Daphne Guinness looked on approvingly as the model in 12-inch platforms suddenly moved her palms from her hips to the floor and executed a backflip with the ease of a champion gymnast. Not even a wobble.
“It was so brilliant,” said Guinness, famous for her heelless hoof shoes. “I’ve done (a flip) in shoes, but forward, not backward.”
The model’s mound of blonde hair was frizzed out, her lipstick was smudged and her strong limbs were poured into a psychedelic print bodysuit. The small crowd gathered in a small subterranean bar on the Left Bank howled with delight.
Welcome to the first fashion happening of Paris Fashion Week thanks to 26-year-old newcomer Victor Weinsanto, whose background in ballet — and as a key deputy of Jean Paul Gaultier in mounting his “Fashion Freak Show” cabaret — came through in a fun and energetic display that had models vamping, vogueing and shrieking with laughter in their flashy, clinging party togs.
Weinsanto went all out with a short film depicting a fashion shoot in a weathered Art Nouveau disco, cuing up to have the protagonist in a green satin leisure suit pursuing her prey with a Polaroid on the pink runway.
The collection was an ode to Nina Hagen, whose punk spirit was present in the overdone makeup, big hair and the sassy, savage confidence of the models. The clinging jersey dresses, barely here skirts and bra tops were certainly outré, but done with great finesse and tongue firmly in cheek.
The young Frenchman had the good fortune to catch the sharp eye of Adrian Joffe, who offered him the Dover Street Market Paris showroom on the Place Vendôme to sell his spring collection. With theatrics or not, there’s no mistaking Weinsanto cuts a mean pair of pants. Add one of his sexy jersey tops, shiny heels and you’re off to the newest club that’s opening up.
Launch Gallery: Victor Weinsanto RTW Spring 2021