Why Are We All So Obsessed With Lip Oils Right Now?

Marisa Petrarca

February 27, 2024 at 8:00 AM·5 min read

I recently came across a Reddit thread of people analyzing the lip oil trend with practically dissection-level scrutiny. They delved into product chemistry, conspired about marketing strategies, waxed poetic about their favorite formulations and exchanged details about their personal lip oil routines. The timing of these lip oil manifestos isn't coincidental: An increasing number of makeup brands — Summer Fridays, Fenty Beauty, Well People, The Lip Bar and Too Faced, to name a few — have recently introduced their own versions, and this trend shows no signs of slowing anytime soon.

"Lip oils are known for delivering a glossy shine while keeping lips nourished upon application," explains Jen Shane, the co-founder and head of innovation at Innbeauty Project. Her insight carries weight. After all, the brand's bestselling Lip Glaze is TikTok-viral, praised for its non-sticky, silky application, sheer wash of color and soothing blend of oils. Beauty enthusiasts have deemed it a more affordable dupe for the Dior Addict Lip Glow Oil, a beloved formula since its 2020 debut.

<p>Photo: Courtesy of Summer Fridays</p> — Photo: Courtesy of Summer Fridays

One way to contextualize lip oils' place in your routine is as lip gloss's lighter-weight, more intensely moisturizing cousin. Lips oils typically contain a base (carrier) oil such as coconut or jojoba oil, and many formulas also contain added botanical extracts, essential oils and vitamins to soothe, protect and moisturize lips. For differentiation purposes, cosmetic chemist Ginger King deems lip oil "for treatment" and lip gloss for aesthetics or, as she puts it: "to add the glam."

In December, Iska Lawrence, model and founder of body-care brand Saltair, introduced a lip oil crafted with coconut oil, murumuru, shea butter and plant-derived esters with a subtle sheen of color. Lawrence has become a devoted fan of the product she created, citing it as a "must-have" in her handbag.

But the entrepreneur values the whole category of lip oils, telling Fashionista that she appreciates how they tend to feel so comfortable on the lips and, crucially, that it doesn't get stuck in your hair when it's windy outside. According to Lawrence, global lip oil domination is imminent; she believes more and more people will transition away from glosses and balms to oils.

Skeptics might wonder whether lip oil is truly different from lip gloss or if it's merely a clever marketing strategy. According to King, the distinction is real, and you can see so by examining the product's ingredient list: She explains that lip gloss typically uses thickening polymers and polybutenes, which give the gloss itself shine and structure so it doesn't "run all over the lips and cause smearing."

Saltair's Lip Oil Balms.<p>Photo: Courtesy of Saltair</p> — Saltair's Lip Oil Balms.
Photo: Courtesy of Saltair

Lip oils, on the other hand, are typically devoid of polymers and may have a small amount of wax that gives them more consistency and makes the lip oil itself less runny. A semi-common exception, King says, is Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, which formulators sometimes use to help with the texture. "It helps cut the greasy feel of oil, build viscosity, and increase adhesion." Compared to polybutenes in lip gloss, this type of polymer is less glossy.

Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Ryan Turner confirms that lip oil may offer treatment benefits, too. After all, "lips are unique from the rest of our facial skin in that they do not have any sebaceous (oil) glands and only feature a few cellular layers, whereas the rest of our skin has many more layers and is thicker," he explains. "The thinness of lip skin makes it very delicate and this tissue may need outside support to stay moisturized."

Lip oil may help. He recommends choosing one with humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin, which "will help draw water into the skin," he explains. "Ingredients like squalane, jojoba oil, shea butter, and ceramides, as well as ingredients that are rich in omega fatty acids, namely linoleic acid, oleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid (olive oil, sunflower oil, and chia oil are good examples) can all help support the skin barrier and seal water in."

"In most cases, lip oils are used for aesthetic reasons and are usually glossy and tinted, but there are plenty of lip oils that double as intensive night treatments," adds Dr. Turner. He recommends the following routine to reap as many benefits as possible: First, make sure your lips are clean and dry and then exfoliate to remove dead skin cells from the lips. (This will make sure the treatment can fully absorb.) As an optional next step, he suggests using a humectant like hyaluronic acid or glycerin and finally applying your lip oil. "This will seal in those hydrators and protect the skin barrier," he says.

Ahead, we've rounded up all the top-rated lip oils — including tinted, scented, transparent and reparative formulas — to consider adding to your routine.