Wait, So Do These Trendy Collagen Serums Actually Work?

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Collagen is a buzzy skincare ingredient, but what is it exactly? And, do all those trendy collagen face serums really work? First, let’s start with the basics. Collagen is one of the main structural proteins in our body. We have it in our tendons, blood vessels, tissue, and organs. In the skin, collagen provides support that is important for tightness and firmness, explains dermatologist Michelle Henry, MD. Think of collagen as dense filler, like the supportive memory foam in a pillow. This foamy collagen, along with elastin (a rubber band-like connective tissue), keeps your face looking taut and youthful. Collagen and elastin are naturally made by the body, but over time we start to lose both. And the clock is ticking. “It’s thought that collagen decreases by 1 percent each year after the age of 20,” says Dr. Henry. “Our natural collagen starts to break down intrinsically because of aging, and also due to extrinsic factors like UV exposure, pollution, and oxidative stress.”

Now, will applying collagen topically in your skincare routine replenish your natural collagen to fight off laxity and fine lines? Ehh, not exactly. “Topical collagen is a very large molecule that’s too big to absorb into the skin,” explains Dr. Henry. In order to stimulate collagen production deep in the dermal layer, a collagen serum has to contain peptides, or tiny amino acid sequences that are components of collagen, says Dr. Henry. "These peptides are small enough to penetrate into skin and signal the body to produce more collagen and elastin.” Here's a sneak peak of the best collagen serums that approved by Dr. Henry and dermatologist Marisa Garshick, MD:

Keep reading for the full list of best collagen serums of 2024 that use peptides, amino acids, or plant-derived vegan collagen to prompt collagen production and plump your skin.

Barrier+ Triple Lipid + Collagen Activating Serum

Not only does this face serum contains six different collagen-boosting peptides and 2 percent niacinamide (a soothing antioxidant that helps to improve skin texture and tone), it’s also infused with lipids and ceramides to protect the skin barrier. Dr. Garshick says it's "especially great for someone with dry or sensitive skin" and I personally love it for the cold, winter months.

• Skin types: Dry, combo, sensitive

• Size: 1 oz/30ml

• Cruelty-free? Yes

Glowing customer review: "This serum has kept my skin dewy and clear for the 3 weeks I’ve been using it. I have acne–prone skin, and it hasn’t broken me out. Fantastic!”

Regenerist Collagen Peptide 24 Serum

Olay is an OG drugstore skincare brand that is trusted by dermatologists, including our experts. “This is a great option that has pentapeptide-4, a well-researched peptide, soothing niacinamide, and a science-backed formula,” says Dr. Garshick. The result? Skin that's smoother, firmer, and more hydrated.

• Skin types: Dry, combo, sensitive

• Size: 1.3 fl. oz.

• Cruelty-free? No

Glowing customer review: “This is gentle on my sensitive skin, which is why I like a peptide product better than a retinol, especially for the area around my eyes. And, I’ve noticed my lines are smoothing out.”

Firming & Plumping Vegan Collagen Prep Serum

Full disclosure: I’m obsessed with this stuff, and the hydrating, gel-like serum is a cult fave among other beauty editors too. It contains excellent skin-plumping humectants (including glycerin and a plant-derived hyaluronic acid) along with brightening botanicals and vegan collagen. “This is essentially a plant-derived collagen that may be sourced from a genetically modified yeast or bacteria,” says Dr. Garshick.

• Skin types: Dry, combo, sensitive, dull

• Size: 1 fl oz

• Cruelty-free? Yes

Glowing customer review: “I love how plump and radiant my skin looks after using this consistently. It’s also a great primer under makeup–no pilling or stickiness or scent.”

Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster

This impressive collagen-stimulating formula boasts eight types of science-backed peptide that are proven to be helpful at firming the face and softening fine lines and wrinkles. It’s also got excellent hydrators to plump skin too. And because the serum is considered a "booster" it can be mixed with you favorite face moisturizer, tinted moisturizer, or skin tint, or layered with other products like a regular face serum.

• Skin types: Dry, combo, oily, sensitive, acne-prone, dull

• Size: 0.67 fl. oz.

• Cruelty-free? Yes

Glowing customer review: "I'm obsessed with this. The milky gel serum made my skin feel plumper and more moisturized instantly. I use it morning and night and my face has never looked better."

Rapid Collagen Infusion

This face serum is infused with collagen-boosting amino acids, hydrating glycerin and sodium PCA, and a blend of botanical extracts that are rich in antioxidants. The result? A formula that supports collagen synthesis to smooth forehead wrinkles, crow's feet (yes, you can use it around your eyes), and smile lines with continued use. It's also incredibly hydrating, so it my testing experience it makes skin instantly softer and plumper which is great for pre-makeup application.

• Skin types: Dry, combo, dull

• Size: 1 fl oz.

• Cruelty-free? Yes

Glowing customer review: “I was honestly considering Botox, but after discovering this, I think I can hold off for a bit! This made my face feel soft and smooth, and after using it for awhile, it immensely helps with lines and wrinkles.”

Collagen Peptide Serum

At just $13, this face serum is a major value. It contains Matrixyl 3000 (a patented combination of two proven collagen-boosting peptides), as well as multiple other peptides, and excellent hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and shea butter extract. In my testing experience, it's just as effective as other collagen serums that are five times the price.

