Why now is the time to visit Russia's 'Window to the West'

Nick Trend
Updated
It may be cold in Russia at winter, but it's beautiful - Konstantin Kalishko
It may be cold in Russia at winter, but it's beautiful - Konstantin Kalishko

Wrap up warm and soak up the spirit of St Petersburg, Russia’s cultural capital.

Why go now?

The intense cold, the snowy squares and streets, the frozen canals and spectacular ice floes of the river Neva – they are all part of the atmosphere of St Petersburg in winter. But you are never chilly for long. Buildings are efficiently heated and cloak rooms take you coat with slick efficiency. Enjoy the sights, the ballet , the fabulous museums without the summer crowds. Flights from London with British Airways (ba.com) and Aeroflot (aeroflot.ru/gb-en).

Stay here

The Four Seasons (number 1 on the map above) – once the mansion of Prince Alexey Lobanov-Rostovsky – is three or four minutes’ walk from the Hermitage and one of the grandest buildings you are every likely to stay in. Doubles from £221 (telegraph.co.uk/tt-four-seasons-petersburg). Just around the corner, the Hotel Angleterre (2) is owned by Rocco Forte. Doubles from £110 (telegraph.co.uk/tt-angleterre-petersburg).

Walk here

Frankly, you won’t want to walk too far in winter. But it’s nice to cross the river and get some perspective. So wrap up and head over the bridge from Palace Square to the Menchikov Palace (3), the oldest and most atmospheric in the city where you can spend an hour warming up before lunch in the cafe.  

See this

The Hermitage Museum (4) – which comprises the Winter Palace, home to the Tsars, and one of the world’s great art collections. A landmark Piero della Francesca exhibition runs until March 3. Avoid queues by booking in advance at hermitagemuseum.org.

The Hermitage is one of the world's most respected museums - Credit: istock
The Hermitage is one of the world's most respected museums Credit: istock

Try this

For a taste of the old Soviet Union, pop into Pyska (5) at 25 Bolshaya Koniushennaya Street, a no-frills cafe founded in 1958 and still going stong. The coffee isn’t great – go for tea – but the donuts (15p) are delicious. 

Shop here

Nevsky Prospect (6) is the central spine of the city and the main shopping street where the stores will serve you well for major purchases. For smaller, more specialist shops (and some nice cafes), try Bolshoi Prospect (7) in Petrogradsky district.

Drink here

You won’t want to miss the world’s greatest ballet (mariinsky.ru), so have a glass of vodka or Georgian bubbly with some red caviar in one of the bars of the Mariinsky Theatre (8) during the interval.

'You won't want to miss the world's greatest ballet' - Credit: getty
'You won't want to miss the world's greatest ballet' Credit: getty

Eat here

With a spectacular view over the dome of St Isaacs Cathedral, Mansarda (9) serves immaculately presented contemporary dishes inspired by Russian traditonal cooking. The seafood is especially good.  It’s at Pochtamtskaya ul 3-5 (007 812 640-16-16; ginza.ru/spb/restaurant/mansarda – Russian website) and costs about £50pp with drinks.

Off the map

In warmer weather, head to two of the Imperial summer residences – the Peterhof or the Catherine Palace – but in winter take the metro to Gorkovskaya or Ploschad Lenina for the Battleship Aurora, which allegedly fired the first shots of the October Revolution (eng.navalmuseum.ru).