Why Providence, Rhode Island, Should Be Your Next Weekend Getaway

For now, I bounce from coast to coast, but I plan to die in Providence. I was student at the Rhode Island School of Design more than a decade ago, and the magic of that jewel-box of a city still pulls on my heartstrings. It’s the Victorian homes, industrial buildings, the charmingly gruff New England personalities, and concentration of Italian American markets that have kept me coming back. The town is divided by the Providence river, separating the posh, College Hill area to its east, and the grittier, fast-developing downtown, Olneyville, Federal Hill, and Atwells to the west. Most tourists will cling to the picturesque, colonial Benefit street, with its gas lamps and pristine mansions, but that’s only a tiny sliver of what the city has to offer. This place has chutzpah. It’s the blue collar dive bar and the Ivy League, it’s Mayflower meets crust punk. What other city’s most beloved mayor was a convicted felon and the face of a popular line of packaged red sauce? R.I.P Buddy Cianci.

This past fall, I returned to my alma mater to give a lecture, and to get a fix of that one-of-a-kind Rhode Island charm. My husband, a Brown alum, joined me to spend a few nostalgic days visiting our old haunts and exploring the newest spots to eat and drink with friends who were smart enough to never move away. The once desolate downtown has filled its empty storefronts with new restaurants and shops, and the food and drink were even better than I remembered. For a mix of old and new, for loud music, quality museums, and really good food, Providence is holding it down as my favorite town in America.

Where to Stay
The Dean Hotel has changed the game when it comes to accomodations in town. Sophisticated, timely decor gives a facelift to an old building. The rooms are small and simple, but well designed with comfy beds. This is a paired-down hotel experience, and a welcome alternative to corporate hotels and mildewy B&Bs. If you prefer to go the apartment rental route, book one on the westside off Broadway, or downtown.

Where to Eat
Sometimes I wish I hadn’t eaten at downtown’s Oberlin restaurant, so every subsequent meal would not have suffered so sorely by comparison. This is the spot I wish I had in my own neighborhood—reasonably priced, completely unpretentious, and crazy delicious. Chef Benjamin Sukle is known for his preparation of local, New England fish, served every which way on their crudo menu and theatrically presented in the whole roasted fish entrée. I asked Chef Sukle to share the secret to that dish, and he divulged, “we coat the fish in a very vinegary and salty mayonnaise before grilling. It makes the skin crisp up, and adds great flavor too.” Aside from what might be the only natural wine list in town, there is a Spanish cider on draft for $4 a pop that I could have drunk all night (and maybe did).

For another breakout newcomer to the upscale dining scene, there’s North, located in the Dean Hotel. The vibe is a take on an old-world Chinese tavern, with mismatched ceramics and dark stained rough-hewn wood decor. Go with a group to maximize the tapas style menu, and don’t miss the Dan Dan noodles or their inventive cocktail list.

For a taste of classic Italian American charm, so quintessentially Providence, stroll through Federal Hill.  For a fancy Italian dinner, Al Forno’s has always been the spot, but personally, I prefer to grab an Italian sandwich and some prepared antipasti from Venda Ravioli, and make a picnic outside.

For more OG Providence, make a late-night pit stop at New York System. Opened in 1946, this institution takes great pride in their proprietary recipe of beef, pork and veal hot weiners, seasoned with celery salt. Whatever you do, don’t confuse a hot weiner with a “hot dog.” That slip of the tongue could end poorly in this part of town. Watch as the line cook balances them along a plastic-wrapped forearm, and smothers them with “weiner sauce.” If you’re somehow still hungry, swing by the Haven Brothers Food Truck, serving burgers, more hot weiners and most importantly, coffee milk, in the heart of downtown since 1915.

Where to Drink
The Eddy bar is the kind of place where Old Fashioneds are served on tap. If that’s not your thing, try the “bartender’s choice”; toss out three ingredients you like, and let the mixologists work their magic. The Eddy is intimate and quite popular, so be prepared to stand at the bar or wait for a table. Their bar snacks hit the spot with elevated deviled eggs, and a serious charcuterie plate, served with “good bread” on a kitschy metal tray.

Coffee Break
Over on Atwells Avenue, Vanuatu, an unassuming little coffee spot, is serving what they describe as “beyond organic and beyond fair trade” coffee. Providence’s politically engaged west side feels like exactly the right place to take a cup of coffee, grown cooperatively, “without fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, animal manure or compost. Just South Pacific rains and our volcano.”

Where to Take in Music
Providence is a town of die-hard music lovers, and no trip there would be complete without catching a live show. For bigger acts, check the schedule for The Strand. For a mix of music and comedy, The Columbus Theater is an opulent old opera house with programming that’s run cooperatively, on a volunteer basis.

AS220 is a venue collectively run by local musicians, and it hosts a robust program of community events, dance classes, and youth arts classes. On their four main stages, they feature a healthy mix of folk, indie rock, and also comedians and off-beat special events. If you’re adventurous, check their schedule for daytime dance classes.

If the stars align and Providence’s punk rock marching band, the What Cheer? Brigade are playing during your trip, please, for the love of the tuba, do not miss it. This raucous band of outsiders are inspired by traditional Baltic brass bands, and perform in a ragtag wardrobe of handmade costumes. Their shows never end in anything but a spirited dance party, so check the schedule on their site for showtimes.

Where to Go for Art
Brown and RISD continue to serve the community, bringing world-class exhibitions to the country’s smallest state. Brown’s David Winton Bell Gallery mounts thoughtful shows by contemporary artists, and the newly expanded RISD Museum presents its collection design objects and fine art alongside contemporary works.

For smaller grassroots galleries, World's Fair Gallery is a tiny storefront next to the Columbus Theater that mounts thoughtful shows with local artists. It’s run by the owners of Little Bitte cocktails, a craft cocktail company that often pops up around town.

Not a traditional art gallery per se, the Providence Athenaeum is a gem of a Victorian library that is open to the public. Founded in 1753, the Athenaeum continues to be an important cultural player in Providence, hosting musical performances, parties, salons, and lectures amongst the stacks. Out in front is an ornate stone drinking fountain. As urban legend goes, if you drink from the fountain (as Edgar Allan Poe is said to have once done), you will never leave. If you’re like me, that’s not such a bad thing.