In a joyful mix of genres, Victoria Feldman and Tomas Berzins set their coed collection against the backdrop of a giant inflatable pyramid by Cyril Lancelin in the courtyard of La Caserne, a new eco-incubator for fashion and luxury in the 10th arrondissement. The installation was echoed on the runway, and Edward Crutchley’s art featured in prints and on quirky leather accessories, while a performance by buzzy French musician Lewis OfMan set the eclectic tone.
The look: Now in their third season offering only fully reversible designs, the design duo returned to the runway with a confident strut, offering a colorful explosion of two-tone neon tailoring with long fringe details that swayed. While the brighter designs took the limelight, it was with a more neutral palette mixing utilitarian and streetwear influences that their plays on versatility were most skillful.
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Quote of note: “It’s sexy but still masculine,” summed up Berzins.
Key pieces: The voluminous trenchcoats, mirroring the walls of the venue in shades of gray and beige, were overlaid with pleated, embroidered tulle on the reverse, adding a touch of romanticism. Their open shoulders added further versatility, as they were able to be worn sleeveless or cinched at the waist as a dress. Vivid appliqué shirtdresses with pointy 1970s-style collars and leather cross-body bags painted with the graduations of a sunset were among further standouts.
Takeaway: The sun beamed into the courtyard, a stroke of luck for Feldman and Berzins, as rain is forecast for much of the week. “We didn’t have a plan B,” said Feldman backstage before the show. Their sunny outlook paid off, and shone through in this upbeat offering.
Launch Gallery: Victoria/Tomas RTW Spring 2022