A Weekend of Wine, Gardens, and All Things Mediterranean Revival in Santa Barbara
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I hope the genius who coined Santa Barbara "The American Riviera" gets a nickel every time I call this most beautiful of California coastal cities by its tagline. Because they were right; Santa Barbara is a gorgeous testimony to the mesmerizing power of Mediterranean (Revival) architecture.
Some palm trees and the cobalt blue Pacific Ocean don't hurt, either. And in doing the OG Riviera one better, Santa Barbara is one of the most fun, high-quality wine towns there is. I bet Gerald and Sara Murphy could have used a good beach taco and pour of natural wine. Here's my favorite way to drink in the local vintages and the views in glorious Santa Barbara.
But First, Wine
The buzzy nexus of pours from this exciting wine region is the Funk Zone, formerly home to industrial buildings on the wrong side of the tracks (literally) but now home to more than 15 tasting rooms in a 10-block radius. Start with the Riesling at Municipal Winemakers while snagging some Vitamin D the natural way on their outdoor patio. Then pay homage to circa-1962 Santa Barbara Winery with a glass on their outdoor patio and a cheese plate from Pierre Lafond Market & Deli.
And Then, Food (and More Wine)
Power up with local Dart Coffee Co. brewing and bready wonders at Helena Avenue Bakery. Head to the Santa Barbara Public Market for Corazón Cocina’s superb spread of ceviches and tacos. There’s not just fertile wine country out there—there’s farmland out there. So make the most of it with farm-forward restaurants like Satellite, a wine bar and vegetarian restaurant in the heart of downtown, and Bibi Ji for chef Jessi Singh’s contemporary Indian, which pairs perfectly with standout local labels like Lo-Fi and Storm Wines.
Historic Mini-Hops
It’s easy to get swoony and captivated by the overall beauty of the city’s wealth of historic Mediterranean Revival architecture; get the real story and take in the myriad of examples with the experts at Architectural Foundation of Santa Barbara, which runs private walking tours by appointment for groups up to 10 people (arrangements should be made at least two weeks in advance and are subject to docent availability). To schedule a tour, email info@afsb.org or call 805-965-6307.
Hotel Californian designer Martyn Lawrence Bullard wasn’t shy about sharing his favorite cultural hideout in the city: the Mission Museum at Old Mission Santa Barbara. “It’s like stepping back in time,” he says of the “Queen of the Missions” founded by Spanish Franciscans in 1786 (the current buildings date to the early 19thcentury). “You really feel the spirit and history of old Santa Barbara,” he says.
For a new Santa Barbara vision, check out local-born architect (and author) Jeff Shelton's buildings that reimagine Spanish Colonial Revival wildly and compellingly. The Jeff Shelton Architecture Tour is a self-guided walk among eight of his buildings in the downtown area (download the map here).
The Shopping Edit
First stop: Santa Barbara design legend Raoul Textiles. The curated rooms of this workshop/showroom hybrid are IRL look books for the art of California living in a Mediterranean Revival world. Keep an eye peeled for this season's new wool-linen stripes, plus the workshop's latest Engle & Deutch armchair, based on a 19th-century French side chair (open by appointment Monday-Friday).
You won’t mind the drive, because it ends up at Montecito Country Mart, and you’ll want the car for your shopping brags. Look for favorites like Clare V. and Poppy Store, and new arrivals Doen and a pop-up shop with Heather Taylor Home. Leave time for pizza (and more wine?) at Bettina.
Sleep in Splendor
Who better than Martyn Lawrence Bullard to envision a new vision for the American Riviera? That’s the magic spun at Hotel Californian, which blends Spanish Colonial Revival architecture with Moorish-influenced interiors (both California design crazes in the 1920s and one of the designer’s trademark gestures). Here, black and white geometries play with emerald and saffron pops of color, Moroccan tiles lead down winding paseos, and an oasis of a rooftop pool offers freshwaters and sweeping views over rooftops to the Pacific. The latest: The Society: State & Mason is the hotel’s new, intimate wine tasting room that’s going to be offering classes, winemaker dinners, special events, and more in addition to tastings.
Meanwhile, the 2021 arrival of Palihouse Santa Barbara showcased designer and hotel impresario Avi Brosh’s guestroom-and-suite revival of the Santa Barbara School of the Arts’ circa-1920 landmark building in the historic downtown Presidio neighborhood. It’s all pops of color playing amid the Spanish Colonial Revival, and it’s a stunner.
The Essential Excursion
One cannot—cannot—come to this part of the world and not journey to Montecito to pay homage to the legendary Madame Ganna Walska’s Lotusland, her former home and extraordinary gardens that feature remarkable collections of dry garden plants, including some of the most famous bromeliads in the world. Mark off a half-day for this fabulous pilgrimage—you’ll be so glad you did.
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