Vitelli RTW Spring 2023

There’s a radical approach in Vitelli’s ongoing quest to explore the power of craft, handiwork providing more sensations than any seasonal theme.

Paradoxically for spring the additional fabric research didn’t come with progressive silhouettes. They were rather unfussy, replacing the fascinating bulbous experimentation of past seasons.

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Mauro Simionato and his team didn’t bother to restate their genderless thinking, either. Clothing did apply to both, but were of the “borrow from your pal’s wardrobe” kind rather than overtly genderless.

Almost ordinary — as in loose jacquard knitted tops and bottoms with a surfer whiff; shirtdresses left unbuttoned to reveal layered mini frocks; denim shorts and skirts both covered just under the belt by the patented Doomboh Mesh regenerative textile — the collection conceived for the “cosmic youth” hinged on ‘70s raver garb of the arty-crafty type worn by attendees at the concert-slash-fundraiser “The 14 Hour Technicolor Dream” in London.

It lacked the edge of previous collections, yet it was probably Vitelli’s next step toward maturity. When much of what the brand stands for needs no explanation, it’s an accomplishment.

Launch Gallery: Vitelli RTW Spring 2023

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