Westchester restaurateur known for Italian eateries opens Latin fusion spot
A passion for pigs and the desire to do something out of his comfort zone inspired longtime restaurateur Raffaele Ronca to create Gordito, a new Latin restaurant, which opens April 16 in Rye.
The Naples-born chef, who also owns Rafele Rye next door (along with Bianca Restaurant & Bar in Greenwich, Conn.) has spent his career opening Italian restaurants — he's been cooking for 23 years — and said he's always loved the flavors of Spain and Mexico. So, when the space adjacent to his opened up (it had been a women's fashion store), he took the leap, using his love for pigs and his admiration for Spanish and Mexican flavors as his incentive.
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So what does that mean food wise?
Gordito's theme, as advertised on its website is a "bold new take on tapas." Ronca goes a step further, calling his new place "the best of Spain and Mexico mixed together under one roof."
That means lots of classic tapas as well as a few surprises. Dishes span the gamut from paella, gambas, tacos, burritos and salads in addition to offering the chef's own distinct creations such as Paella De Quatro Quesos, four cheese paella with Valencia rice and truffle dust and "Endivias," endive salad with goat cheese, orange segments, toasted almonds and an olive oil orange and lemon vinaigrette.
Other menu items include Carne Asada (seared steak with chimichurri sauce); Arroz Con Pollo (roasted chicken with rice and beans); Croquetas de Camarón (potato croquette with shrimp, garlic, olive oil, cayenne aioli); Tortilla Española (Spanish tart with potatoes, egg, cheese, garlic, onion, salt, pepper and olive oil); Castilla De Res Taco (short rib taco with onion, salsa verde, salsa roja, cilantro) and Taco de Pollo Guajillo (slowly braised chicken, sweet and spicy paprika, sour cream, lettuce, tomato, spicy red pepper sauce).
Desserts take the same fusion cue with the standout being the Nacho Sundae, warm tortilla chips drizzled with chocolate sauce nestled next to vanilla gelato, topped with mixed berry coulis. Flan, Tres Leches, churros and tequila tiramisu are other end of meal highlights.
Tell me about the cocktails
With Spain and Mexico as the restaurant's theme, tequila has a starring role as do ingredients such as hibiscus cordial and lavender simple syrup. Among the drink options: Arte de Vol (Blanco tequila, Creme di Violette, lime juice, lavender simple syrup, rich simple syrup); Añejo Manhattan (Añejo tequila, vermouth, angostura bitters, orange bitters); De Donde Eres? (vodka, orgeat syrup, lemon juice, Grand Marnier) and La Gordita (Tequila Blanco, rose cordial, lime juice, cilantro).
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What else do I need to know?
The 69-seat space was designed to be colorful and playful with lots of artwork, including cute pigs (by artist John Hyland) and works by local artist Lynn Mara in addition to items Ronca brought from Italy.
The pigs alone can't help but make you smile, starting at the front door with a Gordito-branded black one high above the entrance. There's also an orange one above the kitchen, which has a window facing the dining room, a red one above the bar and a few pig statuettes behind the bar.
Explain the name
Ronca, whose love for the swine creatures stretches back to childhood (he wanted one as a pet but that never happened), has long been a collector of porky statuettes and other items. In Italy, they're a sign of wealth and goodness, he said, while in the Latin culture the word means "little fatty" as a term of endearment.
The name is also a nod to the affection he has for the many talented kitchen staff he's worked with over the years, the majority of which are Latino. "I've been doing Italian all my life," he said. "It was time to do something different."
If you go
Address: 24 Purchase St., Rye, 914-305-4403, gorditokitchen.com.
Hours: 5 to 11 p.m. for now; in about two weeks they'll open noon to 11 p.m. daily. (Check their social media for updates.)
Price: In the $18 to $28 range per person.
Good to know: Reservations suggested. Those with six in their party looking for a little privacy should ask for the small alcoved room off to the side of the dining room. Another FYI: A tapas-style brunch will be available down the road.
Jeanne Muchnick covers food and dining. Click here for her most recent articles and follow her latest dining adventures on Instagram @jeannemuchnick or via the lohudfood newsletter.
This article originally appeared on Rockland/Westchester Journal News: New Westchester restaurant Gordito features 'bold new take on tapas'
