The White Lotus-Inspired Travel Guide to Sicily
- Oops!Something went wrong.Please try again later.
- Oops!Something went wrong.Please try again later.
- Oops!Something went wrong.Please try again later.
"Hearst Magazines and Yahoo may earn commission or revenue on some items through the links below."
The White Lotus, Mike White's razor-sharp eat-the-rich satire, has returned to HBO for its sophomore season, leaving behind the paradisiacal veneer of Hawaii for the dolce vita sheen of Sicily. A fresh crop of characters—plus favorite returning trainwreck Tanya (played masterfully by Jennifer Coolidge)—have descended on the titular hotel's Italian address for a week of Aperol Spritz-fueled decadence and debauchery.
As in season 1, a Four Seasons property stands in for the Sicilian White Lotus hotel and while the thrum of simmering tension and fatal doom that persistently looms over this privileged group is hardly enviable, the same can't be said for those picturesque seaside environs they are temporarily inhabiting.
There is more to it all than just perfectly Instagrammable moments, of course. Sicily is an island—the Mediterranean's largest—with an incredibly rich and turbulent history. The earliest signs of human activity here date back to 12,000 BC, and due to its geographic location, it has been invaded, conquered, and fought over by Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Spanish, and French—all resulting in what is today a vibrant, culturally diverse destination. And then there is its pièce de résistance: Mount Etna, Italy's largest volcano, that towers over the northeast, as magnanimous as she is volatile.
Much of The White Lotus takes place in the shadow of Etna in the charming clifftop town of Taormina, though our characters do frequently venture off-campus for cultural excursions, whether it's to explore ancient villages or take a tour of The Godfather's filming locations. In the spirit of the show's second season, a T&C travel guide for planning your own idyllic—and, hopefully, drama-free—sojourn to Taormina and beyond.
Where to Stay
San Domenico Palace, a Four Seasons Hotel
San Domenico Palace may be a new Four Seasons hotel, but it's one of the oldest properties in Taormina. It was originally built in the 14th century as the private residence of one Baron Damiano Rosso d’Altavilla, who, upon his death, turned it over to the Dominican religious order to be used as a monastery. By the late 1800s, it had a new owner, Prince Cerami, who transformed it into a grand hotel that would attract a glittering list of celebrities, royals, and literati over the next century, from King Edward VII and the Rothschilds, to Oscar Wilde and D.H. Lawrence, to screen stars like Greta Garbo, Ingrid Bergman, Audrey Hepburn, and Elizabeth Taylor. In 1960 it even made a cameo as the setting of a party in Michelangelo Antonioni's L'Avventura, starring Monica Vitti (The White Lotus has so far been ripe with references to the legendary Italian actress—more below).
Perched high on a cliff with Etna in the backyard and the Ionian Sea sprawled out in front, the 111-key Four Seasons is all modern luxury with touches of period charm. Want the true White Lotus experience? Spring for one of the resort's five spectacular specialty suites, which have private plunge pools and panoramic views—Tanya's greige refuge, in case you're wondering, is the best one in the house: the 1,500-square-foot Royal Suite.
Villa Sant'Andrea, a Belmond Hotel
Prefer to be closer to the water? Nestled in the secluded Bay of Mazzaro, the 71-room Villa Sant'Andrea, a Belmond, feels more like an aristocratic residence than a hotel. And it has been attracting the type since the '50s. Lush landscaping, a private beach, and richly layered rooms (most of which face the sea and have terraces) add to its rarefied patina. The center of Taormina is just a 3-minute cable car ride away—or better yet, spend a few extra nights at Belmond's other property up there, the equally aristocratic Grand Hotel Timeo.
Villa Igiea, a Rocco Forte Hotel
Spending time in Palermo, Sicily's capital, is a must. It has a distinctly everything-everywhere-all-at-once quality, with its melange of bustling open markets, congested narrow streets, grand palazzos, crumbling buildings bombed during World War II, and architectural landmarks left over from just about every conqueror, from 12-century Arab-Norman churches to Baroque piazzas. Which is to say the Villa Igiea will be a godsend after a whirlwind afternoon soaking it all in. Rocco Forte Hotels spent two years restoring the former Art Nouveau palazzo (it was built in 1900 for the Florio family) back to its Belle Epoque glory. And even though it's just 10 minutes from the city center, it will feel worlds away thanks to its quiet seaside location and fabulous gardens.
What to See
Valley of the Temples
Sicily is home to an incredible collection of ancient Greek art and architecture second only to the Acropolis itself—and several are clustered at this 3,000-acre archaeological site in Agrigento, home to seven Doric-style temples from the period, including the remarkably well-preserved Temple of Concordia.
Teatro Antico di Taormina
Constructed by the Greeks in the 3rd century BC for music and drama, then later expanded by the Romans to accommodate gladiatorial sport, the Greek theatre is as noteworthy for its archaeological significance as it is for those magnificent views. Bonus points if you're able to recount a tale of Greek mythology to your travel companions.
Castello degli Schiavi
The 18th-century estate where Michael Corleone takes refuge in The Godfather makes a cameo in an episode of The White Lotus: Di Grasso patriarch Bert organizes a tour of the iconic movie's filming locations, an outing that ends with lunch—and a spirited debate on toxic masculinity—in the courtyard. In real-life the Castello degli Schiavi is a private home, though its owner will personally lead private tours.
Noto
While the Di Grasso men are off on their Godfather adventure, Daphne and Harper embark on a day trip-turned-overnighter to Noto. Part of a cluster of Late Baroque towns that were reconstructed in the 1700s after an earthquake basically destroyed the entire region, Noto is a period gem clustered with ornate palazzos and soaring cathedrals.
Norman Palace
The oldest royal residence in Europe dates back to the 11th century, when the Normans conquered Sicily and built this palace. In 1132, Roger II of Sicily commissioned the Palatine Chapel (pictured above) to be added to the complex. Various monarchs who came to rule Sicily for the next 700 years continued to use Norman Palace as their seat of power. Today, the UNESCO World Heritage Site is the home of the Sicilian Regional Assembly.
Where to Eat
Otto Geleng
The 16-seat Michelin-starred restaurant, in a bougainvillea-lined corner of the Grand Hotel Timeo (Belmond's other property in Taormina), is one of Sicily's most unique gastronomic experiences. In the hands of chef Roberto Toro, the tasting menu is an innovative celebration of the island's freshest ingredients—think prawns with caviar, amberjack flavored with saffron, mascarpone with persimmon, kohlrabi with burrata.
Principe Cerami
Dinners at the White Lotus may be routinely awkward affairs but yours need not be at the Four Seasons restaurant that stands in for the fictional version. The elegant, Michelin-starred Principe Cerami is helmed by a native Silician, chef Massimo Mantarro, meaning excellent renditions of local flavors and ingredients are pretty much guaranteed.
Pasticceria Cappello
Pastries are obligatory. Sicily is, after all, the birthplace of such classics like the cannoli and granita. For the former, drop in at Pasticceria Cappello, a Palermo institution since 1950.
Pasticceria Savia
Over on the southeastern side in Catania is another institution—this one around since 1897—that is a must for its mastery of two Sicilian staples: cannoli and arancini.
Barone di Villagrande
And we can't forget about the vino. The nourishment of Mount Etna means the southeast has some of the most fertile vineyards in Sicily. This family-owned winery (now on its tenth generation) has been farming the slopes of the volcano for 300 years and has been producing Etna wines since long before the D.O.C. was even established.
You Might Also Like
