Why there's so much more to Edinburgh than the Fringe

Linda Macdonald
Updated
There's more than jokes to be enjoyed in Scotland's capital - alice-photo
There's more than jokes to be enjoyed in Scotland's capital - alice-photo

The Fringe is almost upon us, but there's plenty of the Scottish capital to savour beyond the festival buzz.

Go now

With a festival buzz building in the city, ease your way in with the Arts Festival (edinburghartfestival.com, from Thursday) before the excitement of August begins (eif.co.uk and edfringe.com). Mainline rail connections with LNER (lner.co.uk), air links with BA (ba.com), easyJet (easyjet.com), flybe (flybe.com) and Ryanair (ryanair.com).

Edinburgh city map guide

Stay here

Alain Roux’s new Brasserie Prince adds lustre to luxury at the Balmoral Hotel (1) to go with the spa, stylish rooms and Princes Street location. Doubles with breakfast from £415. Alternatively, embrace the joyous eccentricity of 2 Cambridge Street (2). You’ll find big brass beds and the city’s best breakfast, from £125 for two.  

The Balmoral, Edinburgh
The Balmoral, Edinburgh

The Balmoral

Edinburgh, Scotland

9Telegraph expert rating

Although an Edinburgh landmark for more than a century, there's nothing old-fashioned about this Forte flagship. Luxurious bedrooms, a Michelin-starred restaurant, lavish afternoon teas in the Palm Court and a spacious spa add up to a sophisticated 21st-century version of a truly grand hotel. Read expert review From £335per night Check availability Rates provided by Booking.com

Walk here

Start on Chambers Street at the National Museum (3), having checked out the delightfully bonkers Lewis Chessmen. Cross to Greyfriars (4) on your way to the Grassmarket (5) for fossils, cashmere and gelato. Start up photogenic Victoria Street, but take the stairs halfway on your left leading you to the Lawnmarket on the Royal Mile. Stop at Gladstone’s Land (6) for a glimpse of 17th-century tenement life, then it’s all downhill exploring secretive closes, vennels and wynds as you go. Don’t miss Cadenhead’s (7) – the oldest independent whisky bottler in Scotland, before repenting at Canongate Kirk (8). Just beyond is the hidden entrance to the delightfully secret Dunbar’s Garden (9). Finish at the Palace of Holyroodhouse (10) and Scottish Parliament (11).  

See this

Conventional wisdom demands a visit to Edinburgh Castle (12) (edinburghcastle.scot) – buy tickets online and miss the queues. Unconventional wisdom says avoid the crowds altogether at the romantic ruins of Craigmillar Castle, southeast of the city centre (historicenvironment.scot).

Craigmillar Castle - Credit: istock
Avoid the crowds altogether at the romantic ruins of Craigmillar Castle Credit: istock

Try this

Take to the roof of St Giles’ Cathedral (13) for knee-wobbling views and a mind-blowing close-up of the crown spire (must be booked in advance; email stgilestower@gmail.com; £6).

Shop here

Get a new take on tartan and tweed at Scottish interior and fashion designers ANTA (14) (anta.co.uk) on George Street. For chic, label-led boutiques, explore Thistle Street (the next lane along).

St Giles’ Cathedral - Credit: Getty
If you can't stomach the heady views of St Giles’ Cathedral's spire, spend some time gazing at the ceiling instead Credit: Getty

Drink here

A brash, flash Edinburgh favourite, it’s all glamour and glitz at Tigerlily (15) (tigerlilyedinburgh.co.uk). Wear your highest heels. Cocktails (around £9) are practically compulsory.

Eat here

Go to The Dogs (16) on Hanover Street (thedogsonline.co.uk) for honest Scottish cooking. Expect to pay around £30 including wine.

Off the map

Soothe jangled senses at Jupiter Artland (jupiterartland.org; £8.50), a contemporary sculpture garden. It’s a 35-minute bus ride from the city centre, but a million miles away (First Bus 27 or X27; £6).

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