What's the Difference Between Cognac and Brandy?

Think tequila versus mezcal.

Let’s start with the most important part: All Cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is Cognac. Think of brandy as the umbrella category that comprises spirits that have been distilled from fruit — by definition, either grapes or the fermented juice of another fruit. The word brandy, in fact, comes from the Middle Dutch brantwijn and then later brandewijn (literally ‘burnt’ or distilled wine). This ultimately morphed into the English brandywine — brandy, as we know it today.

Under the category of brandy are Armagnac; Calvados (French apple brandy); Slivovitz (plum brandy); Pisco; pear, plum, and other eaux-de-vie (literally waters of life); the gamut of American brandy; and more. Cognac is, perhaps, the most familiar brandy, but despite its widespread popularity, it’s still fairly misunderstood. But it doesn’t have to be! Here’s what you need to know:

“Cognac is unique because it can only be made in the Cognac region in southwest France, uses white grape juice, and requires a double distillation in a specifically designed copper pot still, called alembic charentais,” explained Michel Casavecchia, cellar master of D’USSÉ Cognac. He added that, in addition, “the art of blending is what truly makes Cognac unique in its own way.”

Related: Whiskey Lovers, Here's Why You Should Be Drinking Cognac Instead

Though other grape varieties are grown in Cognac, the most important is Ugni Blanc, which maintains enough acidity to remain fresh throughout the fermentation and distillations processes. The region itself is made up of six crus: Grande and Petite Champagne (don’t be confused — they’re not the same as where the renowned sparkling wine is produced; in fact, they’re several hours apart by train), Fins Bois, Bons Bois, Borderies, and Bois à Terroirs. Some Cognacs are labeled as coming from specific ones of these (like the Ferrand and Delamain, below), whereas others bring together grapes from throughout the Cognac region. One is not inherently better than the other; it’s more a matter of stylistic decisions and idiosyncrasies.

Once the liquid has been distilled twice, per regulations, it’s then aged. Interestingly, Cognac can be aged in either dry or humid cellars — the former results in more water evaporating through the barrel, and in the latter, less so. The resulting spirit inside will, as a result, be affected in terms of both flavor and texture. Aging, regardless of the environment in which the barrels are reposing, has a relatively predictable effect. “The longer Cognac is aged, the smoother and more complex its flavor profile becomes, while it visually takes on a richer and darker hue,” Casavecchia explains. When blending, cellar masters have to balance the impact of each, as well as of the individual barrels themselves and the ages of the spirits inside.

Related: Why Orange Liqueurs Should Be a Staple on Your Bar Cart

For his work with D’USSÉ, which is produced at the centuries-old Château de Cognac, Casavecchia crafts two specific expressions, a VSOP and an XO. The former “is a blend of eaux-de-vie aged between 4 to 7 years in French oak barrels, in our dry cellars, resulting in a bold, smooth, and balanced Cognac,” he noted, “and the D'USSÉ XO is created from hand-selected eaux-de-vie, aged for a minimum of 10 years and up to 20 years in French oak casks delivering complexity along with a balanced finish.” Within the walls of the gorgeous château, whose thick stone walls and moody lighting look like they could be a stand-in for Hogwarts (if Gryffindors and Slytherins and the rest imbibed delicious Cognac instead of questionable butterbeer), there are historic cellars filled with barrels and bottles that have been aging for many decades.

By law, VS (Very Special) Cognac is a blend of Cognacs, the youngest of which is a minimum of two years old. VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) can’t contain Cognac that’s less than four years old. The youngest Cognac in XO (Extra Old) cannot be less than six years, and some are much older.

Most Cognacs are not just for sipping (though of course you should do that, too; still, it has to be said that mixing, for example, Remy Martin’s Louis XIII into a cocktail is not advisable). In cocktails, this brandy can play a hero’s role, and while Cognac-based drinks aren’t quite as common today as those made from, say, whiskey or tequila, there is a deep historical precedent. “Ironically, in 2023, it still surprises people when we state we can make cocktails with Cognac, but if you read Jerry Thomas’s book ‘The Bon Vivant Companion,’ written in 1862 (the first cocktail book ever released), you realize a lot of original recipes were made with ‘brandy.’ And back then, the brandy of choice was Cognac, as it was the most widely exported liquid,” noted Sullivan Doh, global brand ambassador for D’USSÉ. From highballs and Old Fashioneds to Sidecars, espresso martinis, and even Piña Coladas, Cognac has countless roles to play both on its own and on your bar cart. Here are eleven worth stocking up on.

