Where to Stay and Play in the Bürgenstock Resort, Switzerland’s Most Storied Spa Retreat

If Bürgenstock Hotels & Resort’s Lake Lucerne mountain retreat were in the UK, it would be emblazoned in blue plaques. But of course, the Swiss are more discreet.

The resort—-perched on top of a 1,660-foot cliff overlooking the Alps—was a magnet for celebrities looking to escape the limelight. Sophia Loren lived at Bürgenstock in the 1960s. The site where her house stood is now Parisa, a lauded Persian restaurant overlooking the lake. Audrey Hepburn also called this place home, from 1954 to 1966, and her unassuming Villa Bethania is tucked into the hillside, surrounded by rolling pastures and meandering cows. She married actor and director Mel Ferrer here in the resort’s little white chapel.

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Sean Connery, with the cast and crew of “Goldfinger,” all lodged at the resort while shooting the 1964 Bond movie.

Despite all of that history—the 148 acres resort dates, back to 1873 when the first Grand Hotel was built—it’s looking decidedly contemporary today. In 2017, Bürgenstock reopened following a soup-to-nuts, $600 million,10-year-long renovation by Katara Hospitality.

This year, the resort celebrated its 150 anniversary with the launch of a series of new experiences (like helicopter trips to a glacier for raclette and snow-chilled champagne), retro menus at its restaurants and limited edition Bürgenstock cigars, cheese and beer. Below is Robb Report’s guide on where to stay, play and soak up all that history within this storied escape.

Today, there are four separate hotels on the property, as well as 10 restaurants and bars, six shops, two spas, two museums, a cinema, vineyard, undulating Alpine golf course, and a tennis center (where Roger Federer has, of course, played).

The Waldhotel Health and Wellbeing offers 137 rooms and suites, designed by architect Matteo Thun. And unlike many a wellness retreat they take their mission seriously, i.e.: there is NO alcohol at the bar.

It also features its own spa with a cryotherapy chamber where you can experience -166 F. Some claim that the treatment eases inflammation, but If that’s a hard pass, doctor approved cosmetic procedures will be offered here too, as of next year.

But the most distinctive stays are within the Bürgenstock Hotel and Alpine Spa, which is made up of two parts: the Palace Hotel and the new wing.

The Palace is the original portion of the hotel, dating to 1903, with 109 heritage rooms (from $727), and an in tact Beaux Arts exterior. The new building stretches across the front of the property, and houses 102 contemporary rooms (from $1,567). While from the outside the architecture, by local firm Rüssli Architekten AG, appears somewhat brutalist, that belies inspiring interiors, from London firm MK Design, that are a step beyond the norm. For example, the double-sided fireplaces face enormous baths where bubbles and views can be enjoyed.

But the best rooms are even more spacious. There are 28 private Panorama residences and 29 Grand Residence suites for extended stays. (Villas for purchase are awaiting government approval, since owning property in Switzerland is a tad complicated).

But the biggest draws here is the Alpine Spa, literally. It’s the largest in Europe at about 107,640 square feet. The jewel is the blissfully warm infinity pool, complete with whirlpools and fountains, which you swim out to from the indoor lap pool. It’s cantilevered out of the building, with a stunning panoramic view of the lake below. The urge to languish here taking unlimited selfies is so great that photography is now strictly limited to one hour in the late afternoon.

There’s lots to experience: sauna, cold plunge, steam room, hammam, infrared sauna and an aroma sauna featuring a huge rock hewn from the mountain. There’s an ice fountain room and Kniepp paths, where you walk along rocks through alternating warm and cold water. You can float in a dark room or recline on the napshells—warm, softly lit, sci-fi-esque benches that envelope you in calming MgHz sounds. End it all with a refreshing dip in the outdoor Alpine pool, filled with water pumped up from Lake Lucerne.

If all of that is rudimentary and old hat to you, the spa offers more esoteric treatments. A stand out is the signature gold and green caviar facial, using Dr Burgener products.

Outside the spa (with resort attached), tourists and locals alike take the 45 minute catamaran ride from Lucerne across the pristine lake. There they board the resort’s half mile-long funicular (built in 1888 and refitted in 2002) for the bird’s eye view and a fine dining.

Spices offers a fusion Asian and Indian menu, while fondue is served at Simmentaler Stube within the Verbena Bar & Restaurant. A stube is a traditional peasant building used for cozy gatherings with friends and family, and this elaborately carved wooden example from the 16th-century one was moved here from the Hotel Schweizerhof Bern and Spa.

But on a balmy evening, head for the outdoor seating at the Oak Grill, which overlooks the Hollywood pool, oozing in mid century elegance (it opened in 1954). Head below ground to the retro Bulls Eye Bar with three viewing portals into the pool, as also seen in “Goldfinger,” and order a Vesper, shaken, not… (you know the drill).

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