Why You Should Never Pair These Two Skincare Ingredients, According To Derms
Skincare maximalism was once the norm (10 steps, anyone?), but for the sake of your shelf space–and your wallet–it's time to consider quality over quantity. The key is understanding how to layer ingredients. Some complement and strengthen each other, while others don't play nice. How can you tell the difference? Take it from the derms we spoke to, ahead.
Prioritize these pairings for glowier, healthier skin.
Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide
Anyone who's ever had a breakout (*raises hand*) is familiar with salicylic acid. It treats acne by targeting and removing oil and dead-skin-cell debris from pores, but this type of acid exfoliation can lead to irritation. Here’s where niacinamide (a.k.a. vitamin B3) comes in. Dhaval Bhanusali, MD, a dermatologist in NYC, adds it to patients’ routines because “it’s a great anti-inflammatory that can help adjust the irritation of many strong topicals.” And it matches well with salicylic acid because “they both work toward the same end goal of treating pigmentation and evening skin tone,” says Tiffany Libby, MD, a fellow NYC derm. Use a toner like La Roche-Posay’s Effaclar Clarifying Solution Acne Toner
With Salicylic Acid. Then slather on a serum like The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%.
Vitamin C + Vitamin E
Among ingredient MVPs, vitamin C tops the list. The powerful antioxidant helps protect against free radical damage—the culprit behind visible aging—and is a salve for most skin woes. “It’s essential for collagen production, which gives our skin support and structure to combat fine lines and wrinkles,” Dr. Libby says. She suggests pairing it with another antioxidant powerhouse, vitamin E. “When formulated together, they work to make each other’s benefits more potent,” she says. “Vitamin E makes vitamin C four times stronger.” Wow! Do yourself a favor and go for a bottle that already combines the two ingredients, like the cult favorite Skinceuticals C E Ferulic With 15% L-Ascorbic Acid. Vitamins C and E will tag-team to increase protection for your skin and limit UV ray–induced damage. (How-ever, don’t forget that you still need to wear sunscreen daily.)
Retinoids + Ceramides
The first in this couple does everything from fading discoloration to preventing wrinkles—but retinoids are also known to be drying. Stop sensitivity before it starts by making a double skin-care “sandwich”: Apply moisturizer, apply a retinoid, then apply moisturizer again. The stacking “helps the retinoid penetrate deeper into the skin to work its magic,” says Dr. Libby. And any of those earlier annoying side effects can be nixed by ceramides (naturally occurring lipids) in a moisturizer. “Our skin’s barrier relies on lipids to remain healthy, plump, and capable of holding in moisture,” Dr. Libby says. You lose those clutch lipids over the years, but applying them topically rebuilds that “glue” between cells. Try Cetaphil’s Intensive Healing Lotion With Ceramides.
Before you go all mad scientist, keep these guidelines in mind.
Don't Mix Up Your Acne Fighter
Remember all those benefits from vitamin C? You might unknowingly undo them with
a popular acne-fighting ingredient, benzoyl peroxide. “It can destabilize vitamin C,
so they shouldn’t be used in succession,” Dr. Libby says. A common mistake is using a BP cleanser, then applying vitamin C. Spread them out! “Use the BP cleanser at night and vitamin C in the morning.”
Don't Assume Extra Exfoliation Is A Good Thing
Doubling up on resurfacing ingredients like retinol and chemical exfoliants “can cause flaking, redness, and even burns,” Dr. Bhanusali says. To start, it’s safest to use alpha hydroxy acids (like glycolic) or beta hydroxy acids (like salicylic) twice a week, but not on the same nights that you use a retinol. One exception is lactic acid, which is more hydrating than the rest.
Don't Go Crazy With Active Ingredients.
Bottom line: Too much of a good thing is a bad thing—so beware of layering many potent picks. Dr. Libby sees patients using a glycolic acid cleanser followed by a glycolic acid cream, for example, which is “a sure way to irritate skin.” What would that look like?Redness and flaking, your face stinging. When in doubt, just introduce one active-boosted product at a time.
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