Best Cognac

Bache Gabrielsen VS Tres Kors

The label’s three crosses, or kors in Norwegian were initially designed to indicate its “medicinal” qualities, which permitted it to be sold in Norway’s pharmacies during that country’s period of prohibition. The liquid itself is sweetly driven by yellow and caramel-coated red apples, and the spicy framing lends it balance, making it well-suited to a range of cocktails, including (but not limited to) a Cognac Old Fashioned..

Camus Borderies Single Estate VSOP

The estate-grown fruit for this small batch Cognac is grown in the Borderies, the smallest appellation in the entire region. It has produced a wonderfully silk-textured Cognac whose floral notes find transporting counterpoints in honey-coated almonds and vanilla pizzelle cookies. A touch of orange oil and yellow plums drizzled with warm honey round it all out.

Courvoisier Cognac Mizunara 2021 Blend

A magnificently silky texture in this Cognac carries distinct notes of mangos, papayas, apricots, dried pineapples, honeysuckle, jasmine, and light-tobacco cigars. The finish lasts for a seeming eternity, and while this bottle is very difficult to find, it’s well worth seeking out among serious collectors.

D’USSÉ XO

Bringing together caramelized nectarines and baked apples with cinnamon and clove, this is the kind of Cognac that works equally well when sipped on its own as it does in high-end cocktails. It finds the elusive middle ground between ripe and energetic, as the chocolate ganache-coated brandied cherries, warm honey, and white figs are lifted with hints of cedar and caramel-dipped golden raisins.

Deau XO

The interplay between the savoriness of terrifically mature Cognac with ripe, expressive brandied cherries and grilled apricots is remarkable with this excellent XO. The finish speaks of cigar humidor and figs, and star anise-dusted plums linger throughout each sip.

Delamain 1er Cru de Cognac “Delicate et Légère”

This name of this Cognac from Grande Champagne translates to “delicate and dry,” which is an apt description. It is notably mineral in character, and its cedar and savory notes lend it a real sense of structure. Still, the fruit here — pears and red apples, with a touch of candied orange — thrums with almonds and pralines. The finish is particularly memorable, rolling on for a solid, subtly spiced minute before dissipating.

Hardy Organic VSOP

USDA Certified Organic, this is a fresh, mineral expression of VSOP. It’s less fruit-forward, though there is some lovely hard stone fruit in there, and more about its structured savoriness and sweet cinnamon stick and clove notes. Singed sage and spearmint linger through the long, fascinating finish.

Hennessy Master Blender’s Selection No. 4

Apricots and orange marmalade are seamed with licorice and charred spearmint, and anchored by toasty oak notes that lend sweetness and spice.

Pierre Ferrand 1er Cru de Cognac

This is a fascinating Grande Champagne Cognac. It’s sweet and spiced, with a terrific interplay between dried apricots, pecan pralines, and brown-sugar caramel. The broad spectrum of fruit and spice, with subtle hits of springtime flowers, will amp up any drink it’s added to.

Rémy Martin XO

Velvety in texture yet with enough acidity to keep it lively, this is one of the benchmark XOs for a reason: Its dance of spun brown sugar, wildflower honey, wild-berry pavlova, orange marmalade, and toasty vanilla linger through a clove-studded finish that’s also marked by plum financier and milk chocolate-enrobed hazelnuts.

Roland Bru VSOP

Deep, rich flavors of butterscotch, brown sugar, and carob find fruity compliments on the apple fritter end of the spectrum. Hints of honeycomb and nougat sweep in, and are joined by candied orange and almond blossom. This is a terrific sipper on its own and makes a fantastic Sidecar.

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