Watch: Jack Freestone's First Time Surfing Jaws
Jack Freestone is not known as a big-wave surfer.
An innovative aerialist, a one-time competitive force, a damn fun-to-watch freesurfer – all of those things, and more, could easily be bullet points on his surfing résumé.
But there’s a first time for everything, right?
During the recent opening swell of the season, in which a handful of big-wave chargers welcomed the return of Pe’ahi, Freestone decided to give it a go at the behest of his good friend Albee Layer (who got absolutely pitted on a monster during the session).
On Instagram, Jack wrote:
“After years of @live.fast.die.old telling me to come to jaws I finally pulled the trigger and what an experience it was!! So good to watch this guy do what he does best which is go absolutely ballistic in the ocean. From 2ft - 50 ft his probably one of if not the best in the world. It was also epic to just catch up with him and some old friends and also make some new friends. Life is good”
He also posted a handful of clips from the session, including one which sent him over the handlebars and down into the depths – “Getting a nice adjustment from Jaws chiropractic,” he wrote.
And his first wave ever out at Jaws – a not-so-small bomb in which he successfully makes the drop, cruises to the bottom, has a casual lookback at the tube, then kicks out.
Not bad for a first-timer.
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