Topical retinoids increase the skin's cellular turnover to create new healthy skin cells, to promote collagen, and improve the overall quality, texture, and tone of the skin,” Dr. Chimento explains. “Retinoids are wonderful treatment options for comedogenic acne as it increases the cellular turnover to rid the skin of built-up dead skin cells and debris.” As opposed to alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) like glycolic acid, and beta-hydroxy acids (BHA) like salicylic acid, which are exfoliants often found in acne treatments, “retinoids work much deeper in the skin to create more significant cellular turnover and to promote collagen production,” Dr. Chimento says, adding that retinoids can be used “virtually anywhere on the body.”

So, whether you want to treat acne on your face, neck, chest, arms, shoulders, back, or buttocks, topical retinoids might be the ingredient you are after. (However, be extra careful around sensitive areas and, as Dr. Chimento advises, if you are using them on your face, always avoid the lips and eyelids.)

Can anyone use retinoids?

For the most part, yes, but, like with any skin care ingredient, it’s always best to check with your dermatologists before introducing retinoids into your body acne routine. “While most people can benefit from the use of a retinoid, it is not advisable to use in patients that have very sensitive skin such as rosacea- or eczema-prone skin,” Dr. Chimento warns.

Whenever retinoids come up in a skin care conversation, questions about at what age they should be introduced almost always follow. However, Dr. Chimento says “there are typically no age restrictions for retinoid use.” If acne is present, retinoids (whether prescribed or over-the-counter) are usually introduced during or even slightly before puberty. (For reference, since 2016, Adapalene, a form of topical retinoid, is approved by the FDA for over-the-counter use in adults and children of ages 12 and older.)

Is there something triggering my body acne?

Though our approach might be intrinsically different, body acne and face acne are in reality pretty similar. Much like there are face acne triggers, body acne can also be affected by external factors. “One thing we often see is acne from wearing tight-fitted leggings or pants which can create folliculitis on the buttocks or groin,” Dr. Chimento says.

Aside from external factors like clothes, stress can also play a small part in aggravating your body acne (especially now that back-to-school season is in full swing.) “While we know that stress does not cause acne, we do know that those who already have acne may have worsening of a flare,” Dr. Chimento shares.

Do retinoids have side effects?

Like anything in life, yes, that’s why, again, it’s always best to check with your local dermatologist before diving into the world of retinoids. Dr. Chimento tells us that the main thing to take into account when starting to use retinoids is that they “have the propensity to make a person's skin more sensitive to the sun.” You should always have SPF handy (yes, usually even if you are indoors) but especially if you are using a treatment that includes retinoids – that means SPF should be applied to both your face and body.

Dr. Chimento also says that if too much retinoid is applied, the skin can become more sensitive, red, or even dry – or, a combination of all. “Less is always more when applying Retinoids. Occasionally when someone first starts a retinoid, they may experience an acne purge as the cells are rapidly turning over and the body is removing all of the dead skin cells. This is a temporary purge and patients should continue using the retinoid as directed,” Dr. Chimento says. “Caution needs to be taken when using other potentially irritating products such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids and vitamin C serums. I typically recommend for patients not to do waxing of facial hair, including eyebrows, while using retinoids. The skin is very sensitive and they run the risk of a chemical burn.”

Should you keep using retinoids even after your acne has visibly cleared up?

Yes. Even if your flare-ups have subsided, the continued use of retinoids (though, again, always monitored) is recommended to make the most of its long-term effects. “Long term usage of retinoids include amazing benefits of collagen production, improvement of sun damage, tone, and texture,” Dr. Chimento says.

Originally Appeared on Teen Vogue