Why Ballet Flats Are Trending Again: The History and Evolution From the 1600s Renaissance to Today
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Ballet flats will always be and have always been a go-to style for many. Casual and classy, the footwear style is enduring, having stuck around since the 1600s.
From Amy Winehouse to Jackie Kennedy, prominent celebrities have gravitated towards the footwear silhouette on a number of occasions, citing trends of the time and a need for comfort. In 2023, it’s hard to find a footwear brand that is not offering ballet flats under their proverbial belt. The options are virtually endless.
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A brand that has successfully honed in on the ballet flat trend is Birdies. The company, known for its comfortable, professional women’s shoes, asked its vendors in China and Vietnam to identify dependable sources for upcycled satin and silk from deadstock and factory waste, along with eco-friendlier rubber and latex to create its product.
“We’ve seen ballet flats sweep the fashion world for months — from the streets to the runway — with no sign of the trend slowing down as we get into the holiday season,” Bianca Gates, CEO and co-founder of Birdies told FN. “Case in point: the recent debut of our new silhouette, the Crane, our take on the classic ballet flat with a sculptural square toe and ultra-soft quilted footbed.”
Here, we are breaking down the history of ballet flats and how the trending footwear became so popular in the fashion scene.
A Brief History of Ballet Flats
The classic ballet flat silhouette we know today can be traced all the way back to the Renaissance. Both men and women from that time period wore flat shoes featuring pointed toes. The length and point of the shoe’s toe was an indicator of nobility. The longer the point, the more noble the wearer was.
The topic of ballet flats can’t be tackled without discussing their origins in the world of dance. Prior to the acceptance and invention of the modern ballet slipper, dancers would perform in shoes fitted with heels.
Then in the 1730s, French dancer Marie Camargo went without heels for her performance, opting for more comfortable flat-soled shoes instead. This move would set in motion a chain of events that would pave the way for the modern ballet flat.
In 1941, famed American fashion designer Claire McCardell was infatuated by the sleek and simplistic design of the ballet flat. McCardell commissioned Salvatore Capezio, an Italian shoemaker and ballet outfitter, to design a special line of the shoes that could be worn off-stage.
The ballet shoe was later popularized in 1947 when Rose Repetto, the mother of famed dancer Roland Petit, made changes to her son’s ballet shoes in order to make them more comfortable. These modified shoes allowed dancers a wider range of movement and enhanced comfort. The hand-made flats garnered a cult following at the Paris Opera Ballet and the rest is history.
Further changing the game, French dancer Charles Didelot created the first pair of pointe shoes in the late 18th century, which he called “flying machines.” These shoes were rigged with wires that allowed dancers to “fly” onstage.
Later in the 19th century, Italian shoemakers created reinforced pointe shoes fitted with stiff boxes made from newspaper, flour paste and pasteboard. The shoe’s cardboard insoles were reinforced with leather.
Ballet Flats in Pop Culture
Ballet flats gained popularity thanks in part to the media and the celebrities that wore them.
From the stage to the silver screen, famed French actress Brigitte Bardot shot ballet flats into the mainstream after her role in the film “Et Dieu Crea La Femme,” which is translated to “And God Created Woman.” For the film, Bardot asked Rose Repetto to create a wearable “city version” of the flat, which she wore throughout the film. Bardot is one of the most influential fashion icons of the 1960s and 70s.
Another fashion icon Audrey Hepburn can also be credited with popularizing ballet flats. The British thespian wore flats for her role as “Jo Stockton” in the 1957 film “Funny Face.” Hepburn famously opted for ballet flat styles from Italian footwear designer Salvatore Ferragamo. Reportedly, the Italian fashion designer custom-designed each pair of ballet flats for the actress himself.
Amy Winehouse was also an outspoken advocate of the ballet flat style, having famously worn the shoes throughout her short but impactful career. The “Back to Black” songstress could often be found performing or walking about in Gandolfi pink satin ballet shoes of the dancer variety which featured pink satin uppers, cotton canvas trim, suede leather soles and matching bows. Winehouse would wear her flats down to the point that they’d get increasingly dirty and worn, giving them a grungy touch. In 2021 two pairs of her beloved ballet flats sold at auction for $12,500 via Julien’s Auction.
Ballet flats soon fell out of favor, fading into the background of the Y2K movement before having a resurgence in the 2010s as people began to embrace workwear. Often paired with skinny jeans, a 2010 staple, ballet flats were seen on it-girls of the time such as Taylor Swift, Rihanna, Demi Lovato and Selena Gomez among others.
In 2016, Miu Miu shared their version of the ballet flat during their spring runway show. Each style was fitted with straps, often printed and mismatched, that crossed over the tops of the feet and threaded through grungy silver buckle closures.
The popularity of ballet flats can also be attributed to feminine liberation, born from the need for more comfortable feminine footwear. This change offered many alternatives to high heels. Ballet flats have allowed women to move freely and comfortably without sacrificing style. Other famed advocates of the ballet flat style include Princess Diana, Meghan Markle, Jackie Kennedy, Katie Holmes, Natalie Portman, Emma Stone and Bella Hadid, among others.
Significance Today
Today, ballet flats have become widely popularized largely thanks to the recent “Balletcore” movement. The micro trend pertains to all things ballet including, bows, tutus, tights and ballet flats among other things. The footwear could signify a desire for softer silhouettes fitted with dainty adornments. Many have cited “Balletcore” as a lifestyle rather than a short-lived trend, integrating the aesthetics and culture surrounding it into their daily routines.
As far as performance-driven ballet slippers go, Capezio is a major player. The brand stocks a wide range of dancewear for a multitude of dance genres beyond ballet, including jazz, tap, lyrical and modern.
Miu Miu, Maison Margiela, Sandy Liang, Chloe, Alaia, Chanel, Simone Rocha, The Row, Manolo Blahnik, and Prada have all remixed the classic ballet flat silhouette over the years, riffing on the silhouette to make something entirely new.
Retailing for $150, Birdies’ The Crane satiates that craving for a true ballet flat with a modern twist. The ballet flat comes in a wide range of colorways, including new and on-trend metallics like “Copper Leather” and “Silver Leather” among others.
Birdies’ Gates talked about releasing The Crane style, adding: “We knew our customer wanted this silhouette, and when it officially launched in September, it fully exceeded our expectations. It was our highest volume day of the season, and the first drop sold out in just one week. Even fashion icon Katie Holmes was seen wearing them.”
The ballet flat style is definitely not for everyone. One thing is for sure though, the shoe is not going anywhere anytime soon.
About the Author:
Amina Ayoud is an Assistant Digital Editor for Footwear News, where she writes stories about everything from celebrity style to breaking fashion and shoe releases. Ayoud cultivated a love of all things fashion early in life thanks to a deep love of fashion history and the luxury industry. In her free time, Ayoud is a self-proclaimed fashion nerd and thriftaholic.
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