Designers are making big statements with their show casting this season, and Victor Weinsanto is no exception, conscripting his artistic-leaning pals — including several designer peers, plus top contestants from “Drag Race France” — to stalk his spring runway.
Out strolled lingerie designer Michaela Stark, a walking Araki bondage photo, only with hair braids binding her flesh rather than ropes; Rochas designer Charles de Vilmorin rigged with a towering wire contraption suspending thought bubbles and doodles above his head, and the duo from EgonLab, portraying a trendy couple, perhaps on their way home from Marais gay bar Cox.
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“We are all a big family — creating, doing the same job but in a different way,” Weinsanto said backstage.
Known for his cabaret proclivities, the designer kicked off Paris Fashion Week in campy, sometimes kinky, fashion, a few models wearing little more than a body stocking and bits of swirling embroidery.
But interspersed between tightly lashed corset dresses and skimpy jersey tops were terrific coatdresses, which seem to be trending in Europe. His were sleeveless and segmented with zippers, therefore transformable.
One also noticed an abundance of neutrals instead of his usual pink and purple, including a jersey dress in Panton-esque brown swirls; filmy knits in a similar pattern for shirts and skirts with snap-off features, and tiny tailored jackets teamed with jeans or high-waist pants.
Weinsanto has a showman’s heart, and a business brain, explaining how he’s upgrading his fabrics and ramping up his eco credentials.
Not forgetting his metaverse readiness: Right after his show, some guests decamped directly to his after party in the same venue, the pitch black-room lit up with holograms of the digital collection he created for South Korean girl group Lightsum that will drop as NFTs in mid-October.
Launch Gallery: Weinsanto RTW Spring 2023