A Winter Weekend Destination You’ve Likely Overlooked: New Paltz, New York
Winter blues be damned. On a recent especially dismal, grey afternoon, I decided it was time for a weekend escape out of New York. The relentless city pace had me beat. Bravo and Netflix, usually effective distractions, were doing little to revive me. I craved slowness, the kind where your head-space is finally quiet and you realize “mindfulness” is not only real but possible. I itched for a feeling of awe too, the kind brought on by seeing the new and inspiring.
And so, in an effort to chase these rare states of being, I sought advice from friends and family on where upstate I should I go. I heard the usual suspects: Hudson, Rhinebeck, Kingston, Woodstock. All perfectly desirable destinations, touted in every upstate New York guide under the sun, but I wasn’t sold. I wanted to go somewhere that seemed more undiscovered—or at least not overrun by most of Brooklyn. Other prerequisites included: proximity (two hour trip max), and authenticity (ideally the opposite of trendy and curated).
Some research led me to New Paltz, New York, a Hudson Valley town only familiar to me as the home of a SUNY university. Upon further investigation, it became clear that it wasn’t just a quaint college town. Instead, it seemed to have everything I was after: scenic nature, history, and a cultural bent. To sweeten the deal, the trip was a speedy 90 minute drive or train-ride out of the city. I was in. My findings are as follows.
There are two separate worlds in New Paltz, and they’re equal in charm. The first you’ll find at a sprawling, Victorian-era resort called Mohonk Mountain House, which is a must-stay at if you’re able to indulge. Mohonk is a 149-year-old castle (and National Historic Landmark to boot) on the southern ledge of the Shawangunk mountains, overlooking glacial Lake Mohonk. Its exterior, grand and majestic, looks like it was plucked out of a Grimms’ fairytale. The interior is equally magical, like a gothic novel come to life. Wood-paneled parlors, cozy nooks, and fireplaces are found at every turn. It’s no wonder countless artists (Edward Hopper and Edward Gorey among them) have depicted Mohonk in their work.
A Winter Weekend in New Paltz, New York
The resort may be secluded, but there is plenty to do. For R&R, head to the award-winning spa for a luxurious mineral body treatment. Forget about the bone-chilling outdoor temperature and post up in the sauna. Afterwards, cozy up with one of the hotel’s cable-knit cashmere blankets by the roaring fireplace in the solarium with a cup of detoxifying tea. For outdoor enthusiasts, there’s ice-skating offered in the grand Pavilion and 85 miles of trails to explore by hiking, snowshoeing, and cross-country skiing (if the weather permits). Trek up to Skytop tower, the peak of Mohonk Preserve, for breathtaking views of the Catskill mountains where six states—New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, and Vermont—can be seen in the distance. The rare feeling of awe I mentioned earlier? Let it overtake as you gaze outwards, below, and beyond.
All activities (save for spa treatments) are conveniently included in the nightly rate, as well as the meals, which are far too delicious not to mention and praise. Dining, led by Executive Chef James Palmeri, is focused on both locally and internationally-sourced ingredients. Meals are served buffet-style at made-to-order carving stations. Dishes like mini potato blinis with house smoked Scottish salmon, fresh caviar and crème fraiche served at brunch and braised wagyu beef short ribs at dinner make this a hungry foodie’s paradise (you will return for seconds, I promise).
The second world of New Paltz is found in its downtown, mostly along the Main St. drag. From Mohonk, you would hardly realize it exists even though it’s just a quick 15 minute drive down the mountain. When you get into town, head to The Village Tea Room, a farm-to-table restaurant, for comfort food and delicious baked goods. Order a slice of honey bee orange chiffon cake. It’s layered with apricot preserves, covered in honey butter cream, apricot glaze, and chocolate truffle bees. If you’re jonesing for savory, go for the classic turkey pot pie, one of their most popular dishes since they opened 14 years ago.
For retail therapy, get your shopping fix at the European marché-inspired Water Street Market. There are over a dozen vendors to poke around in but the two antique stores, Antiques on Main and the larger, two-story Antiques Barn are highlights. After setting foot in the barn, I heard a woman exclaim “this is tchotchke heaven!” Beyond the bric-a-brac, take note of the eclectic, rustic furniture, mid-century sterling silver jewelry and vintage clothing scattered throughout. I spied two ‘80s numbers: a crepe-de-chine Givenchy safari dress and a double-breasted, pinstripe Yves Saint Laurent suit—both under $100.
Stop by Groovy Blueberry next door to indulge your inner hippie. Look out for the 70s-inspired, locally-made acid-color patches and racks upon racks of hand-dipped tie-dye. They also sell impossibly chic, calf-length, woolen mukluk sock slippers that make excellent gifts. Nearby, Barner Books, a used bookstore with rare and first-edition titles, is a gem of the local scene. Browse through the robust assortment of art, photography, and fashion tomes. I scored a fairly obscure 1985 fashion photo book by a Japanese photographer named Chikako Ohyama who, back in the day, lensed images for Pierre Cardin, Issey Miyake, and British Vogue to name a few. I spotted a slew of titles that would be just as well-suited for the high-brow shelves at cult London/NYC bookseller IDEA Books. New Paltz, who knew?
There is no shortage of options for drinking and dining. If you’re traveling with a group, schedule a tour and tasting at Coppersea Distilling, a heritage whiskey distillery operating out of a 75-acre farm, focusing on historical, folk techniques and grass-to-grain distilling. Pick up a bottle of their best-selling Bonticou Crag Straight Malt Rye to bring a little flavor of the Hudson Valley home. For an upscale Italian dinner, A Tavola Trattoria is a local favorite for rustic cuisine, with comforting home-made pasta you’ll devour in an instant.
Continue further along Main street and end your weekend with a stop at the witchy Awareness Shop, New Paltz’s one-stop destination for all things spiritual and metaphysical. Stock up on jewel-tone votive candles made in-store, specialty mood-boosting essential oils, and chakra sprays for relaxation and balancing energy. You’ll need the latter to hold you down this winter until your next upstate visit.
