Why Azelaic Acid Has Become the Holy-Grail Skincare Ingredient of 2020
Azelaic acid—ever heard of it? Honestly, before I started using a custom prescription skincare cream from Curology a few months ago, I had never actually used azelaic acid before. But now that my breakouts, blackheads, and pigmentation are looking shockingly good, I feel the need to tell everyone about this superhero ingredient. And unless you're someone with perfect, poreless skin (I'm happy for you...really...), I'm willing to bet you could also benefit from adding azelaic acid to your routine.
To help explain all the reasons why—and WTF azelaic acid even is—I turned to board-certified dermatologist Dina Strachan, MD, director of Aglow Dermatology for all of the info. Keep reading to find out everything you ever wanted to know about this skin-treating MVP.
What does azelaic acid do to your skin?
Let's get into the nitty-gritty here for a sec and take a deeper look into what azelaic acid actually is and how it works. Azelaic acid is naturally found in both wheat and the yeast on our skin (though it can also be made in a lab), and it has antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties.
What are the benefits of azelaic acid?
To get into the nitty-gritty, azelaic acid helps speed up your cell production (which smooths bumpy skin), slows melanin production (which calms hyperpigmentation and melasma), prevents the spread of P. acnes (which curbs breakouts), and reduces redness and swelling (which soothes inflammatory skin conditions, like keratosis pilaris and rosacea).
Though azelaic acid has only been technically FDA-approved to address two medical problems—acne and rosacea—it also has beneficial side effect of blocking excess pigment production to brighten skin. "Azelaic acid is especially helpful for those with darker skin types who are prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation," Dr. Stachan says. So if your face just loves to get dark spots after a breakout or a day out in the sun, azelaic acid might be your new BFF.
And if you're a Reddit skincare enthusiast, you might've also read about this ingredient treating keratosis pilaris, too. Dr. Strachan says because azelaic acid is keratolytic (meaning it helps break down excess keratin in your skin, which is what KP bumps are made out of) and helps with hyperpigmentation, it could be helpful for managing your rough red or brown bumps over time.
Azelaic acid vs. salicylic acid:
You don't have to be skincare savvy to have heard of salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. If you've had a pimple on your face, like ever, chances are you tried some kind of spot treatment containing one of the two ingredients. But as effective as they might be, a lot of people are allergic to benzoyl peroxide or can experience dryness and irritation from using either. Enter: azelaic acid. Dr. Strachan describes this alternative acne ingredient as gentler and less irritating but still effective at treating acne—at least when using a prescription-strength formula.
Can you get azelaic acid over the counter?
While you can find azelaic acid in over-the-counter strengths, which can be helpful for brightening and smoothing skin, Dr. Strachan says you'd likely need a prescription-strength (usually 15 or 20 percent) if you're using it to treat acne or rosacea. Although an over-the-counter formulation won't be as effective as a prescription, it might still help—it just depends on how severe your acne is.
If you're interested in trying a prescription-strength product, you should def make an appointment to see a board-certified dermatologist. But in the event you can't make it in to see yours right now, try a telederm appointment or check out Curology (which is what I did during quarantine and was prescribed azelaic acid). If you're dealing with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, Dr. Strachan says an over-the-counter product with a mixture of brightening agents could be helpful.
Can I put moisturizer on top of azelaic acid?
If you experience any kind of stinging or itching from the ingredient—or if you have sensitive skin—Dr. Strachan recommends applying your moisturizer first, especially if you're using a stronger prescription-strength product. Although the FDA-approved formulas are safe to use every day, you want to be careful about mixing your azelaic acid with other exfoliators or retinoids, which can cause irritation.
Dr. Strachan says azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated and is even considered relatively low-risk during pregnancy (it's category B, FYI), which is key for those experiencing melasma during that time (aka pregnancy mask). But before applying any new ingredient all over your face, always patch test it in case of an allergic reaction.
Got all that?! Okay, cool. Now go forth and give it a shot—it might just be exactly what your skin has been looking for all this time.
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