• Skin types: Dry, combo, oily, dull

• Size: 1 fl oz

• Cruelty-free? Yes

Glowing customer review: “This serum is impressive. It works so much better than a more expensive collagen product that I bought recently. I’m blown away by how much hydration and plumping this gives my skin, and you can’t beat the price. Trust me, I’ve looked!”

Genius Liquid Collagen

Yes, this collagen serum is pricey, but the countless 5-star ratings prove that it's worth the $$. This golden formula is infused with microalgae oil that’s high in essential omega-3 fatty acids, plus Algenist’s patented algae-derived alguronic acid that hydrates skin. It also contains plant-derived collagen sourced from corn, soy, and wheat proteins that structurally mimic animal-derived collagen to firm and smooth skin.

• Skin types: Dry, combo, dull

• Size: 1 fl oz

• Cruelty-free? No

Glowing customer review: “This is like liquid gold in a bottle. It feels like a lightweight oil, yet it’s really fast absorbing and makes my skin look more radiant.”

Super Collagen Supreme

In addition to moisturizing olive oil and collagen-boosting dipeptide-8, this face serum contains an interesting botanical ingredient: tremella fuciformis polysaccharide that’s sourced from snow mushrooms. “A polysaccharide is a complex sugar, like hyaluronic acid, that’s an effective humectant,” explains Dr. Henry. The ultra hydrating combo of olive oil and tremella fuciformis polysaccharide make this a great choice for anyone with dry, dehydrated skin.

• Skin types: Dry, combo

• Size: 1.6 fl oz.

• Cruelty-free? No

Glowing customer review: “The consistency is almost like water, so it really absorbs into my skin, leaving no stickiness or residue, so I can use it under makeup. I can attest to the fact that it makes a noticeable difference in the texture and quality of my skin’s appearance.”

FIRMx Collagen Serum

This serum boasts seven different forms of collagen in its formula–a mix of hydrolyzed collagen, plant-based collagen, and marine collagen. As I mentioned earlier, when it comes to collagen ingredients, the verdict is still out on whether or not these molecules actually penetrate the skin to stimulate collagen production, but this formula also contains an array of excellent peptides and amino acids to do heavy lifting in the firming and smoothing department.

• Skin types: Dry, combo, dull

• Size: 1 fl oz

• Cruelty-free? No

Glowing customer review: “I’ve been using this serum for 3 years and always come back to it because it multi-tasks by moisturizing, smoothing, and firming! The results truly become obvious after about two weeks, and the benefits get better the longer you use it.”

Smoothing Collagen Serum

“This face serum is a good alternative for someone who can’t tolerate a retinoid,” says Dr. Garshick. “It has a bio-engineered, collagen-identical peptide, as well as ceramides to moisturize the skin barrier, and plant-based antioxidants that help prevent the breakdown of your body’s natural collagen.” Basically, it's a great multitasking anti-aging serum that firms, smooths, hydrates, and protects skin.

• Skin types: Dry, combo, oily, acne-prone, dull, sensitive

• Size: 1 fl oz

• Cruelty-free? Yes

Glowing customer review: “I’ve used other TruSkin products, and started using this new peptide serum. I’m happy with it so far: no scent, super lightweight, and doesn’t make my face feel sticky.”

Do collagen serums really work?

Whether or not collagen serums really work largely depends on the types of ingredients used in a particular formula. “Collagen is a big molecule that can’t get through the skin, so skincare formulas use smaller components of proteins to stimulate collagen production,” says Dr. Garshick. “This is where ingredients like peptides, hydrolyzed collagen, amino acids, and plant-derived or bio-engineered collagen come into the picture. These are essentially smaller protein fragments that can penetrate the skin barrier and tell the body to produce more collagen.” Bottom line: If your collagen serum contains peptides, hydrolyzed collagen, amino acids, and/or plant-derived or bio-engineered collagen, chances are it will be effective at smoothing, firming, and hydrating your skin.

Which is better: collagen serum or retinol serum?

Retinol serums and creams are proven to stimulate collagen production in the skin over time, but they can be irritating for a lot of people. A collagen serum typically contains peptides— generally non-irritating ingredients that help also help to stimulate collagen production with continued use. “Collagen serums can be an excellent option for someone who has sensitive skin and can’t tolerate a retinol product,” says Dr. Garshick.

How to choose the best collagen serum:

Look for a formula with peptides and antioxidants.

As a reminder, collagen itself isn't the secret to an effective collagen serum, it's peptides. Look for ingredients like polypeptide-1, hexapeptide, and dipeptide-5 on the ingredients list—they are all scientifically proven collagen-boosters. Also good to keep an eye out for? Antioxidant ingredients (from botanical extracts, niacinamide, or olive oil extract), since they can help prevent the breakdown of natural collagen in your skin.

Consider a barrier-friendly formula.

According to our experts, the best collagen serums provide strong barrier support to safeguard your natural reserves of collagen. This means they likely contains ingredients like ceramides, lipids, and humectants that protect and moisturize the skin, so keep an eye out for those on your formula's ingredients list as well.

Meet the experts:

• Michelle Henry, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York, NY and the CEO and founder of Skin & Aesthetic Surgery of Manhattan.

• Marisa Garshick, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York and New Jersey at MDCS Dermatology.

Why trust Cosmopolitan?

Gina Way is an editor, copywriter, and professional skincare junkie. Her work has been featured in Cosmopolitan, Harper’s Bazaar, Oprah Daily, Allure, Marie Claire, and more. Follow Gina on Instagram.

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